My Picks: Vintages Release ─ January 19 2013

When this week’s release catalog arrived in the mailbox, I confess that I was excited.  The theme?  Spanish Wines.  Regular readers know that I have a soft spot for the traditional wines of the Iberian Peninsula.  Carly Simon began singing in my head.  Anticipation…is keeping me waiting. 

Ah, but the subtitle tells the tale:  Span the style spectrum.  Turns out that this is code for a bunch of wines with “international” grape varieties.  It’s the usual suspects:  Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, even Syrah, none of which I associate with Spain in particular.  I’m guessing that Vintages has concluded that the only way to turn its customers onto Spanish wines is to give us the Spanish wines that are much like wines from anywhere else.  Boring.

But there are some Spanish wines that fall into the traditional category and 4 of them (2 whites, 2 reds) are listed below.  Thank goodness for small mercies.

Other than that, there just aren’t that many wines that fit My Picks.  Maybe it’s time for a trip to the SAQ! 

 

Organic

 

 

FATTORIA LA RIPA 2009, DOCG Chianti Classico (Tuscany); #651596; Price $19.95; 13.0% ABV

A blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Canaiolo (10%).  Aged in oak and then the bottle before release.  Look for typical aromas of cherry, spices, tobacco, and leather.  Made with organic grapes.  It’s perfect with Italian dishes with tomato-based sauces.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites
ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO GODELLO 2010, DO Bierzo (Spain); #308049; Price $13.95; 12.5% ABV
 100% Godello.  Hand-harvested.  (Beppi Crosariol says that hand harvesting is meaningless.  I’m a big fan of Beppi but not of MOG…Material Other than Grapes, which tends to end up in the mix with mechanical harvesting).  Look for tree fruit and minerality.  Ideal as an aperitif.

CUATRO RAYAS VIÑEDOS CENTENARIOS VERDEJO 2011, DO Rueda (Spain); #312900; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Verdejo, indigenous to the Rueda region in north-central Spain.  Fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts.  Left to age on its lees for 4 months.  It’s known for its herbal and nutty aromas and flavours in addition to those of tree fruit.  Ideal with grilled white fish.

Reds 
MARCHESI MAZZEI ZISOLA NERO D'AVOLA 2009, IGT Sicilia (Italy); #303925; Price $25.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Nero d'Avola, it’s indigenous to Sicily.  Handpicked.  Maceration for 14 days.  Aged 10 months in French oak barrels (one-third new) followed by one year of bottle aging.  This is one of those wines made from a lesser-known (and underrated) Italian grape variety.  It’s the Big Easy, ideal with typically spicy Sicilian food.

DON JACOBO RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #313270; Price $17.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Tempranillo (95%) with Garnacha and Mazuelo aka Carignan (10%).  Aged in oak for 14 months and then in bottle before release.  Typical Rioja, which means aromas of cherries, plums, vanilla, with minerality on the palate.  I’d try this with grilled lamb chops.

 

SOLAR DE SAEL CRIANZA MENCÍA 2007, DO Bierzo (Spain); #311902; Price $15.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Mencia, another varietal indigenous to the north-west quadrant of Spain, this time in Bierzo.  Mencia is in vogue at the moment…and deservedly so.  This one’s from old vines.  Aged 12 months in new French and American oak casks.  These are big wines, ideal with a roast beef.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ January 5 2013

Happy New Year!

After Vintages’ excesses of the holiday season, with lots of high-end beverages on offer, the New Year brings one of my favourite releases:  Smart Buys.  Along with 2 of the featured wines, the cover on the Vintages catalogue shows a piggy bank, some loose change on the table, and a pair of wire-rimmed glasses.  The subliminal message is that these are wines that a miser would love.  Well, if the shoe fits…

Despite that, the pickings are a bit slim, with just 1 white and 4 reds.  And nothing organic.  Part of the reason for the smaller selections recently is that the criteria for My Picks are getting a bit “tighter”, with more focus on wines that come in at less than 14.5% alcohol-by-volume and on independent and family-run wineries.  In the case of the latter criteria, it's difficult and sometimes surprising to find out who the real owner of a winery is.

