Sitting In Judgement

I’ve said it before: finding a perfect match of wine with food is an elusive thing.  But it’s a challenge that sommeliers and foodies love to pursue.  It’s the motivation that drives members of both groups to sign up for the Wine and Food Matching course at Algonquin College in ever larger numbers.

For the final exam of this course, teams of students prepare a food dish and match it with the wine that they think works best.  The teams submit a paper that describes why they chose the food dish, how they chose the matching wine, and why they think this match is the best.

The final exam isn’t just a paper exercise.  The teams must prepare the food dish, either at home beforehand or in the kitchen at Algonquin's Restaurant International, and serve it with their chosen wine to a panel of judges, a la Master Chef.

When the course instructor – Liam Doody – again invited me to be a judge for the final exam on Monday evening, I happily accepted.  (You can read about my previous experiences here.)   Working your way through 15(!) different wine and food matches, put together by teams of students, is a great way to spend a Monday evening.

In return, I only have to offer an opinion, together with my fellow judge, on the merits on each match and award a medal to deserving participants.  My judging partner this time around was fellow sommelier, Éva Nagy, who hangs out at sit. sip. savour. and has a few other irons in the fire.  (My sincere thanks to Éva for supplying a couple of the photos shown below.  Sometimes I get so absorbed in the wine and food that I forget to take a picture!)

After tasting each dish with its matching wine, we awarded "medals" based on the following criteria:

• Gold:  The wine and food pairing adds to the enjoyment of the wine AND the cuisine.

• Silver:  The wine and food pairing adds to either the enjoyment of the wine OR the cuisine, but not both.
• Bronze:  The wine and food pairing does not add to, nor detract from, the enjoyment of either the wine or the cuisine.
• No Certificate:  The wine and food pairing detracts from either, or both, the enjoyment of the wine or the cuisine.

Many things have to come together to receive a gold medal.  The food has to be well prepared.  The wine has to show its best features.  It's not meant to be easy.

Here are the interesting food and wine matches that we sampled and upon which we rendered our verdicts.  Congratulations to all!  (And my apologies to one team of students for which I failed to capture a photo of their entry.  As I said before, sometimes the photos get overlooked in the excitement of judging.)





 

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Guacamole with Domaine de la Chanaise Morgon 2010 

The goal was to fire up the effect of the chilies in the guacamole. 

Mission accomplished.

 

 

 

 

(no photo, sorry)

Crostini, Chèvre, Prosciutto with Bisol Credi Brut Prosecco Valdobbiadene Superiore NV

Here's a match where texture is everything.  The Prosecco has initial green apple acidity (matching the salty tang of the prosciutto) but finishes with a creamy texture (harmonizing with the creamy chèvre texture).  So absorbing you forget the damn camera!

 

 

 

 

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Mushroom Crostini with Kim Crawford Pinot Noir 2011

A classic Old World match with a New World twist.  It's an Earthy Kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cheese Plate (Brie, Cheddar, Parmigiano Reggiano, Danish Blue)

with Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

The contrasting cheese textures and flavours made for a challenging match.

 

 

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Icelandic Lobster Soup with Cave Spring Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Northern Exposure.  A recipe brought back from a recent trip to Iceland (easily the bravest food attempt of the evening) paired with a crisp Niagara white.

 

 

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Potato Leek Soup with House Wine Company Vidal Moscato 2011

When you just gotta have wine with soup.

Soup's earthy flavours meet up with an off-dry fruity white.  Success!

 

 

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Curried Prawns with Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer 2010

A classic match.  The off-dry, oily-textured wine calms the spicy heat of the food.  Just what the doctors ordered.

 

 

 

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Mac + Cheese with Trius Sparkling Brut NV

Mac + Cheese...you've come a long way baby.

Underused with food, this shows just how versatile sparkling can be.  Brut strength!

 

 

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Mac + Cheese Baconator with Nicolas Maillet Macon-Verzé 2009

Acidity of a Bourgogne Chardonnay cuts through the creamy cheese texture while matching the smoke of bacon.

 Doubling down on Mac + Cheese...am I back in university?

 



Photo courtesy of Éva Nagy

 

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Thai Curry Meatballs with Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2011

Sommelier Secret Revealed:  Riesling is THE most food friendly wine and this match shows one reason why:  fruitiness calms the curry spice just enough and fits the coconut milk, ginger, and cilantro flavours like a glove.  Excellent!

  

 

 

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Beef Stew with Bonterra Zinfandel 2010

It's a classic stew with a spicy tomato kick that could overwhelm many wines, but not this organic Zin.

 

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Curried Lentil + Vegetable Stew with Pelee Island Gamay Noir Zweigelt 2010

It's the herbal aromas and flavours in both the wine and the food that makes this match work well.  This lighter-style stew also fits the light-bodied red wine.  An ideal autumn dish.

 

 

 

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Pear Apple Ginger Tart with Woodbridge Moscato 2011

Here's a wonderful tree-fruit flavour match:  pears and apples from the tart, peach from the off-dry wine, and spicy honey elements in both.  Delicious and light!

