(Read Part 1 here)
(Read Part 2 here)
The Wineries of Hillier
Many of the “older” wineries in Prince Edward County are located in the western end
of the County, north and west of Wellington ,
around Hillier and Rosehall. The
wineries have modern tasting rooms with mostly knowledgeable, but often jaded,
staff.
The Old Third: They only make Pinot Noir here but that
focus is rewarded. We bought the 2009
($35), which offers cherry aromas with a touch of floral. Interesting minerality on the palate. Contrasts nicely with other County Pinot Noir
with its medium acidity.
Closson Chase:
This is probably the best-known PEC winery and one of the first. Upscale tasting room in an old barn but the
tasting staff is unfriendly with a haughty attitude, which is always a turnoff. You’re in PEC, folks, not Bordeaux …lose the attitude. The good news is that Closson Chase offered 2
Chardonnays (their specialty) and a Pinot Noir from the County. The CCV Chardonnay 2009 ($25) showed red
apple and peach on the palate with refreshing acidity that transitions to a
buttery finish. The 2009 South Clos
Chardonnay ($40) had red apple and lemon flavours, softer acidity with that
same butter finish. The 2009 Pinot Noir
($40) reminded me of an Oregon-style Pinot Noir, featuring bright red cherry on
the palate. It’s high in acidity,
somewhat bitter and green, suggesting some under ripe fruit. The best value was the CCV Chardonnay, but I
couldn’t get past the attitude and left empty-handed.
Rosehall Run:
Here’s a winery that focuses on VQA PEC wines and keeps the prices down.
So it can be done! We tried
several wines but, somewhat bizarrely, they had recently painted the tasting
room and the fumes made wine appreciation a test. There were 2 people working in the tasting
room, a friendly and knowledgeable guy and a woman who was auditioning for a
job at Closson Chase. We started with –
and bought – the 2008 Cuvée County Chardonnay ($30), which showed citrus and white
peach on the palate, with vanilla on the finish. Of the reds that we tried (Gamay, Cabernet
Franc, and Pinot Noir), we liked the 2008 Cuvée County Pinot Noir ($20) with
its red fruit, floral note, and medium acidity.
Definitely one of my favourites for a return visit.
Huff Estates:
Huff has the most strikingly modern tasting room in PEC. The 2008 South Bay Chardonnay ($30) offers more
on the nose than it delivers in taste:
rich citrus, peach, and pear aromas but thin flavours with too sharp acidity
on the back palate. The 2010 Pinot Gris
($20) was a revelation with citrus and white flower aromas, lemon-lime
flavours, and fresh acidity and minerality.
Maybe it was after tasting so much Chardonnay (yawn) but with this wine, I began to think that PEC wineries should focus their attention on
Pinot Gris. We bought a bottle of this
wine to bring home but drank it at the B&B that night! The 2009 Pinot Noir ($25) showed sour red
cherry on the nose but was thin and acidic on the palate.
The Grange of Prince Edward: A winery that’s in a beautiful setting and it’s
obviously popular with tourists. Too bad
that the staff lacks knowledge about the product. The wines that we tasted were uniformly
disappointing and, at least in the ones that we tasted, the wines were already
so far over the hill that they shouldn’t still be on the shelves.
Hillier wineries worth a visit: The Old Third, Rosehall Run, Huff Estates –
for the Pinot Gris – and (next time for me) Hinterland.
Next up...the wines of Marysburgh.
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Next up...the wines of Marysburgh.
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