Farewell to the Oughts...Naughts...Oh Ohs...whatever!

As we enter a new decadem (if we say millennium, why not decadem?), Decanter has posted an extensive summary of studies that show the health benefits and hazards of drinking wine for 36 different conditions, from cancers to aging to asthma. 

Being a "glass is half-full" guy, I say keep drinking...in moderation...into 2010!

And thanks for reading my blog!

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Pollo alla Cacciatora & Barbera del Monferrato

I found an easy recipe for this classic dish (aka chicken cacciatore) in Massimo Capra’s book, One Pot Italian Cooking. Cacciatore means “hunter style” (BTW, in case you’re wondering why I’d make a poultry dish right after Christmas, it’s because we don’t eat Christmas turkey in our house.) I braised the chicken legs and vegetables, and then stewed them with white wine, chicken stock, tomatoes and peppers. The stewing process softened the acidity of the tomatoes, and the various flavours blend.

For the wine, I wanted a medium-bodied red, from Italy of course. I rounded up the usual suspects: Sangiovese, Bardolino, and Barbera. I have a Barbera that I’ve wanted to try: Barbera del Monferrato DOC 2007, 13.5% ABV, made by Azienda Agricola Nuova Cappelletta in Vignale Monferrato (Piedmont). It’s certified Biodynamic! Aromas of dark cherry, plum, and raspberry, with floral, tobacco and dried herb notes. Medium-bodied, fresh and vibrant flavours with lighter-than-expected acidity and light tannins. It’s very smooth and round, which actually makes it a perfect compliment to the blended flavours of the pollo alla cacciatora.

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That's One Small Step for a Man

One of the things I enjoy most about wine is matching it with food. And when you look at various wine and sommelier programs, courses on wine and food matching are always at the top of the popularity list. For me, learning about matching tastes and textures, intensity and persistency, finding complementing and contrasting matches – it put some structure to something that had been, for many years, either instinctive or simply based on what various experts said was “correct”.

When I took my food and wine matching course (part of becoming a sommelier), one of the things that struck me was that students and instructors who also cooked were much better at coming up with good matches than we winos were. Of course, to do a good job at matching wine with food, you have to know the ingredients, dominant flavours, and cooking method. It makes even more sense that if you put the dish together, you have that much better understanding of those elements.

Now, in our house, we’ve always kept the wine and food duties strictly divided. My wife, Michèle, does the cooking. She loves to cook and she does it extraordinarily well...that’s an understatement. I’ve always been Mr Wine; rarely have I stepped into the kitchen. So when I decided to propose to Michèle that I prepare one meal a week…stepping onto her turf…I wasn’t sure what the reaction would be. (Well, I’m sure you women out there are way ahead of me at this point.) She was thrilled!

So, from time to time in this blog, I’ll talk about dishes that I’ve prepared and the matching wine I selected. Don’t worry; this isn’t turning into some sort of "Julie & Julia" thing.  First up:

Orecchiette Pasta with Artichoke Hearts and Bacon 
There’s no sauce involved here and the dominant flavours are the artichokes, bacon, and cheese. Artichokes are notoriously difficult to match with wine because of their high natural acidity; the fat from the bacon helps offset that acidity. The bacon, garlic, and onion are sliced into small pieces so they tend to lodge into the ear-shaped pasta; all the flavours come through in each bite. Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano is stirred in at the last minute.

A light-bodied, low-tannin red with good acidity (Valpolicella or Bardolino) could work, but because of the artichokes, I think no tannins are best. Orecchiette pasta comes from Puglia, so that led me to consider white wine from the south of Italy, maybe Greco di Tufo or Falanghina. But these can be hard to find so I went with something from up north: Collalto Pinot Grigio 2008, IGT Delle Venezie, 13% ABV, made by Azienda Agricola Conte Collalto in Susegana. Aromas of lime, green apple, and pear, then tropical fruit; floral notes and minerality. A cut above the oceans of banal Pinot Grigio that are out there. Medium-bodied and just the right level of acidity for the artichokes. A good match!

Oh yes...the dish was delicious.

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Digging the Dirt on Terroir

In a recent post about Biodynamics, I wrote that organic grape growers focus on improving soil health, which makes their grapes more reflective of terroir. Well, there’s more to the story.

First, what is terroir? There’s no official definition, but this French term often is translated as “sense of place” and refers to the holistic influence of:

• geology (soil, rocks, minerals)
• topography (altitude, slope, exposure)
• hydrology (water supply & drainage)
• climate (sunlight, temperature, rainfall, sunlight)

How these natural factors interact can contribute significantly to the wine’s aromas, tastes, and textures, depending on the approach of the winemaker. Some winemakers follow the philosophy of having the influence of terroir expressed as much as possible in the wine. Other winemakers decide to wipe out much of the subtleties of terroir, often to match the wine to popular taste.

In response to the post, Liam commented, “Some people think soil has nothing to do with it,” and shared a link to a Decanter article (US geologists challenge 'gout de terroir'). The article briefly summarized a half-day session entitled Terroir -- The Relationship of Geology, Soils, Hydrology, and Climate to Wine at the 2009 Annual Meeting of the Geological Society of America. The session featured 12 presentations, concluding with “Winetasting of Terroir Wines”. (Good on these researchers for their dedication to more fieldwork!)

