SANTA MARGHERITA MERLOT/CABERNET CUVÉE ROSÉ 2009

SANTA MARGHERITA MERLOT/CABERNET CUVÉE ROSÉ 2009, IGT Veneto (Italy); #167692; Price: $14.95; 12.5% ABV

Metallic pink colour, aromas of pink grapefruit, strawberry, rhubarb, and cranberry, with floral notes, green beans, and minerality.  Crisp acidity, the rhubarb hits the palate first and it's the pink grapefruit that continues through to the almost tart finish.  Medium-bodied.  I liked it in spite of myself.

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TERREDORA LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ROSSO 2007

TERREDORA LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ROSSO 2007, DOC Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio (Campania, Italy); #93088; Price: $18.95; 13.0% ABV

Another of those uncommon Italian varietals, 100% Piedirosso, from the largest producer in Campania. Handpicked. 6 days maceration. Aged 8 months in French oak.  Red ruby in colour, the aromas reminded me of a Languedoc red:  lots of garrigue (dried herbs, rosemary), pine, tar, as well as smoky bacon, minerality, red cherry and cassis.  The fruit aromas are subtle.  Lively acidity and grippy tannins punch you in the mouth, with flavours of pine, bacon, and sun-dried cherry.  Medium-bodied, it's unusual with the grippy tannins and dried herb flavours overwhelming the fruit through to a medium-long finish.  Could work with grilled lamb with a tomato-based salsa.

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My Picks: Vintages Release -- June 26

Here’s my shopping list for the Vintages Release on June 26.

Biodynamic & Organic

M. CHAPOUTIER LES VIGNES DE BILA-HAUT 2008; AC Côtes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #168716; Price: $15.00; 13.5% ABV

I love Roussy. Shows what a good Biodynamic wine can be from a dedicated, talented, and idiosyncratic producer. A blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan. An incredible bargain. Have it with lamb on the grill.

LAS LOMAS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2007, Maule Valley (Chile); #917922; Price: $12.95; 13.5% ABV

The producer, Viña Lomas de Cauquenes, is a co-operative in Maule Valley, one of the more southerly wine regions in Chile, established in 1939 after an earthquake destroyed many wineries. Only 3 percent of their production is devoted to growing organic grapes, so they need the encouragement. No agrochemicals, fertilizer, or pesticides. Certified by IMO-Switzerland. Ideal for the BBQ, either with the food or just to keep your chef going.

Off the Beaten Track

Rosés

YALUMBA THE Y SERIES SANGIOVESE ROSÉ 2009, South Australia; #169425; Price: $15.95; 11.5% ABV

Yalumba works with all kinds of lesser-known varietals: Viognier, Tempranillo, and here is Sangiovese, a long way from its home in Tuscany, and a rosé at that! Macerated for 12 hours, then cold fermented. A refreshingly light-bodied rosé; perfect for a hot summer day.

LA BASTIDE BLANCHE ROSÉ 2009, AC Bandol; #71084; Price: $21.95; 13.2% ABV

A blend of Cinsault, Mourvèdre, and Grenache. The winemaker macerates the Cinsault and Grenache for 24 hours while the Mourvèdre is bled off from juice that goes on to become the famous red wine of Bandol. Aged in stainless steel.

Reds

URBAN UCO MALBEC/TEMPRANILLO 2008, Uco Valley (Argentina); #166397; Price: $12.95; 14.5% ABV

A 50-50 blend. The winemaker is from Spain, so they come by their love of Tempranillo honestly. Fermented in stainless steel and aged 3 months in (mostly French) oak.

E. GUIGAL 2006, AC Saint-Joseph (Rhone, France); #30031; Price: $29.95; 13.5% ABV

King Guigal of Rhone. Saint-Joseph is a lesser-known appellation from Northern Rhone (western bank). It’s 100% Syrah, aged 16 months in previously used oak barrels. Taste the difference quality makes.

