Judgement at Algonquin

Of all the ways that I can think of spending a Monday evening, judging 13 different wine and food matches, put together by students of the Wine and Food Matching course at Algonquin College, ranks high on my list.  All that’s required in return is that I offer my opinion on the merits on each match and award a medal to deserving participants.  Easy peasy.

So when the course instructor – Liam Doody – again invited me to be one of the judges for the Wine and Food Matching final exam, I happily accepted, because not only is it fun but it means I didn’t screw it up the last time.  (You can read about my previous experience here.)

For the final exam of the Wine and Food Matching course, teams of students prepare a food dish and match it with the wine that they think works best.  The teams submit a paper that describes why they chose the food dish, how they chose the matching wine, and why they think this match is the best. 

The final exam isn’t just a paper exercise.  The teams must prepare the food dish, either at home beforehand or in the kitchen at Algonquin's Restaurant International, and serve it with their chosen wine for judging by recognized experts...like me.

After tasting each dish with its matching wine, the judges award "medals" based on the following criteria:

• Gold:
The wine and food pairing adds to the enjoyment of the wine AND the cuisine.

• Silver:
The wine and food pairing adds to either the enjoyment of the wine OR the cuisine, but not both.

• Bronze:
The wine and food pairing does not add to, nor detract from, the enjoyment of either the wine or the cuisine.

• No Certificate:
The wine and food pairing detracts from either, or both, the enjoyment of the wine or the cuisine.

My judging partner this time around was fellow sommelier, Geoffrey Skeggs, a man with fingers in many pies.  He founded the Beer course and the Whiskey course at Algonquin College and has his own company, Zymurgy Wines and Beers.  Geoffrey was also the judge when I completed the Wine and Food Matching course.  (Really, no hard feelings about that Silver Medal, Geoffrey.)  Geoffrey has considerably more judging experience than I do and it was a great evening as he brought his experience to the table, literally.  

Here are the interesting food and wine matches that we sampled and upon which we rendered our verdicts.  Outstanding efforts!

Mexican Vietnamese Summer Rolls with Cono Sur Viognier 2011
Pacific Rim 3-part harmony makes for a delicious app

Aloo Tikki with Studert-Pruem Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spaetlese 2007
Delicious Indian spice mellowed by soothing Mosel Riesling
Oui, aloo? Oui aloo!

Chicken Jalfrezi with Konzelmann Pinot Blanc 2010
A classic Indian dish matched with an underrated crisp summer wine...refreshing!

Carrot Ginger Soup with Toasted Head Chardonnay 2011
Rich soup meets richer Chardonnay...Trump that!

Roquefort and Green Apple Tart with Gisselbrecht Riesling 2010
This food-friendly Riesling hits the right notes with the roquefort...
...and the green apples...
...and the walnut crust. 

Cauliflower with Bechamel Sauce and added Gruyere Cheese with Collavini Prosecco NV
A surprisingly good match that fit the definition for a Gold Medal: each makes the other better

Gourmet Mac & Cheese with Sileni Pinot Noir 2011
You know what happens when you're 25 minutes late delivering your dish to the judge?
He forgets to take a photo. :-(  But he doesn't forget to taste...top-notch comfort food.

Spiced Flank Steak with Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Reserve 2009
Big Chewy Steak meets Big Chewy Wine
Who says there's no such thing as Canadian cuisine?

Greek Ribs with Clos La Coutale Cahors 2010
This rubbed me the right way.

BBQ Korean Beef with Red Knot Shiraz 2010
Classic combo...marinated grilled beef with a big bold Aussie Shiraz.  Always delicious.

Spetzofai, a classic Greek dish (Spicy sausages with tomato sauce and peppers) with Papaioannou Agiorgitiko 2007
There's a reason why regional dishes and wines work so well together...centuries of experience.  And it doesn't break the bank.

Pavlova with Bottega Petalo Il Vino dell'Amore Moscato NV
Wow...after all that meat this was a real treat.
A light refreshing dessert with a light refreshing sparkling.  I'm still dancing.

Pecan Pie with Yalumba Museum Reserve Muscat NV
Stunning!   It makes you want a whole pie and a bottle all to yourself.
Flavours and textures keep sending you back and forth between the pie and the wine.
Best in show!