After reviewing the presentation summaries, it seems to me that the researchers agree that terroir exists and influences a wine, but “how” this happens is very complex and, they admit, not yet well-enough understood. The researcher who got the most attention from Decanter, Alex Maltman from Wales, debunks the notion that the taste of minerality in wine relates directly to the minerals in the soil being absorbed through the vines root structure. He does not argue that wine drinkers don’t perceive “minerality” in wine, only that we don't taste minerals from the soil itself.

Chablis is an oft-cited example of a wine whose mineral character matches the soil in which it grows. Chablis vines grow in a mixture of limestone and clay on top of the Kimmeridgean geological formation composed of fossilized oyster shells. This geology has long been reputed to be the cause of Chablis’ traditional minerality and steely, flinty character. The geologists’ work indicates that the source of Chablis’ character is far more complex than the geology alone.

Of course, this is consistent with the source of almost all other aromas and flavours in wine. (We may perceive citrus aromas and flavours in Riesling, but that’s not because the winegrower is spraying lemon juice in the vineyard!) Wines (through terroir, viticulture, and vinification) can express an incredible array of aromatic molecules. Researchers are just at the beginning in understanding how terroir makes its contribution. There are even researchers in France (!) who are working on making a synthetic wine, bypassing the grape entirely.

Where does that leave us with the organic and Biodynamic growers who place such importance on improving the quality of soil in the vineyard? It is important but, no doubt, I am guilty of an oversimplification in stating previously that, “Grapes get a lot of their taste from the type of soil that the vine grows in.” The wine’s character depends on much more than just the soil in which the grapes grow. The very complex interaction among geology, topography, hydrology and climate, along with viticulture techniques and vinification methods, all contribute to the wine’s characteristics. Which of these is the pre-eminent factor, or if there is even a factor that is consistently pre-eminent, remains for the researchers to work out.

If you’re interested in learning more about terroir, I highly recommend Jamie Goode’s excellent articles:

• Mechanisms of Terroir
• Terroir: muddy thinking about the soil
• Terroir Revisited: Towards a Working Definition

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Silver Lining

I have a confession to make. I used to be a bit of a trophy-hunter for wines. You know, attracted by the big names…big scores from Parker and Wine Spectator…having bragging rights for the famous labels that I tried. But something very interesting happened in my sommelier courses: we tasted many excellent wines in the $20 to $50 range. Now my fun is in finding good wines at moderate prices. And the timing couldn’t be better.

The Great Recession has kicked the stuffing out of the market for high-end wines. Decanter – quoting a report from Silicon Valley Bank’s Wine Division (a bank with a wine division…how great) – says that, for many wineries, $50 bottles are now “permanently” out of the question. The bank’s report says that the market for fine wine (more than $20) dropped 11 percent in the first half of 2009 and that we’ll see a lot more wines at less than $50. In another report, Decanter quotes one vintner, “The dead zone is the US$50-100 price bracket.”

Meanwhile, Decanter also reports that 2009 Bordeaux futures are a tough sell, even though 2009 is a “stellar” year. Consumer demand just isn’t there. Diageo (the world’s largest wine, beer, and liquor company) passed on buying 2009 Bordeaux futures. Gary Vaynerchuk, who used to do $10 million a year in Bordeaux futures, won't offer futures at his store.

For us value-hunters, all this is the silver lining in the recession’s dark clouds. More wine stores and restaurants are re-jigging their offerings, bringing in far more “good wines at moderate prices”. Any customer of Vintages (Ontario’s fine wine store) knows that, slowly, more reasonably-priced bottles are showing up on the shelves, in their Classics Catalogue, and through their online exclusives. Sure, some “trophies” are still on the shelves but we’ll leave those to my former colleagues.

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FOR SALE – LCBO?

The Globe and Mail reports that the Ontario government has hired two banks to provide advice, in about two months, on selling off the LCBO. Haven’t we been here before? A decade ago, rumours floated regularly that the Ontario government might sell off the LCBO. Now, with the recession and the government’s $25-billion deficit, selling off its most attractive assets is once again on government’s table.

Whether or not you believe the government should even be in the business of selling liquor, it’s there now, and the government has some angles to consider:

1. How much can they sell the LCBO for?  The Globe and Mail’s report says, “For example, the LCBO's valuation could top $10-billion, based on the trading prices of private liquor stores in Alberta.” For a business that generated $1.4 billion in net profit for its owner (the government) last year, a $10-billion sales price would be the bargain of the century. The government cannot turn its back on that annuity without getting full-price for the business.
2. What about a partnership?  The government doesn’t have to sell off 100 percent of the LCBO. It could enter into a public-private partnership with a private sector group, or a pension fund that’s looking for a lucrative investment with a steady return. This way, the government gets an immediate injection of capital to reduce the deficit, but still has an annuity from the LCBO’s operations.
3. Is it in the best interests of the consumer?  Although every Ontario wine consumer probably has a list of “what I wish the LCBO would do better”, the transition from a government-run near-monopoly to a “free-market” would not be easy. Frankly, the last thing we want to see is a mass shift to stores with shelf after shelf of Fuzion and [yellow tail]. Let’s learn from Alberta’s experience. Plus, with its monopoly, the LCBO is the largest single buyer of wine in the world. Do Ontario consumers benefit from that buying power with lower prices…or does the LCBO’s 48 percent profit margin tell us just the government gets the benefit?
4. Is it politically popular?  Actually, I should probably list this one first! Previous polls have shown that Ontario voters like the idea of the government controlling the sale of the demon rum. Right now, this idea of selling the LCBO is a trial balloon. You can bet the government will poll voters to find out if this idea is a winner.

