My Picks: Vintages Release ─ January 19 2013

When this week’s release catalog arrived in the mailbox, I confess that I was excited.  The theme?  Spanish Wines.  Regular readers know that I have a soft spot for the traditional wines of the Iberian Peninsula.  Carly Simon began singing in my head.  Anticipation…is keeping me waiting. 

Ah, but the subtitle tells the tale:  Span the style spectrum.  Turns out that this is code for a bunch of wines with “international” grape varieties.  It’s the usual suspects:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, even Syrah, none of which I associate with Spain in particular.  I’m guessing that Vintages has concluded that the only way to turn its customers onto Spanish wines is to give us the Spanish wines that are much like wines from anywhere else.  Boring.

But there are some Spanish wines that fall into the traditional category and 4 of them (2 whites, 2 reds) are listed below.  Thank goodness for small mercies.

Other than that, there just aren’t that many wines that fit My Picks.  Maybe it’s time for a trip to the SAQ! 

 

Organic

 

 

FATTORIA LA RIPA 2009, DOCG Chianti Classico (Tuscany); #651596; Price $19.95; 13.0% ABV

A blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Canaiolo (10%).  Aged in oak and then the bottle before release.  Look for typical aromas of cherry, spices, tobacco, and leather.  Made with organic grapes.  It’s perfect with Italian dishes with tomato-based sauces.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites
ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO GODELLO 2010, DO Bierzo (Spain); #308049; Price $13.95; 12.5% ABV
 100% Godello.  Hand-harvested.  (Beppi Crosariol says that hand harvesting is meaningless.  I’m a big fan of Beppi but not of MOG…Material Other than Grapes, which tends to end up in the mix with mechanical harvesting).  Look for tree fruit and minerality.  Ideal as an aperitif.

CUATRO RAYAS VIÑEDOS CENTENARIOS VERDEJO 2011, DO Rueda (Spain); #312900; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Verdejo, indigenous to the Rueda region in north-central Spain.  Fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts.  Left to age on its lees for 4 months.  It’s known for its herbal and nutty aromas and flavours in addition to those of tree fruit.  Ideal with grilled white fish.

Reds 
MARCHESI MAZZEI ZISOLA NERO D'AVOLA 2009, IGT Sicilia (Italy); #303925; Price $25.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Nero d'Avola, it’s indigenous to Sicily.  Handpicked.  Maceration for 14 days.  Aged 10 months in French oak barrels (one-third new) followed by one year of bottle aging.  This is one of those wines made from a lesser-known (and underrated) Italian grape variety.  It’s the Big Easy, ideal with typically spicy Sicilian food.

DON JACOBO RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #313270; Price $17.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Tempranillo (95%) with Garnacha and Mazuelo aka Carignan (10%).  Aged in oak for 14 months and then in bottle before release.  Typical Rioja, which means aromas of cherries, plums, vanilla, with minerality on the palate.  I’d try this with grilled lamb chops.

 

SOLAR DE SAEL CRIANZA MENCÍA 2007, DO Bierzo (Spain); #311902; Price $15.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Mencia, another varietal indigenous to the north-west quadrant of Spain, this time in Bierzo.  Mencia is in vogue at the moment…and deservedly so.  This one’s from old vines.  Aged 12 months in new French and American oak casks.  These are big wines, ideal with a roast beef.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ January 5 2013

Happy New Year!

After Vintages’ excesses of the holiday season, with lots of high-end beverages on offer, the New Year brings one of my favourite releases:  Smart Buys.  Along with 2 of the featured wines, the cover on the Vintages catalogue shows a piggy bank, some loose change on the table, and a pair of wire-rimmed glasses.  The subliminal message is that these are wines that a miser would love.  Well, if the shoe fits…

Despite that, the pickings are a bit slim, with just 1 white and 4 reds.  And nothing organic.  Part of the reason for the smaller selections recently is that the criteria for My Picks are getting a bit “tighter”, with more focus on wines that come in at less than 14.5% alcohol-by-volume and on independent and family-run wineries.  In the case of the latter criteria, it's difficult and sometimes surprising to find out who the real owner of a winery is.