CLOS LA COUTALE 2007, AC Cahors (France); #171579; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV

A blend of 80% Cot (the local name for Malbec) and 20% Merlot. Cahors wine has long lived in the shadow of Bordeaux, just to the west. Known for deep, almost black colour, concentrated flavours, and great body. It defines rustic. Definitely a wine to put away for next winter.

MARCHESI DI BAROLO DOCG BARBARESCO 2006, Piedmont (Italy); #155408; Price: $24.95; 12.0% ABV

Barbaresco...the other great red from Piemonte (after its bigger brother, Barolo); it’s also made from the Nebbiolo varietal, but gets less aging and is usually ready to drink earlier, say 5 to 10 years after harvest. It’s not for next winter; it’s for the winter after that, or after that. Patience! For this one, the grapes were hand-harvested, with just 8 days maceration. Aged for one year in both Slovenian oak and French oak, so it’s a bit old style and new style. Aged 18 months in bottle before market release.

Whites

DANIEL LENKO UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2007, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #91173; Price: $20.15; 13.0% ABV

Lots of buzz about the Niagara reds from 2007. But the chardonnays merit attention and this one is unoaked, so it gets my attention. Long, cold fermentation and then aged on its lees (spent yeast).  Happy Canada Day!

AMAYNA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Leyda Valley (Chile); #77693; Price: $17.95; 14.5% ABV

Leyda Valley is 14 km from the coast, west of Santiago. The maritime climate makes for wonderful Sauvignon Blanc. And this is from one of the better producers. Hand picked. Fermented in stainless steel for 10 days and left on the lees for 2 months. Try it with shellfish and grilled trout.

ST. HALLETT SEMILLON 2005, Barossa (Australia); #658005; Price: $19.95; 11.5% ABV

Just when I think there are too many high-alcohol wines, here’s something lighter…and from Oz! One-quarter fermented in stainless-steel, the rest in both French and American oak, allocated among new, one, and three-year old barrels. Wow, talk about hedging your bets. Two-thirds of the wine left on its lees for 10 months. Good to drink now but Semillon can age well…this one up to 2013. Don’t miss this chance at a Semillon.

I go on about the wonderful dry white wines that are coming out of Italy, especially the south (Campania, Sicily) and the northeast (Veneto, Alto-Adige, Friuli). For my twelfth selection, try one of these Italian whites in this release:

• VESEVO FALANGHINA 2008, DOC Sannio (Campania); #51698; Price: $15.95; 13.0% ABV

• VILLA ANGELA PECORINO 2008, DOC Offida (Marche); #173252; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV

• PRINCIPESSA GAVIA 2009, DOCG Gavi (Piemonte); #250696; Price: $19.95; 12.0% ABV

• TERRE DI GIUMARA GRECANICO 2009, IGT Sicilia; #174961; Price: $11.95; 13.5% ABV

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If It Seems Too Good to be True...

Slate has an excellent article by Mike Steinberger, author of Au Revoir to All That, on [allegedly] counterfeit wines. 

Worth reading.

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My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives -- June 18

Here’s my shopping list for this week’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.  The folks at Vintages were late with this week's release.  Watching World Cup matches can be a real time sucker, eh?

GUICCIARDINI STROZZI CUSONA 1933 2008, DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Tuscany, Italy); #172726; 13% ABV; $25
They used to say that Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the only good white wine from Italy. No longer true, bit here’s a chance to find out why that used to be the case. 100% Vernaccia, a local varietal. Known for crisp acidity and a nicely bitter finish. In this case, they concentrate the flavours by drying the grapes before fermentation.

MAYOR DE ONDARRE RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #169094; 13% ABV; $22
A blend of Tempranillo and Mazuelo (Carinena). Four weeks in fermentation vats with pumping over daily. Malolactic fermentation. It’s Reserva so that’s 3 years of aging, at least one year in oak casks. Decanting recommended.

PLANETA COMETA 2008, IGT Sicilia (Italy); #031047; 14% ABV; $35
100% Fiano, one of those superb white varietals from the south of Italy. This one is from a relatively new winery in Sicily. Fermented in stainless steel. Look for exotic fruits, dried herbs, and minerality. Should be excellent with seafood.