What do you think?  Leave a comment by clicking on the link below.

[UPDATE]

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Bio? Dynamic! Part 2

In my previous post, I looked at what Biodynamic, organic, and natural wines are. Now that we’ve got definitions out of the way, let’s look at why we should be seeking out these wines. What makes these wines better? For me, there are three reasons: distinctive and better taste, they’re better for your health, and it’s better for the environment.

Taste
Grapes get a lot of their taste from the type of soil that the vine grows in. [Oops...this was an oversimplification. See my follow-up post.]  And soil composition can be very individualistic; varying significantly even from the soil in a neighbouring plot. Because the goal is to draw all their nutrients from the soil itself (rather than being fed any synthetic fertilizers), organic vines are more reflective of their specific place (what us wine fans call terroir). If the winemaker then takes a classic Old World approach to vinification, allowing the wine to express what the terroir contributes to the grape, then wines made from organic and Biodynamic grapes reflect a distinctive nose and palate. If like me, you tire of too many wines manipulated to taste the same, and you long for wines that are distinctive, that reflect from where they come, then start looking at organic and Biodynamic wines.

OK, distinctive, but is it better? Lots of blind tastings say, yes! One example. In 2004, Fortune magazine organized a blind tasting of 10 pairs of wines, where the grapes were grown near each other, from the same vintage, one Biodynamic and one conventional. The result? The tasters judged that the Biodynamic wine was better in 9 out of 10 cases: better aromas, flavours, and textures. Over the past 15 years, Biodynamics has become more popular among winemakers who care about making better wines. An accurate count can be hard to come by, but one source lists 529 winemakers in 16 countries using Biodynamic practices, including several high-profile vintners. And the list is growing. Although it’s possible that some growers are jumping onto the Biodynamic bandwagon as a marketing gimmick, many more have gone Biodynamic because their passion is to produce the best wine that they can.

Some critics doubt that Biodynamic practices themselves will produce better wines. Rather, they argue that Biodynamic practices are very painstaking and that’s why the wines are better: these Biodynamic winemakers simply put even more care and attention into growing the grapes and making the wine. Ah, but many wine drinkers don’t care why it works, just as long as we have more wines that are delicious!

Health
Various research studies show that consuming wine in moderation yields health benefits, with one compound, occurring naturally in grape skins, singled out: resveratrol. Researchers link resveratrol to, among other things, improving cardiovascular health and endurance, fighting cancer cells, and slowing aging. For a grape, resveratrol acts as a natural fungus killer. But in vineyards where the vintner uses synthetic fungicides, the grapes produce significantly less resveratrol. Of course, this means that organic and Biodynamic grapes have higher levels of resveratrol. Want more of the benefits of resveratrol? Look for wines made from organic and Biodynamic grapes.

Environmental Responsibility
The debate continues on the toxic effect of pesticides on people, animals, and the environment. It’s clear, though, that organic and Biodynamic viticulture reduces synthetic pesticide, fungicide, and nutrient runoff, simply because growers shun such practices. So if you want to help reduce pesticide levels, support organic and Biodynamic wineries.

So, how do you find these wines? Ask at the store where you buy wine. If they don’t know about organic or Biodynamic wines, find another store. In Ontario, Vintages is doing a good job of identifying organic and Biodynamic wines in their catalogues, and their stores now have a separate (if too small) section for organic wines. Check the back label on the bottle. If a winery uses organic or Biodynamic practices, they’ll want you to know. Many wineries have a website and aren’t shy about telling you about how their grapes are grown and their wines are made. And you can always check back here. If I find one, I’ll let you know!

Organic and Biodynamic practices are no panacea. A winemaker is still at the mercy of the climate and can still mess up in the cellar. But whether you want wines that taste better and distinctive, or you want a greater health benefit from wine, or you want to support winemakers that are using more environmentally responsible practices, keep an eye out for these wines.

Bio? Dynamic! Part 1

I’m always on the lookout for wines certified as biodynamic, organic, or even natural. But what do those terms mean? And why make the effort to look for them?

First off, Biodynamic, organic, and natural are not synonyms, although they do have elements in common.

Organic: Let’s start with organic. Organic viticulture (growing the grapes) avoids the nasty synthetic stuff like fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, and anything genetically modified. Organic growers focus on:

• improving the health of the soil, and
• long-term prevention, rather than short-term cure, in dealing with problems.

Organic vintners improve soil health mostly through composting, which boosts water- and nutrient-retention as well as root penetration. Because they draw more nutrients from the soil, the grapes from organic vines should be more reflective of their specific terroir. With rare exceptions (see natural wines, below), organic practices do not extend to winemaking and so winemakers may use sulphites and various non-organic clarification agents. Like most agriculture standards, certification of organic viticulture is generally organized nationally, and so the definition of “organic” can vary from one country to the next.