                                                                         

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Hail Vic!

Long before I became a certified sommelier, when I was looking for guidance on what wines to buy at our local monopoly, winecurrent was one of my “go to” sources for good advice.

Even now, though I put together my own list (My Picks) for every release at Vintages, I still check out – after the fact – winecurrent’s reviews because I respect the unpretentious approach to evaluating wines.

Vic Harradine is the publisher and reviewer-in-chief of winecurrent.  In the local wine community, everyone knows Vic.  He’s a Past President of the National Capital Sommelier Guild and the Guild awarded Vic its prestigious Wine Person of the Year.  He’s also a founder of the Algonquin College Sommelier Program and its current Director of Partnerships and Outreach.  Vic is truly a pioneer in making wine appreciation accessible to many more people.

Of course, wine people well beyond the bounds of the National Capital Region also know Vic.

Vic is generous with advice, when asked.  I’ve asked Vic for his perspective on some issue or other a number of times, often trying to decipher the inner machinations of the LCBO, and Vic has always responded promptly.

This morning, the latest edition of winecurrent’s bi-weekly e-newsletter arrived in my Inbox.  In the introduction, Vic announced that winecurrent soon will publish its final edition.  Here’s Vic’s explanation:

Overall time constraints, plus recent changes to the tasting schedule of Vintages Releases caused me to re-evaluate priorities. The LCBO recently shortened considerably the access time allotted for tasting Vintages Release wines. This does not leave sufficient time in the 3½ hours now allotted to professionally taste, evaluate and write notes on those slated for review—there are +200 wines on offer. It would require multiple tastings to cover all wines properly. It’s also time for me to take on less, enjoying some downtime.     

Vic isn’t the only one who is perplexed by Vintages decision to shorten the time made available to taste wines before the release.  Vintages own Product Consultants – the men and women in white shirts whose job it is to advise customers about the products on the shelves – have also had their time for wine tasting cut back.  Why a retail operation that churns out $1.63 billion in profits sees the need to cut back on training time for its front-line staff is just one of the many customer-service puzzles at the LCBO.  (Some rainy day, I’ll do a rant on customer service at the LCBO…it won’t be pretty.)

I have no doubt that we’ll continue to see Vic at many an event where wine is the focus.  In the meantime, thanks, Vic, for many years of great wine buying advice!

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ June 23 2012

With the Humidex heading above 40 degrees this week, the theme of this week's release at Vintages is timely:  Refresher Course - Fine Wines for Summer Sipping.  As might be expected, it's a mixed bag of wines that Vintages considers ideal for drinking on the patio, at the cottage, or at a picnic.  Can't argue with any of their choices, but for My Picks, 3 stand out:  Biodynamic Gruener Veltliner from Austria, Pinot Grigio from north-east Italy, and Pouilly-Fumé (classic Sauvignon Blanc from Loire).

But there are a few other wines that fit that same category:  two delicious Italian Whites:  Greco di Tufo from Campania and Gavi from Piedmont.  Give them a try; you won't be disappointed.

The Reds offer some excellent wines that will match well with grilled meats as well as a couple that can be put down for winter fare.  Don't miss the Spanish garnacha, it's the best value.

The Rosé rollout continues with a delicious offer from BC.  Ideal for a Happy Canada Day!

Biodynamic

SOUTHBROOK TRIOMPHE CHARDONNAY 2010, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake; #117572; Price: $21.95; 13.1% ABV

100% Chardonnay.  Hand harvested.  They settled the juice in stainless steel tanks for 4 days, then transferred it to barrels for fermentation and Malolactic conversion over 4 months.  Aged in French oak barrels (various sizes).  Fined with bentonite and filtered.  Certified Biodynamic.

MEINKLANG GRÜNER VELTLINER 2010, Burgenland (Austria); #219014; Price: $15.95; 11.5% ABV

Grüner Veltliner is the signature white grape variety of Austria; known for its citrus and white pepper character. This is a certified Biodynamic wine from the homeland of Rudolf Steiner, the father of Biodynamics. The winery belongs to a mixed-production farm that produces a number of different crops. Try it with grilled whitefish.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

MAISON FOUCHER LA VIGNE AUX SANDRES 2010, AC Pouilly Fumé (Loire); #277350; Price: $20.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Cold fermentation in vats for 15 days.   Aged on its lees in used French oak barrels for 8 months.  Try it with smoked salmon.  Pouilly-Fumé sets the standard for Loire Sauvignon Blanc.

