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The theme of this week’s release is Burgundy, with South Africa as a supporting player.
For this blog, the problem with Burgundy is threefold. First, Burgundy is not exactly “off the beaten track”, although there are parts of Burgundy that are: Côte Chalonnaise, Le Mâconnais, and the Haut-Côtes, some of which are in this release. Second, the price of many Burgundy wines lands north of $30, which I generally use as the cut-off for My Picks. And third, many producers this week are small and don’t devote any effort to a web presence. I like to learn a little something about the Terroir, the climate, and the vinification techniques of a wine before I recommend that you try it. With rare exceptions, no disclosure means no recommendation. Sometimes, if I can find the email address of the winery or importer, I’ll write to them. But this week, even those are impossible to find.
The result? Only one Burgundy wine, a white from Le Mâconnais, makes the list. And there are only 10 Picks in total, of which 3 are Italian. (Ah, Italy, you always come through.) And a Sparkling Shiraz and some Sherry.
And, once again this week, no organic wines!
Off the Beaten Track
White
CHÂTEAU-FUISSÉ TÊTE DE CRU 2008, AC Pouilly-Fuissé (France); #208546; Price: $29.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Chardonnay (of course), blended from grapes grown in 20+ vineyards, vinified separately, then blended. Aged 70% in oak barrels (25% new) and 30% in stainless steel. I’m thinking grilled scallops.
Reds
HENRY OF PELHAM GAMAY 2009, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara Peninsula; #291112; Price: $14.95; 12.7% ABV
100% Gamay, a Varietal that Niagara can do quite well. Conventional fermentation with the addition of 20% whole grape clusters added for a touch of carbonic maceration. Aged in stainless steel. Drink this year with roast chicken.
PIRRAMIMMA PETIT VERDOT 2006, McLaren Vale (Australia); #986752; Price: $24.95; 14.5% ABV
100% Petit Verdot, most known as a blending grape in Bordeaux, offering deep colour, tannins, and spicy flavours. We don't often see Petit Verdot as a single Varietal, although I do remember drinking a delicious Ontario PV a couple of years back. They fermented this one in concrete vats and then finished in French and American oak. Aged in oak (30% new, 70% older) for 24 months.
BELLINGHAM DRAGON'S LAIR 2006, WO Coastal Region (South Africa); #68692; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV
A Northern Rhone blend of Shiraz (84%) and Viognier (5%) with a Southern Rhone variety, Mourvèdre (11%), thrown in. Hand harvested. Co-fermented in stainless steel tanks. Malolactic fermentation in oak (50% first use, 50% second use), followed by 18 months aging in the oak barrels. A first BBQ wine of the season.
ORTAS TRADITION RASTEAU 2009; AC Côtes Du Rhône-Villages (France); #998716; Price: $15.00; 14.0% ABV
A typical Southern Rhone blend of Grenache (70%), Syrah (20%), and Mourvèdre (10%). 90% handpicked (90%?! Why not 100%?) Long maceration, aged in concrete vats. No oak. Great year, keep your eye out for more 2009s from the Rhone over the next year or two.
IPPOLITO 1845 LIBER PATER 2008, DOC Cirò Rosso Classico Superiore (Calabria, Italy); #121061; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Gaglioppo, the indigenous grape variety of Cirò (and Calabria at large), known for its tannins. Long maceration on the skins, then aged in French oak barrels for 6 months.
UMANI RONCHI SAN LORENZO 2007, DOC Rosso Conero (Marche, Italy); #981191; Price: $15.95; 13.2% ABV
100% Montepulciano, the workhorse grape of the Adriatic coast. Hand harvested. Maceration for 10 days in steel vats, followed by Malolactic fermentation. Half aged in 5000 litre oak casks, half in oak barrels (third and fourth use) for 12 months, followed by bottle aging for 6 months before release. It’s a classic wine for pizza or pasta with tomato sauce.
RIVERA CAPPELLACCIO RISERVA AGLIANICO 2005, DOC Castel del Monte (Puglia, Italy); #984120; Price: $18.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Aglianico. Maceration for 12 days in stainless steel. Aging for 12 months in French oak barrels of varying ages, then another year in the bottle before release. Do the math, a 2005, where’s it been? But for the price, it’s a good value. I’d try it with lamb, either a hearty ragout or, if spring ever comes, grilled chops.