RAMÓN BILBAO LIMITED EDITION CRIANZA 2006, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #168666; 14% ABV; $18
100% Tempranillo, aged 14 months in American oak, followed by 8 months in the bottle before release. A classic Rioja red. One of their vineyards is La Cañada, so why not?

TENUTA DI SESTA 2007, DOC Rosso di Montalcino (Italy); #172775; 14% ABV; $22
Here’s another chance to pick up Rosso di Montalcino from a great vintage. Hooked on Chianti? Try this instead. Made from Sangiovese Grosso, the same varietal used to make the “older brother”: Brunello. Manuel harvest. Aged for 10 months in 20-hectolitre Slovenian oak barrels, 2 months in stainless steel vats, and two months in bottle.  Ready to drink now.

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Golf and Celebrity Wine

What is it about wine that attracts so many famous golfers to put their name on a label? Greg Norman, Nick Faldo, and Mike Weir all have had their wines in the LCBO/Vintages. Ernie Els has his own winery in South Africa. Now the Golden Bear, Jack Nicklaus, is putting his name on some Napa Valley wines produced by Terlato Wines. The target market for these wines is golf clubs and resorts in the US, so don't hold your breath seeing them here.

As someone who’s into wine and golf in a big way, I can see the attraction. Both have gurus who promise, “If you only do it my way, success is guaranteed”. Both winemakers and golfers are always seeking to become better, adjusting this, fiddling with that, hoping that perfection, even for a moment (or a vintage) is just around the corner. And then, after a great vintage, or a great round, you start over again.

Both golf and wine have an “Old World” and a “New World” approach. In wine, the Old World approach emphasizes the letting the vineyard and terroir express itself; the winemaker is there to help that happen. The New World approach puts the winemaker firmly in charge to correct nature’s mistakes and provide a consistent, even homogenized product. (I’m betraying my bias here.)

US PGA tournament courses exemplify New World golf courses: perfect fairways, immaculate greens, nature’s flaws erased. In a word, predictable. Old World golf lets nature’s “imperfections” be part of the experience. And in both golf and wine, you’ll find the Old World approach in the New World and vice versa.

Finally, golf and wine are two things that have tried to shake off their traditionally snobby reps. Many people know only the upscale, intimidating versions of golf and wine. Not all of the snobbery has been stripped away (let’s face it, that’s what attracts some people to both) but both wine and golf are more easily accessible today.

But do you buy celebrity wines? A wine with a golfer’s name (or an actor’s name) on the label? Celebrity endorsements, outside of their expertise, are a puzzle to me. Sure, if Mike Weir is your absolute favourite golfer, why not? Otherwise, I wouldn’t buy a wine with a golfer’s name on the label, any more than I would buy Mondavi golf clubs or Gaja golf balls.

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Takin' It Slow

We try to make the most of summer: lots of golf, every dinner out on the patio with cooking on the grill, all weather permitting. Like most couples I know, the grill is the domain of the man of the house (yes, another of Dave’s domains)…well, OK, the prep is Michèle’s job but the grill is mine.

Most of our grill cooking is fast and furious. High heat, quick results. But I’ve wanted to try some more slow cooking out there. When I saw David Lee’s recipe for slow-cooked honey-garlic-rosemary ribs in the Globe last month, I knew I had my first full effort, including all the prep. The bonus is that Chef Lee (David Lee…you have to like that name) made the recipe grill-friendly.

The good news? Ribs are one of those foods that are quite awful if not cooked properly. But when cooked well, they are wonderful. These ribs were real...and they were [almost] spectacular.

But I can still do better. For us, the recipe needed more garlic. And salt and pepper. (I still don't have enough experience as a cook that I automatically add salt and pepper. You must tell me this stuff.) I had a lot of trouble getting the apple wood chips to smoke sufficiently using a smoker box, but I got that figured out now. Just make sure you get the smoker box right on top of the flame source to get it smokin’. And you won't need four cups of wood chips.  Temperature is important for slow-cooking, so use a thermometer inside the grill; don’t rely on the temperature on the lid of the grill. (My lid thermometer showed a temperature that was a good 50 degrees higher than the reading inside the grill.)  It's easy to check the temperature when you turn the ribs every 20 minutes, and adjust as necessary. 