 

 

Off the Beaten Track     

White 

TIKI PINOT GRIS 2011, South Island (New Zealand); #295279; Price $17.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Pinot Gris from a cool climate.  Fermented in stainless steel with cultivated yeasts.  Ideal as a winter aperitif.  Drink now.


Reds

DE MARTINO LEGADO RESERVA CARMENÈRE 2010, DO Maipo Valley (Chile); #236059; Price $16.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Carmènere.  Fermented with indigenous yeasts.  Aged for 14 months in previously used oak barrels.  The bottle is lightweight and made from recycled glass.

M. GASSIER NOSTRE PAIS 2010, AC Costières de Nîmes (Southern Rhone); #295410; Price $18.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (25%), Carignan (25%), Mourvèdre (20%), Cinsault (15%), and Syrah (5%) from the southern Rhone (yes, Costières de Nîmes is part of the southern Rhone, not Languedoc).  Hand harvested.  Aged in French oak barrels for 6 months; half on its lees.  No filtration, so decanting is advised.  Extremely flexible with food, such as roasted or braised lamb, veal, or duck.  From a family-run winery.

DONNACHIARA IRPINIA AGLIANICO 2008, DOC Irpinia (Campania); #262956; Price $18.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Aglianico from Irpinia, the same region that produces DOCG Taurasi.   Aged in oak barrels for 4 months.  An ideal choice with braised game with a mushroom sauce.  Not meant for extended aging, so drink this one now.

COTO DE HAYAS CENTENARIA GARNACHA 2011, DO Campo de Borja (Spain); #94805; Price $17.00; 13.0% ABV
100% Garnacha from Aragon, just southeast of Rioja. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by 4 weeks of maceration on its skins.  Aged 4 months in American oak barrels.  Try it with roast pheasant.

Honourable Mentions

SANTO ASSYRTIKO 2011, PDO Santorini (Greece); #627760; Price $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Assyrtiko, the signature white grape variety from Santorini.  Known for its crisp acidity and minerality.

 

RABL ST-LAURENT 2009, Kamptal (Austria); #301960; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Saint-Laurent.  Similar in style to Pinot Noir and like Pinot Noir it’s a bit fussy about where it’s grown.  Seems most at home in Austria.

 

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ December 8 2012

We arrive at this week’s release at Vintages, the third of 3 with a holiday theme. This one is Fine Wines and Sparklers for Festive Get-Togethers, which makes me think that the marketing folks at Vintages must be getting tired. Blah, humbug! This is the last release before 2013 (or the last release ever if that Mayan calendar is right). Already looking forward to the Smart Buys in the next release.

There are some expensive items again in this release but at least, among the wines, there’s nothing over $100 and just 10 items over $50. Small mercies.

There’s good variety among the sparkling wines but nothing that makes My Picks, although one merits an Honourable Mention.

Of the 8 wines that do make my list, it’s once again the usual suspects who consistently bring value to your table: Italy, southern France, and Spain. Don’t miss the Mencia from Bierzo.

Organic

 

AMASTUOLA PRIMITIVO 2010, IGP Puglia (Italy); #300004; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Primitivo, what the Italians call Zinfandel. Harvested at night to reduce heat stress. Fermented in stainless steel vats with 3 weeks of maceration. Aged in stainless steel tanks with micro-oxygenation. Certified organic grape production.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites
 
ROBERT MONDAVI FUMÉ BLANC 2009, Napa Valley (California); #221887; Price $22.95; 13.9% ABV
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%, sourced from 2 vineyards) and Semillon (10%). Fumé Blanc is a term invented by Robert Mondavi in 1966 to distinguish this dry style from sweeter versions that were then in vogue. 60% barrel fermented. Aged, sur lie, in French oak. Look for tropical and tree fruit flavours with refreshing acidity. Drink within a year.

Reds

E. GUIGAL 2009, AC Crozes-Hermitage (Northern Rhone); #704908; Price $24.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Syrah. Fermented for 3 weeks. Aged 24 months in oak barrels. Look for flavours of cassis and vanilla (from the oak).
 