Biodynamic: Rudolf Steiner developed the concept of Biodynamics in the 1920s. Biodynamics treats the vineyard as a self-sustaining closed system: everything that the vineyard needs comes from within the vineyard. Because it’s self-sustaining, the vineyard usually integrates with other forms of agriculture. Like organics, which is where most Biodynamic growers start, Biodynamics prohibits synthetic stuff. From there, Biodynamics uses specially-prepared homeopathic sprays (made of manure-stuffed horns and horn silica…holy cow!) and compost, preferably generated within the vineyard. These mixtures are applied – OK, this gets a bit weird – based on seasonal, solar, lunar, and astrological cycles. Numerous other practices in Biodynamics seem irrational to many people, including me, and some winegrowers adopt only some of Steiner’s practices. Like organic, there’s a distinction between Biodynamic grapes and Biodynamic wine. A biodynamic wine starts with grapes that are farmed biodynamically, and then winemaker does not use artificial yeasts, or adjust the sugar or acidity. Wines "made from biodynamic grapes" means that a vintner used biodynamically grown grapes, but followed “conventional” techniques in winemaking. The internationally-recognized Demeter Association provides most Biodynamic certifications, although there are rival organizations.

Natural: There’s more buzz lately about “natural” wines. There don’t seem to be any verifiable standards for natural wines, but descriptions include:

• Handpicked, organically or biodynamically grown grapes
• Low-yielding vineyards
• No added sugars, no artificial yeasts
• No fining or filtration
• No adjustments for acidity
• No other additives for mouth-feel, colour, etc
• No micro-oxygenation or reverse osmosis
• Little or no added sulphites

In my next post, we'll look at why these wines are worth seeking out.

Mulling Over a Reader’s Question

Rhonda writes, “I love mulling wine at Christmas, but I never know what to buy for mulling. I don't want to buy something so yummy I feel as though mulling it would be a waste, but I am also a firm believer that you can't create a silk purse from a sow's ear. Thoughts?”

Rhonda, your question brought back some very good memories of Germany, where they have "glühwein". The literal translation is glowwine, but I'm not sure whether it's the wine that glows or the drinker! It's very big there at the Weihnachten markt (Christmas market) and during Fasching (the week before Lent, also known as Carnival). The winters in Germany can be damp to the bone, so when you're out at the market or watching a Fasching parade, a cup or two of glühwein really hits the spot. They sell it on the street, which is very civilized.

Which wine to use? I agree with your comments about not using anything too yummy (or expensive) or too cheap either. I think that you should use a wine that you would be happy to drink ordinarily. So, for example, if you don't like Beaujolais Nouveau, don't use that.

Even so, and depending on your recipe, there can be some very dominant ingredients in mulled wine, such as clove and cinnamon. Don’t be disappointed if any wine’s flavours are overwhelmed.

I would go with something fuller-bodied but not too much tannin or acidity. Generalizations in wine are dangerous and varietal styles can be all over the map, but with that caveat out there, here’s what I would try in order of preference: Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carmenere (from Chile), Malbec (usually from Argentina), and Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre in France). If you make a fair bit of mulled wine, you could prepare several batches using different wines, and invite family and friends to pick a favourite.

Here are some specific recommendations for some fuller-bodied wines that might work for a mulled wine:

• L.A. Cetto Petite Sirah 2007, # 983742, Price: $ 11.95, 13.5% ABV, Mexico
• Spinelli Malbec, # 143750, Price: $ 7.95, 13.3% ABV, Italy
• Fuzion Shiraz Malbec, # 83188, Price: $ 7.45, 13.3% ABV, Argentina
• Bodegas Castano La Casona Monastrell, # 143743, Price: $ 8.95, 13.5% ABV, Spain

The Monastrell and Spinelli Malbec are relatively new to the LCBO but they may be in short supply as a couple of high-profile wine critics recommended them. You can check the LCBO on-line inventory (and look for inexpensive Carmenere, Zin, etc). Fuzion has been out for over a year and there was huge buzz about it (terrific value for money).

Let me know what you try and how it works!

[Update, Jan 14, 2010:  If you're looking for a mulled wine video-recipe, click here for one from Beppi Crosariol.]

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My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives – December 9

Here’s my shopping list for today’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.

What am I looking for? Three things.

Organic: I’m always on the lookout for wines certified biodynamic, organic, or even natural.

Off-the Beaten Track: I’m keen on lesser-known or underappreciated varietals and blends, so you’re unlikely to find any Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay on my shopping list. I do buy them, but they don’t need any more publicity.

Value: I’m looking for wines at less than $30. Again, I do go over, but that’s not the focus here.

Biodynamic
1.  Matetic Corralillo Reserva Syrah 2007; DO San Antonio, Chile; # 0146407; 14% ABV; $23
Certified organic by BCS Öko-Garantie GmbH, Matetic has always grown its grapes using biodynamic principles. And it’s a syrah from Chile!

Off the Beaten Track
2.  Anselmo Mendes Muros Antigos Alvarinho 2008; DOC Vinho Verde Portugal; # 0080804; 12% ABV; $25
Alvarinho is the same grape as Albarino, grown just over the border in Galicia (Spain). Something to tuck away for next spring. Definitely a personal favourite.

3. Cantina Del Taburno Fidelis Aglianico Del Taburno 2005; DOC Campania; # 0145235; 13% ABV; $19
90% Aglianico and 10% Sangiovese. An underrated varietal from Campania.