The other great thing about slow-cooking is that it’s a wonderful way to while away an afternoon. Cooking these ribs takes about 3 ½ hours, turning the ribs every 20 minutes. So puttering around the patio, catching up on my reading, it’s very relaxed. I’m hooked.

For the wine, I chose a Zinfandel, which I love with ribs. Black cherry and raspberry, cassis, bit of pepper and some chocolate. 15.5% ABV! But you’ve a few more options from the family of full-bodied reds: Tempranillo & Malbec (both Spain and Argentina have a culture of slow-cooked and grilled meat), Sangiovese, Syrah…these are all good choices. And with the rosemary in this recipe, you can go with something from Languedoc.

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Recently Tasted

I've had 2 good rosés so far this season... Otherwise, the rosés are notable for a lack of fruit and acidity.

CHÂTEAU VAL JOANIS TRADITION SYRAH ROSÉ 2009, AC Luberon (France); #707281; Price: $14.95; 13.0% ABV

The best rosé of a (so far) disappointing season. A blend of Syrah and Grenache, using the Saignée method. Red currant and rhubarb aromas, with some floral notes. Same red fruits on the palate, with a good peppery bite. Medium-bodied, good, refreshing acidity, which is a must-have for rosé.




MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2009, VQA Niagara Escarpment (Ontario); #559088; Price: $15.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Cabernet Franc (86%), Gamay (11.5%), and Pinot Noir (2.5%). I tasted this one twice. Initially disappointing, I had to give it a second chance because it’s been good in previous years. Better second time around: Bright medium pink in colour, it had a cough syrup aroma that blows off. Rhubarb compote, cranberry, watermelon, red currant, bit of strawberry and floral. Nice tangy-tart acidity, with flavours of watermelon, red currant and then the rhubarb at the back end.

A good white and a good red...

DOMAINE LECOMTE QUINCY 2008, AC Quincy (France); #172528; Price: $18.95; 13.5% ABV

Ah, Sauvignon Blanc from its traditional home. This shows up many New Zealand efforts. Aromas of lemon-lime zest, cutgrass and hay, wet stone minerality, some tangerine and white grapefruit, with an undertone of papaya and red apple. Medium-high acidity, with lime, tangerine, and white grapefruit on the palate. Medium-bodied, it has great acidity that rounds off a bit, so it may be in a transition as it ages.

CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN LA GRANGE DES COMBES 2007, AC Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun (Languedoc, France); #155804; Price: $16.95; 14.2% ABV

Deep ruby with lots of aromas:  blackberry, black cherry, bit of prune, dried herbs, leather and smoke, anise and pepper.  Good acidity and chalky tannins that provide structure for the blackbbery, cherry, pepper and leather (yes, leather) flavours.  Full-bodied with moderate length.  Good value.  Try it with ribs on the BBQ.

Here are other recent tastings that just haven’t impressed me at all.

DOMAINE DU PETIT COTEAU LES GRENOUILLES SEC VOUVRAY 2008, AC Vouvray, France; #106815; Price: $16.95; 13.0% ABV

Made from Chenin Blanc. Oxydized aromas of spoiled apples and wet cardboard that overwhelm the quince aroma.  Abrupt change on the palate with lemon-lime and tangy acidity.  Long finish...but hold your nose.

MAS BELLES EAUX COLLECTION LANGUEDOC ROSÉ 2009; Vin de Pays D’Oc (France); #117358; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV

Just not much here in aromas or flavours.

CASA DO VALLE VINHO VERDE ROSÉ 2009, DOC Vinho Verde (Portugal); #167478; Price: $11.95; 12.5% ABV

Deep pink.  Aromas of red currant, strawberry and roses.  Bitter, stemmy, under-ripe flavours on the palate.  Spritzy too.  Weird.