CHÂTEAU EUGÉNIE CUVÉE RÉSERVÉE DE L'AÏEUL CAHORS 2008, AC Cahors (South West France); #295949; Price $19.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Malbec (85%) and Tannat (15%). Fermentation on its skins for 20 days in stainless steel vats. Aged 18 months in oak barrels (1/3 new). Unfiltered (so decant). Look for red fruit, earthy aromas. (Terre de nos aïeux!) Ideal with a winter lamb or game stew. You can drink this one now or put it in the cellar for the next 10 years.
 
TERREDORA AGLIANICO 2009, IGT Campania (Italy); #602284; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Aglianico. Maceration for 7 days. Aged in a combination of oak and stainless steel tanks. Look for aromas of red berries, violets and meat. Not a BIG Aglianico but ideal with hearty winter fare, such as stews and pasta.
 
BODEGAS DEL ABAD DOM BUENO MENCÍA 2008, DO Bierzo (Spain); #291989; Price $15.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Mencia, a grape that’s indigenous to Bierzo in northwest Spain. Fermented for 10 days in stainless steel tanks; maceration for 20 days. Aged 5 months in American and French oak barrels. Meant for aging. BEST VALUE.
 
LAN CRIANZA 2008, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #166538; Price $15.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Aged in American and French oak barrels for 12 months, then several months in the bottle. Not every pizza wine comes from Italy!
 
LEALTANZA RESERVA 2007, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #208223; Price $19.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for 15 days, plus 10 days maceration. Malolactic conversion in French oak vats. Aged 18 months in French oak casks (1 or 2 years old) and then 3 more months in larger French oak vats. Look for aromas of black fruits, spices, and coffee. The winemakers suggest trying it with salmon.

Honourable Mentions

 NATURA UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2011, Casablanca Valley (Chile); #61895; Price $14.95; 13.5% ABV
Chardonnay... yes but …organic (from Emiliana) and unoaked.

JIM BARRY THE LODGE HILL DRY RIESLING 2011, Clare Valley (Australia); #262469; Price $19.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Riesling from the Clare Valley (one of my favourites), a region known for high acid, steely, minerally Rieslings with citrus and floral aromas. Harvested at night. Capable of cellaring for 5 years.

JACQUES DEPAGNEUX CÔTE DU PY MORGON 2011, AC Beaujolais (France); #299925; Price $18.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Gamay. Morgon is the Beaujolais Cru that has the best capability for aging.

JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE BRUT 2008, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #234161; Price $22.95; 12.0% ABV
A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. As the label says, it’s a sparkling made using the classic method, as in Champagne.

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For Your Next Visit to Monaco

A short film about the wine cellar at the Hotel de Paris in Monaco, courtesy of Michelin.  Not for the 99%.

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Sitting In Judgement

I’ve said it before: finding a perfect match of wine with food is an elusive thing.  But it’s a challenge that sommeliers and foodies love to pursue.  It’s the motivation that drives members of both groups to sign up for the Wine and Food Matching course at Algonquin College in ever larger numbers.

For the final exam of this course, teams of students prepare a food dish and match it with the wine that they think works best.  The teams submit a paper that describes why they chose the food dish, how they chose the matching wine, and why they think this match is the best.

The final exam isn’t just a paper exercise.  The teams must prepare the food dish, either at home beforehand or in the kitchen at Algonquin's Restaurant International, and serve it with their chosen wine to a panel of judges, a la Master Chef.

When the course instructor – Liam Doody – again invited me to be a judge for the final exam on Monday evening, I happily accepted.  (You can read about my previous experiences here.)   Working your way through 15(!) different wine and food matches, put together by teams of students, is a great way to spend a Monday evening.

In return, I only have to offer an opinion, together with my fellow judge, on the merits on each match and award a medal to deserving participants.  My judging partner this time around was fellow sommelier, Éva Nagy, who hangs out at sit. sip. savour. and has a few other irons in the fire.  (My sincere thanks to Éva for supplying a couple of the photos shown below.  Sometimes I get so absorbed in the wine and food that I forget to take a picture!)

After tasting each dish with its matching wine, we awarded "medals" based on the following criteria:

• Gold:  The wine and food pairing adds to the enjoyment of the wine AND the cuisine.