 

 

Off the Beaten Track     

White 

TIKI PINOT GRIS 2011, South Island (New Zealand); #295279; Price $17.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Pinot Gris from a cool climate.  Fermented in stainless steel with cultivated yeasts.  Ideal as a winter aperitif.  Drink now.


Reds

DE MARTINO LEGADO RESERVA CARMENÈRE 2010, DO Maipo Valley (Chile); #236059; Price $16.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Carmènere.  Fermented with indigenous yeasts.  Aged for 14 months in previously used oak barrels.  The bottle is lightweight and made from recycled glass.

M. GASSIER NOSTRE PAIS 2010, AC Costières de Nîmes (Southern Rhone); #295410; Price $18.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (25%), Carignan (25%), Mourvèdre (20%), Cinsault (15%), and Syrah (5%) from the southern Rhone (yes, Costières de Nîmes is part of the southern Rhone, not Languedoc).  Hand harvested.  Aged in French oak barrels for 6 months; half on its lees.  No filtration, so decanting is advised.  Extremely flexible with food, such as roasted or braised lamb, veal, or duck.  From a family-run winery.

DONNACHIARA IRPINIA AGLIANICO 2008, DOC Irpinia (Campania); #262956; Price $18.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Aglianico from Irpinia, the same region that produces DOCG Taurasi.   Aged in oak barrels for 4 months.  An ideal choice with braised game with a mushroom sauce.  Not meant for extended aging, so drink this one now.

COTO DE HAYAS CENTENARIA GARNACHA 2011, DO Campo de Borja (Spain); #94805; Price $17.00; 13.0% ABV
100% Garnacha from Aragon, just southeast of Rioja. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by 4 weeks of maceration on its skins.  Aged 4 months in American oak barrels.  Try it with roast pheasant.

Honourable Mentions

SANTO ASSYRTIKO 2011, PDO Santorini (Greece); #627760; Price $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Assyrtiko, the signature white grape variety from Santorini.  Known for its crisp acidity and minerality.

 

RABL ST-LAURENT 2009, Kamptal (Austria); #301960; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Saint-Laurent.  Similar in style to Pinot Noir and like Pinot Noir it’s a bit fussy about where it’s grown.  Seems most at home in Austria.

 

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ December 8 2012

We arrive at this week’s release at Vintages, the third of 3 with a holiday theme. This one is Fine Wines and Sparklers for Festive Get-Togethers, which makes me think that the marketing folks at Vintages must be getting tired. Blah, humbug! This is the last release before 2013 (or the last release ever if that Mayan calendar is right). Already looking forward to the Smart Buys in the next release.

There are some expensive items again in this release but at least, among the wines, there’s nothing over $100 and just 10 items over $50. Small mercies.

There’s good variety among the sparkling wines but nothing that makes My Picks, although one merits an Honourable Mention.

Of the 8 wines that do make my list, it’s once again the usual suspects who consistently bring value to your table: Italy, southern France, and Spain. Don’t miss the Mencia from Bierzo.

Organic

 

AMASTUOLA PRIMITIVO 2010, IGP Puglia (Italy); #300004; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Primitivo, what the Italians call Zinfandel. Harvested at night to reduce heat stress. Fermented in stainless steel vats with 3 weeks of maceration. Aged in stainless steel tanks with micro-oxygenation. Certified organic grape production.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites
 
ROBERT MONDAVI FUMÉ BLANC 2009, Napa Valley (California); #221887; Price $22.95; 13.9% ABV
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (90%, sourced from 2 vineyards) and Semillon (10%). Fumé Blanc is a term invented by Robert Mondavi in 1966 to distinguish this dry style from sweeter versions that were then in vogue. 60% barrel fermented. Aged, sur lie, in French oak. Look for tropical and tree fruit flavours with refreshing acidity. Drink within a year.