MARQUÉS DE VALCARLOS ROSADO 2009, DO Navarra; #167239; Price: $11.95; 12.9% ABV

A blend of Tempranillo and Merlot. Lacks fruit.

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My Picks: Vintages Release -- June 12

Here’s my shopping list for the Vintages Release on June 12.  The focus is on South Africa, but I only found one wine that met my criteria.  Lots of BBQ-worthy wines available and good selections from Italy.

Organic

WESTERN RANGE JULIMAR ORGANIC SHIRAZ 2007, Western Australia; #165951; Price: $ 24.95; 14.5% ABV
This Shiraz comes from the Perth Hills Region on the west coast of Australia, a region with a reputation for quality over quantity. Their climate is Mediterranean, with cool, wet winters and warm dry summers with cold nights, favouring slow ripening. Western Range Wines is certified for the production of organic wines by the “National Association for Sustainable Agriculture, Australia” and the "International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movements". Trips off the tongue, doesn’t it?

Off the Beaten Track

MORGENHOF ESTATE CHENIN BLANC 2008, WO Simonsberg-Stellenbosch (South Africa); #978544; Price: $14.95; 13.5% ABV
South Africa is coming back to Chenin Blanc. In the bad old days, South Africa produced lakes of insipid Chenin Blanc. The pendulum swung away from Chenin Blanc (justifiably) but gradually it dawned on producers that they could produce good Chenin Blanc, rather than switching everything over to the international varietals. Morgenhof is a highly regarded producer. They fermented half the wine in oak barrels, half in stainless steel, then aged 7 months in French oak. Look for citrus and tree fruits, with typical acidity. Should be great with grilled seafood.

MUROS ANTIGOS ESCOLHA VINHO VERDE 2009, DOC Vinho Verde (Portugal); #166710; Price: $11.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Alvarinho, known in Spain as Albarino. Fermented in stainless steel. Crisp acidity, it’s another great wine for the summer. Perfect as an aperitif, or with some grilled seafood on the BBQ, even some oysters!

D'ARENBERG THE MONEY SPIDER ROUSSANNE 2008, McLaren Vale (Australia); #656710; Price: $19.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Roussanne, a varietal originally from the Rhone Valley, probably brought to Australia at the same time as Shiraz. At first, I though this was a misprint…they meant spider monkey? Turns out there are money spiders, and they covered the first crop of Roussanne at D’Arenberg. No, they didn't crush the spiders with the grapes. Roussanne is known for floral, tree fruit, tropical fruit, minerality, and wax aromas. No oak!

LIBRANDI DUCA SAN FELICE RISERVA ROSSO 2007, DOC Ciro (Calabria, Italy); #695874; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Gaglioppo, the dominant red varietal of Calabria (the toe of the Italian boot), known for its spicy aroma. The Greeks introduced Gaglioppo’s ancestor here 2000 years ago. It’s usually rustic, ideal for some grilled meat on the BBQ!

TERREDORA LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ROSSO 2007, DOC Lacryma Christi Del Vesuvio (Campania, Italy); #93088; Price: $18.95; 13.0% ABV
When I was a kid, Lacryma Christi (because of its name, Tears of Christ) had a certain cachet, but it was a cheap way to get a buzz. Today, it’s an illustration of how much improvement the winemakers of Campania have made. Another of those uncommon Italian varietals, 100 % Piedirosso, from the largest producer in Campania. Handpicked. 6 days maceration. Aged 8 months in French oak. Look for aromas of red and black fruit, minerality, smoke, spices, and dried herbs.

TAURINO SALICE SALENTINO ROSSO RISERVA 2006, DOC Salice Salento (Puglia, Italy); #177527; Price: $15.95; 14.0% ABV
The region’s standard blend of 80% Negroamaro – means black and bitter – and Malvasia Nera (20%). Good grippy tannins. Another timely BBQ wine.