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Torte Caprese with Amabile Degli Angeli Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2007
    OK, full disclosure.  Both judges worked at DiVino Wine Studio as sommeliers-in-training but at different times.  So seeing this rarity (Recioto) wins us over immediately.  Ah, but the match is wonderful, matching 2 Italian classics:  flourless chocolate almond cake from Capri in the south with the medium sweet cherry and chocolate marvel from the north.  Fantastico!



Photo courtesy of Éva Nagy

    

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Bittersweet Chocolate Brownie + Raspberry Port Sauce with Cline Ancient Vines Zinfandel 2010
20 years ago, the rage was chocolate matched with California Cab.  I was never convinced.  But last week I tasted a Douro red with a chocolate dessert.  And now comes Zinfandel with chocolate...makes delicious sense!

 

Judgement at Algonquin

Of all the ways that I can think of spending a Monday evening, judging 13 different wine and food matches, put together by students of the Wine and Food Matching course at Algonquin College, ranks high on my list.  All that’s required in return is that I offer my opinion on the merits on each match and award a medal to deserving participants.  Easy peasy.

So when the course instructor – Liam Doody – again invited me to be one of the judges for the Wine and Food Matching final exam, I happily accepted, because not only is it fun but it means I didn’t screw it up the last time.  (You can read about my previous experience here.)

For the final exam of the Wine and Food Matching course, teams of students prepare a food dish and match it with the wine that they think works best.  The teams submit a paper that describes why they chose the food dish, how they chose the matching wine, and why they think this match is the best. 

The final exam isn’t just a paper exercise.  The teams must prepare the food dish, either at home beforehand or in the kitchen at Algonquin's Restaurant International, and serve it with their chosen wine for judging by recognized experts...like me.

After tasting each dish with its matching wine, the judges award "medals" based on the following criteria:

• Gold:
The wine and food pairing adds to the enjoyment of the wine AND the cuisine.

• Silver:
The wine and food pairing adds to either the enjoyment of the wine OR the cuisine, but not both.

• Bronze:
The wine and food pairing does not add to, nor detract from, the enjoyment of either the wine or the cuisine.

• No Certificate:
The wine and food pairing detracts from either, or both, the enjoyment of the wine or the cuisine.

My judging partner this time around was fellow sommelier, Geoffrey Skeggs, a man with fingers in many pies.  He founded the Beer course and the Whiskey course at Algonquin College and has his own company, Zymurgy Wines and Beers.  Geoffrey was also the judge when I completed the Wine and Food Matching course.  (Really, no hard feelings about that Silver Medal, Geoffrey.)  Geoffrey has considerably more judging experience than I do and it was a great evening as he brought his experience to the table, literally.  

Here are the interesting food and wine matches that we sampled and upon which we rendered our verdicts.  Outstanding efforts!

Mexican Vietnamese Summer Rolls with Cono Sur Viognier 2011
Pacific Rim 3-part harmony makes for a delicious app

Aloo Tikki with Studert-Pruem Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spaetlese 2007
Delicious Indian spice mellowed by soothing Mosel Riesling
Oui, aloo? Oui aloo!

Chicken Jalfrezi with Konzelmann Pinot Blanc 2010
A classic Indian dish matched with an underrated crisp summer wine...refreshing!

Carrot Ginger Soup with Toasted Head Chardonnay 2011
Rich soup meets richer Chardonnay...Trump that!

Roquefort and Green Apple Tart with Gisselbrecht Riesling 2010
This food-friendly Riesling hits the right notes with the roquefort...
...and the green apples...
...and the walnut crust. 

Cauliflower with Bechamel Sauce and added Gruyere Cheese with Collavini Prosecco NV
A surprisingly good match that fit the definition for a Gold Medal: each makes the other better

Gourmet Mac & Cheese with Sileni Pinot Noir 2011
You know what happens when you're 25 minutes late delivering your dish to the judge?
He forgets to take a photo. :-(  But he doesn't forget to taste...top-notch comfort food.

Spiced Flank Steak with Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve 2009
Big Chewy Steak meets Big Chewy Wine
Who says there's no such thing as Canadian cuisine?

Greek Ribs with Clos La Coutale Cahors 2010
This rubbed me the right way.

BBQ Korean Beef with Red Knot Shiraz 2010
Classic combo...marinated grilled beef with a big bold Aussie Shiraz.  Always delicious.

Spetzofai, a classic Greek dish (Spicy sausages with tomato sauce and peppers) with Papaioannou Agiorgitiko 2007
There's a reason why regional dishes and wines work so well together...centuries of experience.  And it doesn't break the bank.

Pavlova with Bottega Petalo Il Vino dell'Amore Moscato NV
Wow...after all that meat this was a real treat.
A light refreshing dessert with a light refreshing sparkling.  I'm still dancing.

Pecan Pie with Yalumba Museum Reserve Muscat NV
Stunning!   It makes you want a whole pie and a bottle all to yourself.
Flavours and textures keep sending you back and forth between the pie and the wine.
Best in show!

                                                                         

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