4. Loma Larga Cabernet Franc 2007; Casablanca Valley, Chile; # 0146050; 14% ABV; $23
Cab Franc from Chile. Worth a try.

5. Salomon Undhof Kögl Riesling 2007; DAC Kremstal, Austria; # 0598540; 12% ABV; $25
If you like Riesling, Austria makes some really elegant ones.

6. Cuvelier Los Andes Colección 2006; Mendoza, Argentina; # 0144014; 15% ABV; $23
I say, “Argentina Red” and you say, “Malbec”. Well, Argentina is also making some interesting blends. This one is 60% Malbec, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and the balance Syrah and Petit Verdot.

Remembrance of Things Past

Spend some time reading wine reviewers and you’ll notice that they all have personal biases. High scores go to well-made wines with aromas, tastes, and texture that a reviewer likes. A wine with aromas, tastes, or texture that a wine reviewer doesn’t like, even if it’s well-made, receives a lower score, or isn't reviewed at all.  If you want to rely on a wine reviewer, take the time to understand what aromas, flavours, and styles the reviewer prefers. They might not be your preferences! And never, ever buy a wine based just on a score.

Robert Parker, pioneer of the hundred-point scoring system and perhaps the most famous wine reviewer in the world, catches a lot of flak for the enormous influence that his personal preferences have on how wines are made.  Both the documentary Mondovino and Alice Feiring’s book, The Battle for Wine and Love, hold Parker accountable for the global homogeneity of wine styles. Their argument is that far too many wines today are made in the same style – a style to please Parker, earn his high score, and command higher prices. But I don’t blame Parker. I blame wine buyers who slavishly follow his scores, or winemakers who put profits ahead of loyalty to regional typicity.

Parker himself has been consistent in his personal preferences over the course of his career. But where do these personal preferences come from? When are they formed? Why do some of us like jammy, big-fruit, massively tannic wines, and others prefer muted aromas of spices and leather, with soft tannins? I have a theory.

In my courses to become a sommelier, we analysed a least a dozen wines in each class. This analysis required us to identify the aromas and flavours in the wine, as well as colour, texture, balance, and finish. After we had completed our individual analysis, several of us would describe to the class what we found. To me, it was interesting to hear how often aromas were described in the context of childhood memories. Such comments as “smells like the herbs in my grandmother’s garden”, “reminds me of a plastic raincoat that I had when I was little”, or “it’s just like the box of Sun-maid raisins packed in my lunch in Grade 4” – all idiosyncratic to be sure but highly evocative.

In my case, I could instantly recognize the aromas from my Mom’s baking (such as lemon or vanilla) and the smell of cherry and chocolate combined, just like in a Lowney's Cherry Blossom, something I always found in my Christmas stocking.

I’m convinced that we most easily recognize aromas in a wine that unlock a childhood remembrance. We enjoy those wines that bring back happy memories.

Alice Feiring has her own personal likes and dislikes as well. In her superb book, she writes about her preferences for certain aromas and flavours in wines (allspice, clove, and cinnamon) that recall a very specific and happy memory from her childhood.

So, when you enjoy a wine, are there aromas and flavours that you easily recognize and enjoy? Do they bring back childhood memories?

End of the Golden Age in Wine?

For the past 20 years, we’ve enjoyed a golden age in wine making…and drinking. Around the world, poor vintages have been rare. Much of the credit is due to revolutionary improvements in both viticulture and vinification techniques. Even more so, many winemakers have benefited from warmer temperatures, which produce riper grapes with more flavours and sugars.

Of course, these warmer temperatures are part of climate change. For many of us, climate change is an abstract issue. One aspect of climate change, global warming, sounds benign or even desirable to Canadians heading into winter. But climate change is much more than a warmer planet; it also brings us wider fluctuations and increasing extremes in temperatures, precipitation, wind, and other climatic elements.

A recent article in the French magazine, Science et Vie, got me to thinking about what could happen in wine making if climate trends continue. What further developments and coping measures might we see?

• Some Like It Hot? As grapes ripen in warmer temperatures, they quickly produce more sugar, which converts to alcohol during fermentation. A German wine researcher estimates that for every 2.4°C increase in the average temperature in August, the alcohol level in wine increases by 2 percentage points. Wines from the world’s warmest regions are now often in the range of 14-15% alcohol. Spain has produced a wine at 17%. Will discerning consumers want these big, fat, hot (alcoholic) wines?
• Increased Frost Damage: In many areas, budding on vines starts 2 to 3 weeks earlier than it did 30 years ago and that trend will continue. However, temperatures now fluctuate more widely during the earlier budding period, increasing the risk of a killing frost.

What will wine producers do to beat the heat…or frost?