TOCCHI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 2004, DOCG Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, Italy); #174664; Price: $18.95; 14.4% ABV
Hmmm, a Sagrantino (that’s the varietal) for $19? A bargain from a winery that started in 2000. Handpicked. Aged 25 months in oak. A wine for aging.

TORRES GRAN SANGRE DE TORO RESERVA 2005, DO Catalunya (Spain); #315648; Price: $15.95; 13.5% ABV
Excellent value from one of the most reliable producers in Spain. A blend of Garnacha, Cariñena and Syrah.  Yup, great with BBQ!

Rosé

So far this year, the Rosé wines have been mostly disappointing.  Let's hope that these ones have more to offer.

DOMAINE HOUCHART ROSÉ 2009, AC Cotes de Provence (France); #118653; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Cold maceration for 24 hours, the varietals are vinified separately, then blended. Bone-dry, as I like it.

DOMAINE MABY LA FORCADIÈRE ROSÉ TAVEL 2009, AC Tavel (Rhone, France); #701318; Price: $15.95; 13.5% ABV
Here’s a chance to try another rosé from Tavel, considered the best rosé in France. A blend of mostly Grenache Noir and Cinsault, with Bourboulenc, Carignan, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. Look for cherry and floral aromas. Yes, bone-dry.

SANTA MARGHERITA MERLOT/CABERNET CUVÉE ROSÉ 2009, IGT Veneto (Italy); #167692; Price: $14.95; 12.5% ABV
From the producers of that ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. They vinify the two varietals separately; maceration of 36 hours, then fermented in stainless steel, followed by Malolactic Fermentation (hmmm), then aging in stainless steel tanks, then the blending.

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Poggio Antico…and a Word about Terroir

We spent a superb Sunday evening at DiVino Wine Studio, meeting up with an old “winery friend”.

First, some background. Back in '93, while living in Germany, Michèle and I spent 2 weeks on vacation in Tuscany. One of our primary goals on the trip was to buy up lots of Chianti and Brunello. Tuscany was coming off two stunning vintages: 1990 and 1988. We had a “hit list” of wineries to visit and wines to buy.

A couple of years earlier, we had heard about a small new winery in Montalcino that was making some great Brunello. Its name was Poggio Antico. So one day we drove the 2 hours to Montalcino. Oh, so worth the drive! We arrived at Poggio Antico a little before lunch and, as luck would have it, the winery had a restaurant, which was a new idea in those days. After a fabulous lunch, with a bottle of Poggio Antico’s Brunello Riserva (1985, I think), we made our way to the shop and bought up some 1990 Brunello, 1990 Rosso, and 1988 Riserva. Sadly, all those wines are long gone but we had many wonderful meals with them. Ever since, we’ve had a soft spot in our hearts for Poggio Antico and its wines.

So when I got an e-mail from DiVino Wine Studio about a Meet the Winemaker Dinner with…Poggio Antico (!)…we didn’t need to think twice about grabbing a couple of spots.

Antonio Mauriello, owner of DiVino Wine Studio (and one of my instructors in the Sommelier program), hosted the dinner. As always, the atmosphere at DiVino was warm and relaxed. Paola Gloder, owner and winemaker of Poggio Antico, talked about her personal history at Poggio Antico, their approach to making wine, and running a business (which is what winemaking is). As luck would have it, we ended up sitting with Paola throughout dinner, sharing memories of our visit to Poggio Antico and learning more about the winery and her winemaking.

After we started our evening with Crostini and a glass of Prosecco, the wonderful (and affordable) dry sparkling wine from Veneto, we sat down to taste the wines of Poggio Antico, matched with dishes prepared by the talented kitchen staff of DiVino.

We started with Madre 2007 IGT, 13.5% ABV. Madre is 50% Sangiovese Grosso and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s Poggio Antico’s entry in the “Super Tuscan” category. The two wines in this blend are fermented and aged separately; aging is in 500-litre new French oak barrels. After blending and bottling, the wine is aged another 8 months before release. Although the wine is still a bit closed, the Sangiovese characteristics dominate this blend. Aromas of blackberries, black cherry, cassis, dried herbs, liquorice, clove, and coffee. Black fruits on the palate, with medium acidity. The tannins were quite chalky, even drying. I think a couple of more years of aging will soften these tannins. Impressive length and a good match with Pici pasta with a savoury Mariposa duck ragu.