TIEFENBRUNNER PINOT GRIGIO 2011, DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige (Italy); #954024; Price: $17.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Pinot Grigio.  Fermented in stainless steel tanks.  Aged on its lees for 4 months in stainless steel tanks and concrete vats.  Filtered.  Ideal with grilled whitefish.  This is how Pinot Grigio should taste.  Capable of aging for 5 years.

TERREDORA LOGGIA DELLA SERRA 2010, DOCG Greco di Tufo (Campania, Italy); #983197; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Greco, one of the indigenous white varietal wines from Italy that improves year over year and so deserves more attention than it’s getting.  Fermented at cool temperatures using selected yeasts. Aged on its lees in stainless steel.  No oak.  With its lime flavours and minerality, it’s ideal with grilled seafood.  Buy 2:  drink one now and keep the other for 3-5 years.

MICHELE CHIARLO LE MARNE GAVI 2011, DOCG Gavi (Piedmont, Italy); #228528; Price: $14.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Cortese.  Yes, another indigenous Italian white.  Fermented with indigenous yeasts that come from the Cortese grapes themselves.   Typically has aromas of white flowers and freshly baked bread.  This one's also great with seafood off the grill.  Drink within 2 years.

Reds

WILDASS RED 2008, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #86363; Price: $19.95; 12.5% ABV

A blend of – wait for it – Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Gamay, Syrah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Tannat, and Mourvèdre.  Yup, 11.  Maceration for 42 days.  Aged 620 days in French oak barrels (22% new).  Drink now.  Try it with grilled meat.

CHÂTEAU DE LANCYRE COSTE D'ALEYRAC 2010, AC Languedoc (France); #74765; Price: $ 19.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Syrah (50%), Grenache (40%), and Carignan (10%).  15-day fermentation.  Aged in tanks.  No oak!  Grilled lamb chops are the classic match!  Drink within 5 years.

CHÀTEAU DE NAGES JT 2009, AC Costiéres de Nîmes (Southern Rhone); #736876; Price: $21.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Syrah (95%) and Mourvèdre (5%). Hand harvested. Pre-fermentation maceration for 3 days, then fermentation, followed by further maceration for 30 days. Blending, then aging in French oak barrels (1/3 new, 1/3 first use, 1/3 second use) for 12 months. Bottled without filtration. JT stands for José Torrès, founder of the vineyard, located in south-west Rhone, just on the border with Languedoc. Definitely a wine to put away for a stew next winter.  Another outstanding year!

BODEGAS OLARRA CERRO AÑON GRAN RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #190827; Price: $ 24.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Tempranillo (80%), Garnacha (5%), with Mazuelo and Graciano (15%).  Long maceration that extends beyond fermentation, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aging on its lees for 2 months.  Transferred into new oak barrels for 6 months’ aging, after which they drained off the lees and the wine ages 2 more years.  Fining with egg whites.  Bottled and aged for 3 more years.  Excellent with a mixed grill.  Drink now.

LANGA TRADICION CENTENARIA GARNACHA 2008, DO Calatayud (Spain); #194795; Price: $13.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Garnacha.   Fermented on its seeds and skins in stainless steel vats where they macerated for 20 days. Aged on its lees in stainless steel vats and then transferred into oak casks for 4 months.  Bottled without stabilization, so there could be sediment.  Decant!  Try it next winter with anything from roast chicken to braised game or, if you can't wait, with some ribs slow-cooked on the grill.  Best value!

Rosé

QUAILS' GATE ROSÉ 2011, VQA Okanagan Valley; #275842; Price: $17.95; 13.0% ABV

A blend of 85% Gamay Noir (85%), Pinot Noir (10%), and Pinot Gris (5%).  Grapes soaked overnight.  Cold fermentation.

Extra! Extra!