• Varietal Changes: Some varietals that ripen early, such as merlot, may become less viable and popular, later-ripening varietals, such as syrah, more so. But in France (for example), where the appellation regulations limit where winemakers grow which varietals, winemakers cannot simply rip up merlot and plant syrah. One “fortunate” winemaker in Bergerac has decided to rip out all of his merlot vines (45 percent of his vineyard) and replace it with two other permitted varietals, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Why? Because the sugar/alcohol level now gets too high in merlot before the grape reaches full maturity (not enough flavour and tannins). The challenges for some of the best Pomerol (Bordeaux) winemakers that grow predominately merlot are enormous. In contrast, other Bordeaux wines, such as Médoc, that grow the later-ripening Cabernets and Petit Verdot, may become better. Even so, Bordeaux, which relies on blending up to five different grapes to make its wines, is in a much better situation than regions that make wines from single varietals, such as Burgundy, Alsace, and Loire. If their varietals can no longer thrive in the local climate, knowledge and reputations that took centuries to build will be in the dustbin of history. Any country that has powerful wine regulators will be caught between a rock (climate change) and a hard place (inflexible rules).
• Shifts in – and within – the Wine Producing Latitudes: Today, the world's wine producing regions are between the latitudes of 30° and 50° in both hemispheres. With an increase in temperature, wine production may extend beyond the 50th parallel, and is increasingly tenuous at the 30th parallel. Within the last 3 years, both Denmark and Sweden increased their efforts in winemaking. In the world’s existing wine producing areas, it’s the ones at the geographic edges, such as Ontario and British Columbia, that will benefit from warmer temperatures. Another example: some of Australia’s best wines are now coming from its most southern region, Tasmania.
• Shifts in the Wine Producing Altitudes: Another way to beat the heat is to move vineyards to higher altitudes. For example, the Catalan producer Torres is buying properties in the Pyrenees.
• Shifts in Hillside Exposures: For several reasons, hillside vineyards produce the best wines. More often than not, winemakers plant these vineyards facing south or west, to take advantage of the afternoon sun. Vineyards might be re-oriented to northern or eastern exposures for exactly the opposite reason: to reduce over-exposure to sunlight.

These 3 shifts – in latitudes, altitudes, and exposures – all mean moving vineyards to new locations. But the conventional wisdom is that it takes 3 generations to produce good wines in a new geographic area. Most of us won’t live to drink the great wines of the Pyrenees!

• Less Frequent, But More Intense, Rain: If you’ve seen An Inconvenient Truth, then you've seen that there are more areas in the world that receive the same annual amount of rainfall, but the rain falls less frequently yet more intensely. What’s the significance? When the intense rain does fall after a long dry period, the topsoil erodes, making it even more difficult for the subsoil to store any moisture. The damage to the premium hillside vineyards is even greater. This phenomenon is increasingly common in southern Europe (Spain, Italy, Greece, and southern France), California, and Australia.
• More Irrigation: Even if overall annual rainfall remains the same, there are key moments in the growing season when water is critical. If rainfall becomes less frequent, then irrigation becomes attractive. Advantage here to the New World, where irrigation is much more common. Much of the EU frowns on irrigation and overcoming those attitudes could be difficult. In either case, vineyard irrigation places even more demand on scarce water resources.

The potential loss of the wines we enjoy today is not the most catastrophic consequence of climate change. But the measures needed to cope with it are fascinating and illustrate the new challenges that winemakers face.

The Rain in Tain

A vintner does much to ensure a good vintage becomes a better one. But, like all things agricultural, viticulture is ultimately at the mercy of the elements: You can’t fix a lack of sunshine and you can’t hold back the rain. Often the damage from uncooperative weather occurs over the whole season. Sometimes the damage occurs in just a few hours. That was the case in Northern Rhone in 2008, which produces wines such as Cote Rotie, Cornas, and Hermitage, and I was there to see it. 

In September 2008, Michèle and I were on a visit to the Northern Rhone Valley. On the morning of Saturday the 6th, we headed for Tain-l’Hermitage, a 40-minute drive from where we were staying, to do a little shopping before heading for lunch at Les Cèdres in Granges-Les-Beaumont. Tain-l’Hermitage is a town of 5000 inhabitants and home to the winemakers Chapoutier (biodynamic!) and Jaboulet, the Northern Rhone wine cooperative, as well as Valrhona, the chocolate-maker.

Black storm clouds were quickly gathering as we drove to Tain-l’Hermitage and the rain started to fall as we parked the car. We dashed from one store to the next, the rain becoming more and more intense, completing all of our shopping in a frantic 45 minutes. The rain had been falling for less than an hour but already the town had begun to close some roads because of flash flooding.

We left by a back road, heading east, along the steep hillside vineyards that rose up to the left of us on the northern edge of town. We crawled along; the rainwater was like a waterfall, rushing down the steep slopes, picking up rocks, small logs, and anything else that was loose in the vineyards, dumping all this debris into our path. Soon, the water on the road was six inches deep, the rain coming down so fast that it couldn’t drain away. Over 300 mm of rain fell that one day, more than the Northern Rhone Valley normally gets in the entire growing season.

I remember thinking that all this rain, this late in the growing season, would be disastrous. The grapes would become engorged with water, diluting the sugar and flavours, and resulting in weak wines. There was the risk of rot and disease afterwards in very damp conditions. In the initial news reports, the local vintners did admit that all this rain would be ruinous. But 2 or 3 days later, their PR machine had kicked in, and now the vintners interviewed on TV said, no, things were salvageable; 2008 would be a good year after all. Which would it be?

Now, a year later, we are seeing tasting reports for Northern Rhone 2008 wines. Vintners are admitting that 2008 was a difficult year. They received special permission to chaptalize (add sugar) to their wine musts, a sign that the grapes remained diluted with water right up to harvest. The colour and tannins will be lighter than normal. The very best vintners are like magicians in the cellar, and some may be able to salvage some reasonably good wines. Not wines for aging, but good to drink young. But one of these magicians, Jaboulet, decided not to produce their top-of-the-line wine, La Chapelle.