Next up were Poggio Antico’s two Brunellos, served side-by-side:  Brunello di Montalcino 2005 DOCG, 13.5% ABV and Altero Brunello di Montalcino 2005 DOCG, 13.5% ABV. They’re both Brunello, both 100% Sangiovese Grosso but they’re aged differently, although both meet the DOCG requirements for Brunello. I’ll call the first one, Classic Brunello and the second one, Altero Brunello.

The Classic Brunello is aged 3 years in large Slovenian oak barrels, followed by 12 months in bottle before release. Black cherry, blackberry, tobacco, coffee, and leather all show up on the nose. The black fruits and a hint of coffee on the taste, with medium acidity and soft, well-integrated tannins. Wonderful length and balance. Indeed, a classic Brunello. I love it.

The Altero Brunello (Altero means self-confident) is aged for 2 years in 500-litre French oak barrels, followed by a minimum of 2 years in bottle before release. Aromas of black cherry, dried herbs, liquorice, and minerality. The fruit is front and centre on the palate. More acidity than the Classic Brunello and some heat at the back end. Good length.

I found that the Altero Brunello worked well on its own but the Classic Brunello (my preference) was better with the accompanying food: rabbit and chicken braised in Sangiovese, orange, and olives, with duck fat rosemary roasted potatoes, market fresh garlic kale and spinach, and grilled asparagus.

Our dinner concluded with Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 DOCG, 13.5% ABV. Poggio Antico makes its Riserva in only the better vintages from 100% Sangiovese Grosso that comes from its oldest and lowest-altitude vineyard. It's aged 1 year in new French oak, then 2 ½ years in Slovenian oak, then 18 months in bottle before release. A powerful nose of black cherry, roasted coffee, tobacco, and chocolate. Good acidity and tannins that have not quite softened enough. But when they get there with a bit more aging, this will be a fantastic wine. Accompanied by Pecorino wines and honey, but this is what Antonio Mauriello calls a “meditation wine”: wonderful on its own.

Some good news for the future: 2009 was a wonderful vintage in Montalcino and the wines show great promise. Also, look for wines from 2007, another great vintage in Montalcino.

Just before Paola left Ottawa to drive to Toronto, I asked her if there’s a word in Italian for terroir. She said they use the same word. “Terroir is everything to us in Brunello. Each piece of land has its own characteristics that produce a unique wine. Of course, the winemaker has a role to play. We make decisions about where to plant, when to harvest, controlling fermentation, what oak to age the wine in and for how long, but it’s the terroir that makes the wine.”

To me, it’s very symbiotic, as demonstrated by the difference in the two Brunello wines that we tasted. Similar in character, each was unmistakably Brunello and, probably, unmistakably Poggio Antico. But the “intervention” of Paola, in the different ways that she aged the two wines, created twins with dissimilar personalities. By nature, they’re twins; by nurture, they’re unique.

Get in touch with Halpern to order Poggio Antico wines in Ontario.

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Bordeaux Futures & The Future of Bordeaux

When I was in France last autumn, the word was already out about the 2009 vintage. In much of France, perfect weather throughout the growing season led to optimism and excitement about the quality of the crop in Languedoc, Rhone, and (especially) Bordeaux. Enthusiasm and, inevitably, hype about the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux continued through the winter into spring, reaching a peak during “Futures Week” in Bordeaux, held at the beginning of April.

Futures Week allows the big critics (Parker, Wine Spectator, Robinson, Decanter) to taste the big wines in cask; that is, before they’re bottled. More importantly for the Bordeaux wine trade, it kicks off sales of the wine, before bottling, to retailers and consumers. (It’s supposed to be win/win: the consumer gets prestigious wines at a lower price than will prevail when the wine hits the market after bottling. And the winemaker gets cash inflow well before bottling.)