Sparkling
HARDYS OOMOO SPARKLING SHIRAZ 2004, Clare Valley (Australia); #221853; Price: $19.95; 14.0% ABV
Well now, this is interesting, an Oz sparkling made of 100% Shiraz. Primary fermentation in stainless steel and oak, followed by Malolactic fermentation. Aged for a year in oak. Secondary fermentation in bottle, kept on its lees for 4 years.
Fortified
WILLIAMS & HUMBERT WALNUT BROWN RARE OLD BROWN OLOROSO, DO Jerez (Spain); #437467; Price: $11.95; 17.5% ABV
OK, get over the fact that your grandmother – and Fraser Crane – drank sherry. A blend of Palomino, Pedro Ximénez and Muscatel grapes. The wine itself is a blend of Oloroso (a dry fortified sherry that has more exposure to air while aging in the cask for 4 years, making it darker and concentrated) and Cream (a sweet dark sherry). Look for the classic flavours of nuts and dried raisins. Made for the UK market. Quite sweet; serve very cold, it’s dessert in a glass.
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Regular readers know that I’m a HUGE fan of Spanish and Portuguese wines. Why? I love unusual, indigenous Varietals and blends. The Iberian Peninsula is chock full of them: Tempranillo (with its many aliases), Alvarinho & Albarino, Viura, Verdejo, Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca...all are in the mix this week. It’s a dream come true!
This week also offers “California Superstars”, a group of 8 wines that, for the most part, are overpriced for what they offer. But if you’re in a mood to splurge, then go for Dominus or Pahlmeyer.
Again this week, nothing organic. Maybe they’re saving up for a theme release?
On the Iberian Trail
Whites
1 from Portugal, 3 from Spain...all featuring indigenous grape varieties...
VARANDA DO CONDE ALVARINHO/TRAJADURA 2009, DOC Vinho Verde (Portugal); #966663; Price: $13.95; 12.0% ABV
A blend of Alvarinho (70%) and Trajadura (30%). Alvarinho is the Portuguese name for what the Spanish call Albarino. Trajadura is also an indigenous grape that's used to add weight. Fermented for 10 days. Drink now with some molluscs!
AGRICOLA CASTELLANA CUATRO RAYAS VERDEJO 2009, DO Rueda (Spain); #194787; Price: $14.95; 12.1% ABV
100% Verdejo, the signature grape of Rueda in northern Spain, along the Duero River. Fermented for 21 days in stainless steel vats using native yeasts. Left on its lees for 3 months. No oak. Verdejo is typically herbaceous with minerality, nuttiness (are you out there, Kyle?) and bitterness on the finish. In short, a fabulous wine with seafood.
BERONIA VIURA 2009, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #190801, Price: $13.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Viura, what Riojans call Macabeo, the most common white grape variety in northern Spain. Barrel fermented in French oak, then left on its lees for 5 months. Drink ASAP.
LEIRA ALBARIÑO 2009, DO Rias Baixas (Spain); #115816; Price: $16.95; 12.1% ABV
100% Albariño, the wonderful Varietal from Galicia in northwest Spain, directly north of Portugal. A great spring/summer aperitif.
Reds
More indigenous grape varieties...3 from Portugal, 3 from Spain...
CISTUS RESERVA 2007, DOC Douro (Portugal); #145052; Price: $18.95; 14.0% ABV
A blend of Tinta Roriz - aka Tempranillo - (40%), Touriga Franca (40%), and Touriga Nacional (20%), the same grapes used to make Port. Fermented in stainless steel vats. Aged for 15 months in French, American and Hungarian oak barrels. Ideal with braised meats or blue cheese.
QUINTA NOVA POMARES 2008, DOC Douro (Portugal); #214007; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 8 days. Partly aged French and American oak for 4 months. Unfiltered. Same grapes as the wine listed above, but much less time in oak. Should make for an interesting contrast.
ENCOSTAS DE ESTREMOZ TOURIGA FRANCA 2004, Vinho Regional Alentejano (Portugal); #190561; Price: $17.95; 14.5% ABV
100% Touriga Franca from Alentejo in southern Portugal. Fermented over 8 days, followed by maceration for 25 days. Aged in new American and French oak barrels for 7 months. Alentejo is a newer wine-producing region in Portugal, still finding its way. In this wine, the producer (SA da Lagarteira) is trying Touriga Franca, which is indigenous to northern Portugal. Worth a try!