So, a vintage lessened if not lost, and a reminder that nature provides no guarantees.

A Reader Asks!

R_____, from Ottawa, asks, “How can you tell when a wine should be left open to breathe for a significant period of time (two hours or more) before drinking it?”

Thanks for a great question, R_____. My “rules” on decanting and letting a wine breathe reflect my own experience.

Let’s start with decanting. Decanting a wine is done for 3 reasons: to remove sediment from a wine, or to open a wine’s aromas quickly, or because you like the look of wine in a decanter.

First, and there’s really no debate about this, you should always decant if you even suspect that there’s some sediment deposited in the wine. Sediment that ends up in a wine glass doesn’t look good and it certainly doesn’t taste good. Sediment increases with age, so I decant almost any wine that’s more than 10 years old (the exception: I never decant Pinot Noir). Because older wines that have matured will lose their aromas and flavours rapidly with prolonged exposure to oxygen, decant just before serving.

I also decant any wine, regardless of age, that is “unfined” or “unfiltered” as these wines, not surprisingly, will contain more sediment when bottled. Again, decant the wine just before serving.

Another reason to decant a wine is to open the aromas quickly in a young wine. Such cases should be rare. Let’s say that you have a more expensive bottle that is worthy of aging and hasn’t yet hit its maturity. Allowing that wine to age in the bottle exposes it to oxygen very slowly, allowing the flavours to mature and the tannins to soften. What if you just can’t wait? If you want to drink a wine before it's had a chance to fully mature, then decanting it (exposing it to oxygen all at once) accelerates the aging process and brings out more of the aromas and flavours. But it’s like being awoken from a deep sleep at 3 am with a slap across the face (uh no, hasn't happened to me). Sure, you're awake, but perhaps not at your best. If you really, really want to drink that expensive bottle before its time, then go with decanting about an hour before serving. For me, that's only for young full-bodied wines (above 13.5% alcohol) like Aussie Shiraz or California Cab. Light and medium-bodied wines need to be fresh, and long exposure to oxygen takes that away.

Of course, the real trick here is knowing whether a wine has reached maturity and, unfortunately, there’s only one sure way to know. That’s right, you have to open it!

Oh, there’s one other reason to decant a wine: aesthetics. If you simply prefer the look of wine in a decanter, then go ahead. Again, decant just before serving.

What about simply opening the bottle to let the wine breathe? Some experts (Steve Spurrier is one) do recommend opening up red wines about an hour ahead of serving. I'm not a big fan of this. If you just open the bottle, the amount of exposure that the wine gets through the bottle opening is so little that it has minimal effect. But it won’t hurt the wine either.

Whether it’s decanting or letting a wine breathe, try it with a few wines and see if you can see a difference. Open the bottle about an hour ahead (decant as well if you want), try an ounce then, and try it again when you serve it to your guests. Do you see a difference? If you think it helps, that's what counts. I'd love to hear about your experiences.

My Picks: Vintages Release – December 5

Here’s my shopping list for the Vintages Release on December 5.

What am I looking for? Three things.
Organic: I’m always on the lookout for wines certified biodynamic, or organic, perhaps even natural (I’ll have more on this in an upcoming post.)
Off the Beaten Track: I’m keen on lesser-known or underappreciated varietals and blends, so you’re unlikely to find any Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay on my shopping list. I do buy them, but they don’t need any more publicity.
Value: I’m looking for wines at less than $30. Again, I do go over, but that’s not the focus here.

And I try to keep the list to a dozen.

Organic
1. EBLIN-FUCHS ELLENWIHR RIESLING 2007, AOC Alsace; #141234;
Price: $ 17.95; 12.8% ABV; Made In Alsace, France
ECOCERT, one of the world’s largest organic-certification organizations, certified Eblin-Fuchs as organic. And this is one of my favourites: a Riesling from Alsace.

Off the Beaten Track
2. PETALUMA HANLIN HILL RIESLING 2008, Clare Valley; #138537;
Price: $ 21.95; 12.5% ABV
When we think of Australia, we tend to think of hot climates that yield hefty Shiraz and Chardonnay. But Riesling is the big deal in Clare Valley, a cooler climate region near Adelaide. It’s unjustly underappreciated.

3. GÉRARD BERTRAND RÉSERVE SPÉCIALE VIOGNIER 2008, Vin de Pays D’Oc; #147975;
Price: $ 16.95; 13.0% ABV
I have a thing for Languedoc wines now. And I need some Viognier.

4. There are three 2007 reds from three different AOC within Languedoc, all for under $20. Pick the first one…or, like me, all 3.

CHÂTEAU L'HOSPITALET LA RÉSERVE ROUGE 2007, AOC Coteaux du Languedoc – La Clape; #682492; Price: $ 19.95; 13.5% ABV

CHÂTEAU DU PRIEURÉ DES MOURGUES 2007, AOC Saint-Chinian; #985598; Price: $15.95; 12.7% ABV

MONT TAUCH TRADITION CARIGNAN/GRENACHE/SYRAH 2007, AOC Fitou; #142810;
Price: $ 16.95; 13.5% ABV

The Southwest of France is another underappreciated region. Two picks from here:

5. CAVE DE CROUSEILLES FOLIE DU ROI MADIRAN 2006; #147991;
Price: $ 17.95; 13.5% ABV
Made from 100% Tannat. If you like duck confit, you’ve got to have some Madiran. It’s the perfect match.