This year’s Futures Week was frenzied. Parker, a master of hype, generally conceded to be the world’s most influential wine critic, declared that the 2009 vintage “may turn out to be the finest vintage I have tasted in 32 years of covering Bordeaux”. (Or may not?) Within three weeks, the wine media reported predictions that prices of the 2009 Bordeaux First Growths (e.g., Lafite-Rothschild) would reach $1,500 a bottle. Gulp! Well, then again, gulp not. I still have the first book about wine that I ever bought, Hugh Johnson’s Wine Companion, published in 1983. In it, he lists prices for First Growth wines from the 1980 vintage. Thirty years ago, First Growths cost about $23 a bottle.

Yes, drinking fine wine has become a global passion and prices have (cliché alert) skyrocketed.  Mr Demand, meet Miss Supply.  But it also shows how much speculation and status-seeking have warped the marketplace.

Unless you’re über-rich, Bordeaux First Growths are way out of reach. And even the Super Second wines of Bordeaux are pushed to ridiculous prices for many consumers. Aye, there's the rub for Bordeaux. Thanks to those speculators and status-seekers, the best of Bordeaux is out of reach. And the rest of Bordeaux that shows up here is Vin very Ordinaire: too often over-priced for lesser quality than wines from other regions at the same price.  That's not just a New World reaction to Bordeaux (check out my conversation with Sergio Calderon from Bras.)

Me? I still love you, Bordeaux. At your best, you’re complex and refined. And I’ll keep looking for good value from Bordeaux, although it’s rare! Hey, Bordeaux Futures? Enjoy life among the speculators. Winedrinkers have moved on; for them, Bordeaux is irrelevant.

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My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives -- June 2

Here’s my shopping list for this week’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.

ALOIS LAGEDER HABERLE PINOT BIANCO 2008, DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige (Italy); #169102; 13% ABV; $24
100% Pinot Bianco (do I have to say Pinot Blanc…oder weissburgunder?) A wonderful summer wine…great as an aperitif, or with grilled asparagus or seafood. Large temperature variation between day and night during the growing season should make for crisp acidity. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks, followed by maturation on the lees for 4 months. One of Alto-Adige’s best-known producers, he does some biodynamic wines, but this is not one of them.

LE G DE CHÂTEAU GUIRAUD 2008, AC Bordeaux Blanc Sec (France); #166793; 13% ABV; $22
Interesting, this is a dry white wine from a Sauternes producer. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (70%) and Semillon (30%). As with Sauternes, the producer handpicks the grapes, looking for ripe but not mouldy grapes (the mouldy grapes go into the Sauternes). Fermented for 2 weeks in barrels previously used for the Sauternes, then barrel-aged for 9 months, regularly stirring the lees for the first 4 months. Good, affordable Bordeaux Blanc is all too rare. G, better get some.

VILLA MATILDE FALERNO DEL MASSICO BIANCO 2008, DOC Falerno del Massico (Campania, Italy); #167817; 12% ABV; $24
100% Falanghina, one of those wonderful white varietals from southern Italy. Fermentation starts with a cold soak (juice left on grape-skins at low temperature), then 15-day fermentation after they remove the skins. Aged in stainless steel for 3 months. Look for ripe tree fruits and minerality. Might want to put this one away for a few years.

DOMAINE FAIVELEY CLOS DES MYGLANDS MERCUREY 1ER CRU 2007, AC Mercurey (France); #172742; 14% ABV; $34
Gonna buy myself a Mercurey. From a somewhat lesser known area of the Cote D’Or, the Cote Chalonnaise is the place to go for good, affordable Burgundy. Clos des Myglands is a monopole, meaning Faiveley owns all of it (all 6 hectares). They press the grapes on-site, and then bring the wine to Nuits-Saint-Georges where they age it in light-toast oak barrels (one-third new) for 14 to 16 months. And Faiveley is a famous producer…just ask Robert Parker.

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