EL COTO CRIANZA 2006, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #190504; Price: $14.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Tempranillo from vineyards across Rioja: Baja, Alta, Alavesa. Fermented in stainless steel vats. Aged 12 months in American oak barrels, then 6 months in the bottle before release. Try it with roast chicken.
LEALTANZA RESERVA SELECCIÓN 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #208223; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for 15 days, with 20 additional days of maceration. Malolactic fermentation in French oak. Aged for 24 months in second-use French oak, then 6 months in Allier French oak vats, then 12 months in bottle. Think steak.
VIÑA MAYOR RESERVA 2004, DO Ribera del Duero (Spain); #209155; Price: $25.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Fermentation on the grape skins; maceration for 21 days. Malolactic fermentation in barrel, then fined. Aged 18 months in French and American oak barrels, then 18 months in bottle. Lamb chops, anyone?
Off the Beaten Track
A bottle of red, a bottle of white...
BOLLINI PINOT GRIGIO 2009, DOC Trentino (Italy); #951319; Price: $16.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Pinot Grigio from Trentino in northeast Italy, where Pinot Grigio has a chance to shine. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, left on its lees and skins for 4 months.
HENRY OF PELHAM RESERVE BACO NOIR 2008, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #461699; Price: $24.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Baco Noir, a hybrid grape variety (crossing a Vitis Vinifera with a Vitis Riparia). Baco Noir is generally not highly regarded except for the efforts of one producer: Henry of Pelham, whose efforts are very impressive. Aged in new, one-, and two-year-old American oak for 15 months. Definitely a winter wine but no rush, it can age a few more years.
Bonus Pick!
PISCO SOLDEICA, DO Ica (Peru); #214106; Price: $29.95; 40.6% ABV
Pisco Puro, the famous brandy from Peru! Made from 100% Quebranta grape variety. Fermented, then immediately distilled. Aged for 3 years in stainless steel before bottling. Consume it neat (as any other brandy) or in a Pisco Sour. Careful…it packs a wallop! Trust me. Click here for my tour of a Peruvian Pisco plant.
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As a Christmas gift, I received a bottle of Pink Floyd’s Dark Side of the Moon Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Mendocino County (California), 13.5% ABV. It’s a novelty item, I suppose, a bit like other celebrity wines, although this celebrity is a thing.
Are these things worth it? Well, if you’re a fan of the celebrity, then you won’t mind paying a premium for the bottle. The winemaker makes a bit more money, the celebrity gets a cut, and we, the consumer, get a souvenir, so it’s a good deal for us and them.
The wine is the product of Wines That Rock – aka Mendocino Wine Co. – which also boasts of sustainable farming, 100% green power (solar & wind), eco-friendly packaging, and carbon neutrality.
Released in 1973, Dark Side of the Moon vies with The Wall as the best effort by Pink Floyd – David Gilmour, Nick Mason, Roger Waters, and Richard Wright, all of whom are still with us except for Richard Wright, who has gone to the great gig in the sky.
We tried this wine with dinner the other night. I had been on the run all day, so I didn’t have time to let it breathe before dinner. It does speak to me of a typical California Cab. Deep garnet, which is not just any colour. You like aromas of cassis and black cherry with flavours of cassis, vanilla, and a bit of chocolate? Then you’ll like this. It’s medium-bodied, smooth, and, at 13.5%, you don’t have to worry about any brain damage.
Of course, we had to listen to the album while drinking this wine. It’s been quite a while since I’ve listened to it. (It’s not our typical dinnertime music.) I’d forgotten how bloody brilliant it is. Maybe even better during a lunar eclipse?
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Insightful column from Andrew Jeffords this week at Decanter.
Ever wondered what the distinction is between a fine wine and a…well...not-so-fine wine? It's more than just the price.
Let’s hear from Mr Jeffords:
Fine wines attempt to make the best wine possible, but resist the temptation to hide nature’s imperfections. Letting all those variables come through is what makes a vintage interesting and intriguing.
The attraction of not-so-fine wines is their consistency. The same thing attracts people to McDonalds. No surprises.
Some drinkers, indeed, seek out ‘lesser years’ as a refuge from modish ripeness. The underlying assumption, though, must be that the wine will be a truthful account of the vintage.