PENINSULA RIDGE BEAL VINEYARDS CABERNET ROSÉ 2011, VQA Beamsville Bench (Niagara Peninsula); #177840; Price: $11.95; 12.5% ABV

Niagara, extra dry, 2011.

DOMAINE DES CARTERESSES TAVEL ROSÉ 2011, AC Tavel (Southern Rhone); #739474; Price: $15.95; 13.0% ABV

A blend of Grenache (50%), Mourvèdre (15%), Clairette (13%), Picpoul (12%), and Syrah (10%)

PETIT RIMAURESQ GRENACHE/CINSAULT/SYRAH ROSÉ 2011, AC Cotes de Provence (Southern Rhone); #276360; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV

Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah from Provence.  Extra Dry.

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Dan Albas - Our Hero

Last night, the House of Commons unanimously passed Bill C311, which will allow Canadians to buy wine for personal consumption in one province and (gasp!) transport it to another province, including through online shopping.  (Read my post about the history of this prohibition here.)

The Bill now goes to the Senate for its sober second thought.  Let’s look forward to the Senate acting quickly and Royal Assent before the end of the current session.  (The words “Senate” and “acting quickly” are not written together very often but here’s hoping.)

Dan Albas

Ron Canaan

Cheers to rookie MP Dan Albas (Conservative – Okanagan-Coquihalla) for sponsoring the Bill and to all MPs for unanimous consent! And thanks to MP Ron Canaan (Conservative - Kelowna-Lake Country), who led the fight to change the law in the previous Parliament.

And congratulations to Free My Grapes, who conducted a classic advocacy campaign to push MPs to action.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ June 9 2012

I was excited when I saw the theme of this week’s release at Vintages.  Two of my favourite regions are front and centre:  Chile and the south of France.  But digging through the list, it turns out that this is one of the most interesting releases in quite a while, especially among the whites.

From Chile, there’s an organic white blend and a Syrah that made it to My Picks.  And from the south of France, there’s a white and a red from Languedoc, as well as a Vacqueyras.

But regular readers will know that I often find another theme in a release and so it is with this one.  It’s Viognier.  Viognier is a warm climate wine; its home is in the Rhone Valley, where they use it as a single varietal white wine and in blending with Syrah in many northern Rhone reds, such as Côte-Rotie.  Characteristically, it shows aromas and flavours of stone fruits (peaches, apricots) and floral aromas.  I love it and if you haven’t tried it yet, or lately, you have 4 different wines in My Picks that offer Viognier; 2 in a blend and 2 as a single varietal wine.  Months can go by without seeing a single wine with Viognier in a release…and now we have 4 in 1.

Also of particular note is a Godello from northwest Spain.  And don’t miss that Rkatsiteli from Georgia.

Organic & Biodynamic    

EMILIANA SIGNOS DE ORIGEN LA VINILLA CHARDONNAY/VIOGNIER/MARSANNE/ROUSSANNE 2010, Casablanca Valley (Chile); #63909; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV

An interesting blend of Chardonnay (65%) and 3 south-of-France grapes: Viognier (20%), Marsanne (11%), and Roussanne (4%).  From the cool maritime climate of the Casablanca Valley.  Aged in French oak barrels for 10 months.  Certified organic by IMO of Switzerland. No pesticides.  Drink this year.

GRGICH HILLS FUMÉ BLANC DRY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Napa Valley (California); #346296; Price: $29.95; 14.3% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Fermented 80% in 900-gallon French oak casks (foudres) and 20% in previously-used small French oak barrels, all using indigenous yeasts.  Aged 6 months on its lees in neutral (used 3 or more times) barrels.  Certified organic and Biodynamic.  Loved the ’09!

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

SANDHILL SMALL LOTS VIOGNIER 2010, VQA Okanagan Valley (British Columbia); #126862; Price: $26.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Viognier.  Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks.  No oak.  Sandhill experiments with Rhone varietals, like Viognier, in small lots at their Osprey Ridge location, just east of Oliver in southern Okanagan. Look for aromas of pineapple, exotic floral, and Bartlett pear with tropical fruit, apple and tangerine flavours.  The 2009 was delicious.  Drink now.