• Silver:  The wine and food pairing adds to either the enjoyment of the wine OR the cuisine, but not both.
• Bronze:  The wine and food pairing does not add to, nor detract from, the enjoyment of either the wine or the cuisine.
• No Certificate:  The wine and food pairing detracts from either, or both, the enjoyment of the wine or the cuisine.

Many things have to come together to receive a gold medal.  The food has to be well prepared.  The wine has to show its best features.  It's not meant to be easy.

Here are the interesting food and wine matches that we sampled and upon which we rendered our verdicts.  Congratulations to all!  (And my apologies to one team of students for which I failed to capture a photo of their entry.  As I said before, sometimes the photos get overlooked in the excitement of judging.)





 

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Guacamole with Domaine de la Chanaise Morgon 2010 

The goal was to fire up the effect of the chilies in the guacamole. 

Mission accomplished.

 

 

 

 

(no photo, sorry)

Crostini, Chèvre, Prosciutto with Bisol Credi Brut Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore NV

Here's a match where texture is everything.  The Prosecco has initial green apple acidity (matching the salty tang of the prosciutto) but finishes with a creamy texture (harmonizing with the creamy chèvre texture).  So absorbing you forget the damn camera!

 

 

 

 

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Mushroom Crostini with Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2011

A classic Old World match with a New World twist.  It's an Earthy Kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cheese Plate (Brie, Cheddar, Parmigiano Reggiano, Danish Blue)

with Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

The contrasting cheese textures and flavours made for a challenging match.

 

 

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Icelandic Lobster Soup with Cave Spring Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Northern Exposure.  A recipe brought back from a recent trip to Iceland (easily the bravest food attempt of the evening) paired with a crisp Niagara white.

 

 

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Potato Leek Soup with House Wine Company Vidal Moscato 2011

When you just gotta have wine with soup.

Soup's earthy flavours meet up with an off-dry fruity white.  Success!

 

 

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Curried Prawns with Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer 2010

A classic match.  The off-dry, oily-textured wine calms the spicy heat of the food.  Just what the doctors ordered.

 

 

 

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Mac + Cheese with Trius Sparkling Brut NV

Mac + Cheese...you've come a long way baby.

Underused with food, this shows just how versatile sparkling can be.  Brut strength!

 

 

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Mac + Cheese Baconator with Nicolas Maillet Macon-Verzé 2009

Acidity of a Bourgogne Chardonnay cuts through the creamy cheese texture while matching the smoke of bacon.

 Doubling down on Mac + Cheese...am I back in university?

 



Photo courtesy of Éva Nagy

 

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Thai Curry Meatballs with Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2011

Sommelier Secret Revealed:  Riesling is THE most food friendly wine and this match shows one reason why:  fruitiness calms the curry spice just enough and fits the coconut milk, ginger, and cilantro flavours like a glove.  Excellent!

  

 

 

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Beef Stew with Bonterra Zinfandel 2010

It's a classic stew with a spicy tomato kick that could overwhelm many wines, but not this organic Zin.

 

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Curried Lentil + Vegetable Stew with Pelee Island Gamay Noir Zweigelt 2010

It's the herbal aromas and flavours in both the wine and the food that makes this match work well.  This lighter-style stew also fits the light-bodied red wine.  An ideal autumn dish.

 

 

 

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Pear Apple Ginger Tart with Woodbridge Moscato 2011

Here's a wonderful tree-fruit flavour match:  pears and apples from the tart, peach from the off-dry wine, and spicy honey elements in both.  Delicious and light!

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Torte Caprese with Amabile Degli Angeli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2007
    OK, full disclosure.  Both judges worked at DiVino Wine Studio as sommeliers-in-training but at different times.  So seeing this rarity (Recioto) wins us over immediately.  Ah, but the match is wonderful, matching 2 Italian classics:  flourless chocolate almond cake from Capri in the south with the medium sweet cherry and chocolate marvel from the north.  Fantastico!



Photo courtesy of Éva Nagy

    

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Bittersweet Chocolate Brownie + Raspberry Port Sauce with Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2010
20 years ago, the rage was chocolate matched with California Cab.  I was never convinced.  But last week I tasted a Douro red with a chocolate dessert.  And now comes Zinfandel with chocolate...makes delicious sense!