Don’t strive to correct nature; select from it instead, so as to deliver the most limpid and resonant account of the year that you can. Otherwise … what’s the point?
Fine wines are usually a snapshot of place, too, as well as being an interpretation of a Varietal (or blended) ideal. They’re also a drinkable weather report: the summary of a season. But to what extent?
In great vintages, of course, you take what nature has given you, and say a private word of thanks when no one’s looking. What, though, do you do when nature has teased and tortured you? Do you allow the excesses and deficiencies of a season to be apparent in the wine, or do you attempt to remedy nature in some way?
Bravo! I couldn’t agree more.
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Last year, in my review of Au Revoir to All That, I wrote about how cuisine in France has been changing and the reasons why. Chief among those reasons is the economic malaise that has afflicted France since the 1980s, where the spending power of diners has been relentlessly impaired over almost 30 years. The result? Pressure on chefs to cut costs, to stick to the tried and true, to be risk-averse.
This year’s just released Michelin Red Guide for France, which lists their recommended restaurants and hotels, is yet another harbinger of the changing face of French cuisine. For the first time, the number of “Bib Gourmand” restaurants – offering good value for money for a three-course meal – exceeds the number of “starred” restaurants, 601 to 571 (470 one star, 76 two stars, and 25 three stars).
To qualify, a restaurant must offer three-course meals for less than €35 (CAD 48) in Paris and €29 (CAD 40) outside Paris. Of course, the food must meet Michelin’s exacting standards, which Michelin keeps to itself.
Michelin notes that this is “a sign of the times and an indicator of new culinary trends”, which is a bit of an understatement. But the increased focus on value is good news for les français et les françaises, and tourists as well.
And what does “Bib” in "Bib Gourmand" mean? Bib is short for Bibendum, the name of the Michelin Man.
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Interesting news out of Santiago. Concha y Toro has bought Mendocino County’s Fetzer Winery. What makes it interesting is that both Concha y Toro and Fetzer have significant organic and (partially) Biodynamic vineyards: Concha y Toro has Emiliana and Fetzer has Bonterra. Bonterra has been organic since 1987 and with sales of 300,000 cases annually; it’s more than three times the size of its nearest organic competitor. For my posts about Emiliana, click here.
With its purchase of Fetzer, Concha y Toro brings together 2 strong players among organic wines. My bet is that Concha y Toro believes that, someday, all wines will be organic wines.
Fetzer itself is also a leader in sustainable practices and is recognized as an environmental leader, which I’ve written about before.
As a fan of organic and Biodynamic wines, I anticipate that Fetzer and Concha y Toro will learn much from each other. It's a big vote of confidence in organic wines and a boost to sustainability.
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The headliners of this week’s release are Argentina and Chile, with a supporting role given to “the other Northern Italy”, which means anything but Piedmont.
The good thing about the wines from Argentina and Chile is that they’re not from the best-known areas. No Mendoza among the Argentineans. No Maipo, Rapel, or Maule among the Chileans. Kudos for the effort.
And I’m a big fan of northeastern Italy: Alto-Adige, Trentino, Friuli. But the choices...well...they should do better...and more of them, please.
Usually, there are other goodies tuck away here and there in any release. But I found it tough sledding this time around.
But here they are…Dave’s Dozen. (Nothing organic worth your consideration this week.)
Off the Beaten Track
Whites
Among the whites, there’s one from Chile and one from Northern Italy, plus 2 other Italians from further south and a Bordeaux.
AMARAL COOL CLIMATE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Leyda Valley (Chile); #48025; Price: $14.95; 14.5% ABV
100% Sauvignon Blanc from the cool climate of Leyda Valley, just 12 km from the Pacific, almost directly west of Santiago. Surprisingly high alcohol. Drink young with seafood.
CHÂTEAU COUCHEROY BLANC 2008, AC Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux); #199133; Price: $22.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Sauvignon Blanc, a bit unusual for a Bordeaux Blanc, which usually has a fair amount of Semillon in the blend. Partly barrel-fermented, partly fermented in stainless steel. Aged partly in oak, partly in stainless steel on its spent yeasts. No Malolactic fermentation. Crisp, fresh, ideal as an aperitif or with some simply-prepared seafood.