6. CHÂTEAU DE CHAMBERT 2004, AOC Cahors; #720821; Price: $ 19.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of 71% Malbec, 20% Merlot and 9% Tannat. Try some Old World Malbec!

The Iberian Peninsula is a goldmine of fantastic wines made from lesser-known varietals:

7. GLORIA RESERVA 2004, DOC Douro; #146522; Price: $ 17.95; 13.3% ABV
An equal blend of Tinta Roriz (what the Portuguese call Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional (most often used to made port).

8. ATTECA OLD VINES 2007, DO Calatayud; #103473; Price: $ 21.95; 14.6% ABV
Made from 100% old vine Garnacha (Grenache), which is quickly becoming one of my favourite varietals

9. CHAPILLON CUVÉE HARMONIE PETIT VERDOT/TANNAT 2006, DO Aragon; #143933;
Price: $ 14.95; 13.9% ABV
Wow, an unusual blend of 90% Petit Verdot (normally grown in Bordeaux and used there to add flavour and tannins) and 10% Tannat. Have to try this.

10. JUAN GIL MONASTRELL 2008, DO Jumilla; #13656; Price: $ 15.95; 14.5% ABV
Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre in France) is another lesser-known varietal that packs a punch, another current favourite.

11. PUERTA BONITA G5 GARNACHA 2007, DO Vinos de Madrid; #132266;
Price: $ 19.95; 14.5% ABV
Made from old vine Garnacha

12. RIDGE THREE VALLEYS 2007, Sonoma County; #652875; Price: $ 31.95; 13.7% ABV
In my experience, Ridge is one of the most reliable California producers and this is a blend of mainly two “Californians” – Zinfandel (76%) and Petite Sirah (7%) – with some Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan to give it a Languedoc-like influence.

There are 3 wines from Georgia, and I might try one of these as well.

Au Revoir, Languedoc!

Our last full day in Montpellier…a day for packing and cleaning. We’ve time to roam around the old city centre once more. It’s become a favourite place to wander and, even today, we discover streets and alleys that we haven’t visited yet.

Along one of these new-to-us alleys, we find some small restaurants and pick one, Le Prince de Minorque, with tables out in the alley, for lunch. It’s the last day, so we go for a couple of classics: Michèle takes Steak-Frites and I go for the Duck Confit Parmentière.

We select a bottle of Clos de Clapisses 2007, Vin du Pays Coteaux du Salagou, 12.5% ABV, produced by Bruno Peyre in Octon (60 kilometres east of Montpellier). It’s 100% Carignan, harvested by hand. Although growers cut its production by 2/3 over the past 20 years, Carignan still is the most planted grape variety in Languedoc. But it really gets no respect. It has very high yields, making a lot of very ordinary wine. With its deep colour and rustic tannins, winemakers traditionally use it as a blending grape. But some young winemakers are trying to rescue Carignan from the depths of contempt. This wine has aromas of red fruit (carbonic maceration), dried herbs (the Garrigue), and liquorice. Definite tannins but not aggressive. Good length. Excellent with both the steak and the duck. Keep up the good work, Bruno!

For dessert, two more classics: Crème Brûlée and melting chocolate cake. With two espressos, it’s a perfect final lunch.

Ah…and dinner? Dinner is with Bob and Nathalie at Les Vignes, also in the old city centre. The aperitif is at our apartment; it’s the L’Etincelle 2008 that we bought at Mas Cal Demoura. Delicious.

At the restaurant, for appetizer we take foie gras and lobster raviolis. With these two appetizers I chose a Muscat Sec 2008, Vin de Pays D’Oc, 13.5% ABV, produced by Domaine de Valcyre Benezech in Valflaunès, 25 kilometres straight north of Montpellier. I’m usually pretty good (yet modest) with matching wine with food, and I like to stretch the envelope, but this wine doesn’t work at all. It turns out to be very dry, and I was expecting something at least a bit off-dry. (Yes, I know that “sec” means “dry”.) You know, you want the restaurant sommelier to steer you in a better direction but sometimes, you don’t ask, they don’t tell. It’s through our mistakes that we gain wisdom.

For the mains, most of us take the filet de Taureau de Camargue, with a thyme sauce and cèpes risotto. For a wine, I have a good idea but, this time, I ask the sommelier for some advice! Maybe there’s a hidden treasure on the list? She suggests Clos Sorian 2005, Coteaux de Languedoc, 13% ABV produced by Alain Martin in St-Bauzille-de-la-Sylve, 40 kilometres due west of Montpellier. A blend of Grenache and Syrah, it has aromas of blackberry, garrigue, sweet spices, and liquorice. Good acidity and soft tannins to balance the fruit. Great with the bull.

A marvellous end to a fantastic trip. Merci, Languedoc!

For photo highlights, go to http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=10627&id=100000148392134&l=ddc51dd8ba

P.S. Through our four weeks in Montpellier, it didn’t rain once (although the rain caught us one day outside of Montpellier). As our plane takes off to leave, the rain begins to fall. Montpellier gets 40 mm of rain that day.