D'ARENBERG THE HERMIT CRAB VIOGNIER/MARSANNE 2010, McLaren Vale (Australia); #662775; Price: $17.95; 13.1% ABV

A Rhone Valley blend of Viognier (68%) and Marsanne (32%), one of my favourites.  Separately fermented; 6% with wild yeasts.  They aged 14% of the Viognier in used French and American oak barrels.  McLaren Vale’s vineyards are underlain with limestone, formed by the calcareous remains of the Hermit Crab.  Look for floral aromas with apricot, peach and nectarine and sweet spice.  Drink now.

LES PILIERS VIOGNIER 2010, Languedoc (France); #669531; Price: $15.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Viognier.  Manual harvest.  Maceration for 12 hours.  Fermented in stainless steel vats.  Aged on its lees.  Fined and filtered.  Food friendly, and would work well with shellfish, sushi, or curry dishes.  Drink this year.

VINOTERRA RKATSITELI 2008, Kakheti (Georgia); #278879; Price: $13.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Rkatsiteli, the signature white variety of Georgia.  Used to make a wide variety of wine styles.  Known for its crisp acidity.  Fermented in stainless steel tanks.  No oak.  Look for tree fruit flavours.  The winemakers suggest matching it with seafood and asparagus, so it’s an ideal springtime wine.

ABANICO TEMPESTAD GODELLO 2010, DO Valdeorras (Spain); #276071; Price: $17.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Godello from Valdeorras, which sits in the northwest corner of Spain between Beirzo and Rias Baixas.  Hand harvested.  Fermentation starts in stainless steel tanks, finishes in French oak barrels.  Aged on its lees for 3 months in French oak.  Known for its green apple flavour and minerality.  Ideal with full-bodied fish.  Best value in the release.

Reds

ALTOS LAS HORMIGAS RESERVA MALBEC 2008, Mendoza (Argentina); #678987; Price: $27.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Malbec.  Grapes from each vineyard vinified separately before blending.  Cold maceration for 5 days in small stainless steel tanks.  Fermented with native yeasts for 20 days, followed by Malolactic conversion.  Aged in French oak barrels for 18 months.  Steak on the grill!  Capable of aging another 5 years.

MAYCAS DEL LIMARÍ RESERVA ESPECIAL SYRAH 2008, Limarí Valley (Chile); #269423; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Syrah from way up north.  Aged in French oak barrels for 16 months and in bottle for 6 months before release.  Excellent with grilled lamb.

ROMAIN DUVERNAY 2009, AC Vacqueyras (Southern Rhone, France); #280966; Price: $24.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Grenache (65%), Syrah (20%), and Mourvèdre (15%).  Fermented for 30 days using artificial yeasts.  No oak.  Good now but can be cellared for another 5 years.

HEGARTY CHAMANS NO. 2 GRENACHE/MOURVÈDRE/CINSAULT 2009, AOC Minervois (Languedoc, France); #277061; Price: $21.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Grenache (70%), Mourvèdre (20%), and Cinsault (10%).  Hand harvested.  Fermented in small tanks for 6 weeks.  The Grenache and Cinsault are blended then matured for 12 months in a foudre. The Mourvèdre is aged in stainless steel tanks on its lees before final blending.  The winemaker follows organic and Biodynamic principles and certification is in progress.  Bottled according to the cycles of the moon.  The winemaker’s symbol is a black sheep. As they say, “We may not please everyone, but hopefully we can reward the adventurous.”  Be adventurous!

VILLA MATILDE ROCCA DEI LEONI AGLIANICO 2008, IGT Campania (Italy); #165035; Price: $19.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Aglianico.  Fermented for 20 days, followed by Malolactic conversion.  Aged in stainless steel for 6 months. A big wine.  Try the veal.

Extra!  Extra!

LA CADIERENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION BANDOL ROSÉ 2011, AC Bandol (Provence); #119453; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of mostly Mourvedre with Grenache and Cinsault.

BOUTARI SANTORINI 2010, AOHQ Santorini (Greece); #47985; Price: $15.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Assyrtiko from sunny Santorini.  Ideal on the patio under a blazing blue sky.

DURIGUTTI BONARDA 2008, Mendoza (Argentina); #275164; Price: $17.95; 13.9% ABV

Bonarda...the mystery grape of Argentina.  Nobody’s quite sure where it’s from.

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