ALOIS LAGEDER PINOT GRIGIO 2009, DOC Alto Adige (Italy); #681429; Price: $18.95; 12.5% ABV
It’s fashionable to knock Pinot Grigio (still?) and often it’s justified. It’s a Varietal that can be insipid. But here in northeast Italy is where PG has a well-deserved good reputation. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged on its lees for 4 months. No oak.
CASALFARNETO FONTEVECCHIA 2009, DOC Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore (Marche, Italy); #208983; Price: $14.95; 13.2% ABV
I bet almost everybody knows the Verdicchio from Fazi-Battaglia (it’s the one in the odd-shaped bottle) so here’s a chance to try another producer from Marche (on the Adriatic coast, with Tuscany and Umbria to the west). Hand harvested. Aged in steel tanks for 5 months, then in bottle for 2 months. No oak. Filtered. Look for characteristic lemon and bitter almond flavours.
CARUSO & MININI TIMPUNE GRILLO 2009, IGT Sicilia; #203943; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Grillo, a grape that’s indigenous to Sicily. Fermented in large oak and acacia (!) barrels. Aged on its lees in stainless steel, followed by 3 months of bottle aging before release.
Reds
Among the reds, a couple of interesting Argentineans from outside Mendoza, plus a couple of always-reliable Rhone wines from 2 great vintages (2007, 2009) and two wines from Rioja. If you’re not drinking Rioja, you’re missing great values.
CASA MONTES ALZAMORA SYRAH 2006, San Juan (Argentina); #220673; Price: $19.95; 13.9% ABV
From San Juan, north of Mendoza. A little hotter is San Juan, which Mr Syrah seems to like. Harvested by hand. Fermented in stainless steel. Maceration on the skins both before and after fermentation for 12 days. Aged in a combination of new and used French oak for 12 months. The winemakers, originally from Spain, may be aiming for an Old World style, as they use the name “Syrah” and not “Shiraz”.
VALLE PERDIDO RESERVA MALBEC 2006, Patagonia (Argentina); #222760; Price: $19.95; 14.0% ABV
Yes, it’s 100% Malbec, the signature grape of Argentina. But it’s from the cool (and windy) climate of Patagonia, not Mendoza. Handpicked (at dawn!) and sorted, then gravity-fed into fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 10 days. Aged for 14 months in first-use 60% French and 40% American oak.
MAS DES BRESSADES CUVÉE TRADITION 2009, AC Costières de Nîmes (France); #143099; Price: $14.95; 14.1% ABV
A blend of Syrah (55%) and Grenache (45%). Machine harvested...what do you want for 15 bucks from France?...the winemaker fermented the two grape varieties separately, then aged in concrete tanks. No oak! Costières de Nîmes is officially part of the southern Rhone but is right next door to Languedoc. Good value.
PIERRE GAILLARD SAINT-JOSEPH 2007, AC Saint-Joseph (Rhone); #194928; Price: $27.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Syrah from the Northern Rhone. Cold maceration for 4 days, then fermentation for 4 days, followed by post-fermentation maceration for 2 weeks, then Malolactic fermentation in barrels. Aged 18 months in Allier and Nevers oak (20% new). I rank the smaller AC of Saint-Joseph in between Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage for quality.
BODEGAS LAN CRIANZA 2006, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #166538; Price: $15.00; 13.0% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Aged in American and French oak barrels for 12 months, followed by several months in bottle. If you don’t know the wines of Rioja, this is the perfect starting point.
MARQUÉS DE MURRIETA FINCA YGAY RESERVA 2005, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #209148; Price: $24.95; 14.0% ABV
A classic Rioja Alta wine! A blend of Tempranillo (84%), Garnacha (13%), and Mazuelo (3%). A step up from Crianza, Riojan Reservas spend more time aging, both in the barrel and in the bottle. The grape selection should be better too. Fermentation on its skins for 8 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged 22 months in American oak (8 months in new oak), then kept in the bottle for 12 months before release.
Sparkling
JANSZ PREMIUM CUVÉE NV, Tasmania; #566828; Price: $24.95; 12.5% ABV
A classic blend of Chardonnay (58%), Pinot Noir (40%) and Pinot Meunier (2%) from cool climate Tasmania. Made in the traditional méthode Champenoise, or as they say at Jansz, the Méthode Tasmaniose: the wines go through secondary fermentation in bottles and aged on yeast lees for as long as possible (average two years). Good value on ya, mate!
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