Reds

E. GUIGAL 2009, AC Crozes-Hermitage (Northern Rhone); #704908; Price $24.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Syrah. Fermented for 3 weeks. Aged 24 months in oak barrels. Look for flavours of cassis and vanilla (from the oak).
 
CHÂTEAU EUGÉNIE CUVÉE RÉSERVÉE DE L'AÏEUL CAHORS 2008, AC Cahors (South West France); #295949; Price $19.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Malbec (85%) and Tannat (15%). Fermentation on its skins for 20 days in stainless steel vats. Aged 18 months in oak barrels (1/3 new). Unfiltered (so decant). Look for red fruit, earthy aromas. (Terre de nos aïeux!) Ideal with a winter lamb or game stew. You can drink this one now or put it in the cellar for the next 10 years.
 
TERREDORA AGLIANICO 2009, IGT Campania (Italy); #602284; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Aglianico. Maceration for 7 days. Aged in a combination of oak and stainless steel tanks. Look for aromas of red berries, violets and meat. Not a BIG Aglianico but ideal with hearty winter fare, such as stews and pasta.
 
BODEGAS DEL ABAD DOM BUENO MENCÍA 2008, DO Bierzo (Spain); #291989; Price $15.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Mencia, a grape that’s indigenous to Bierzo in northwest Spain. Fermented for 10 days in stainless steel tanks; maceration for 20 days. Aged 5 months in American and French oak barrels. Meant for aging. BEST VALUE.
 
LAN CRIANZA 2008, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #166538; Price $15.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Aged in American and French oak barrels for 12 months, then several months in the bottle. Not every pizza wine comes from Italy!
 
LEALTANZA RESERVA 2007, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #208223; Price $19.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Fermented in stainless steel tanks for 15 days, plus 10 days maceration. Malolactic conversion in French oak vats. Aged 18 months in French oak casks (1 or 2 years old) and then 3 more months in larger French oak vats. Look for aromas of black fruits, spices, and coffee. The winemakers suggest trying it with salmon.

Honourable Mentions

 NATURA UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2011, Casablanca Valley (Chile); #61895; Price $14.95; 13.5% ABV
Chardonnay... yes but …organic (from Emiliana) and unoaked.

JIM BARRY THE LODGE HILL DRY RIESLING 2011, Clare Valley (Australia); #262469; Price $19.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Riesling from the Clare Valley (one of my favourites), a region known for high acid, steely, minerally Rieslings with citrus and floral aromas. Harvested at night. Capable of cellaring for 5 years.

JACQUES DEPAGNEUX CÔTE DU PY MORGON 2011, AC Beaujolais (France); #299925; Price $18.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Gamay. Morgon is the Beaujolais Cru that has the best capability for aging.

JACKSON-TRIGGS ENTOURAGE GRAND RESERVE MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE BRUT 2008, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #234161; Price $22.95; 12.0% ABV
A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. As the label says, it’s a sparkling made using the classic method, as in Champagne.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ November 24 2012

The emphasis on holiday extravagance continues this week at Vintages, with the second of what should be 3 consecutive releases with lots of expensive - and often overpriced - offerings.

 

As always, your faithful servant has scoured the catalogue for worthy choices that meet the criteria for My Picks.  Not surprisingly, only 6 wines made the cut and all 6 come from Italy and southern France.  Even so, just 2 wines are less than $20. 

Off the Beaten Track

White

TORRE ROSAZZA FRIULANO 2010, DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli (Italy); #289520; Price $19.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Friulano.  Fermented in steel.  Aged on its lees for 4 months in stainless steel.  Look for tree fruit and floral aromas with minerality.  Excellent as an aperitif, the winemaker bravely recommends matching it with eggs and asparagus!


Reds

DOMAINE MICHELAS ST-JEMMS SAINTE EPINE 2009, AC Saint-Joseph (Northern Rhone); #296772; Price $31.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Syrah.  Hand harvested.  Aged 12 months in oak.  Family-owned.  Not too expensive for a northern Rhone wine.  Try it with beef or game.

Up next, a couple of Southern Rhone reds, great with braised lamb.

DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR CLOS DE SIXTE 2010, AC Lirac (Southern Rhone); #76349; Price $22.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah (35%), and Mourvèdre (15%).  Fermented in stainless steel vats with 18 days of maceration.  Family-owned.  Most Lirac producers, including this one, also produce Chateauneuf-du-Pape on the other side of the Rhone River.  But Lirac doesn’t carry the same cachet…or the same price.  Needs another year in the cellar.

PIERRE AMADIEU ROMANE MACHOTTE 2010, AC Gigondas (Southern Rhone); #17400; Price $23.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache and Syrah.  Hand harvested.  30-day maceration.  Aged for 12 months, partly in two-year-old oak barrels and partly in larger oak casks.  Family-owned.  Look for dark fruits and dried herbs on the nose.

SALCHETO 2006; DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany); #685180; Price $24.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Prugnolo Gentile (aka Sangiovese).  Fermented in large Slovenian oak casks.  Aged partly in those Slovenian casks (18 months) and partly in French oak barrels (6 months), then another 6 months in bottle.  Despite that, this is one of those mystery bottles that turns up every so often at Vintages.  2006, where’s it been?  The winery is working towards being 100% energy self-sufficient, upping the cool factor.

MUSELLA VIGNE NUOVE 2009, DOC Valpolicella Superiore (Veneto); #205757; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of Corvina and Corvinone (70%), Rondinella (20%) and Barbera! (10%) from very young (5 and 10 years old) vineyards.  Maceration and fermentation for 12 days, followed by Malolactic conversion.  Aged for 12 months in 225-litre and 500-litre barrels “of various origins and essence”. Extremely versatile with food.  BEST VALUE!

Honourable Mentions

DOMAINE SPIROPOULOS 2011, PDO Mantinia (Greece); #710970; Price $14.95; 11.5% ABV

The grape variety is Moschofilero, organically grown in Mantinia, which gives the wine a faint pink colour (thanks to short maceration).  Family-owned.  Look for floral aromas (roses, lemon-blossom, bergamot) and crisp acidity.  Organic.

 

PEWSEY VALE RIESLING 2011, Eden Valley (Australia); #686600; Price $19.95; 12.5% ABV

Look for citrus fruit, white flowers, and minerality.  A taste of paradise.

 

EWALD GRUBER HUNDSPOINT GRÜNER VELTLINER 2011, Weinviertel (Austria); #298299; Price: $17.95; 13.0% ABV

Gruener Veltliner, the signature white grape variety of Austria.  Known for tree fruit and white pepper flavours with fresh acidity.

 

CICCHITTI EDICIÓN LIMITADA MALBEC 2008, Mendoza (Argentina); #260893; Price $24.95; 14.0% ABV

Malbec, the signature red variety of Argentina.

 

DAMALISCO CRIANZA 2008, DO Toro (Spain); #306589; Price $16.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Tinta de Toro (aka Tempranillo).  Aged 10 months in oak.


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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ November 10 2012

They've started the Christmas season at Vintages.  Bah, humbug!

I'm one of those old-fashioned types (aka fogies) who believe that Christmas belongs in December.  That's what makes it special.  But like every other retailer with no imagination, Vintages has once again jumped the gun and here we have the first release of a overly-long season.

Of course, expensive products have pride of place in this release.  But if you look carefully, you can find good values. 

There's a minor focus on Piedmont (just 7 wines).  It's the Barbera d'Alba that's the pick of the group.

Only 7 picks met the criteria for My Picks, all red.  Nothing organic but there are a couple of organic wines (both white) that I've included in the Honourable Mentions.

Off the Beaten Track

 

13TH STREET SANDSTONE OLD VINES GAMAY NOIR 2010, VQA Four Mile Crook (Niagara); #130195; Price $29.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Gamay. Handpicked. Cold soaked and fermented in stainless steel vats. Transferred to French oak barrels, (1/3 new) for Malolactic conversion and aging for “several” months, then blended. The winery recommends matching this with “venison, steak frites, grilled duck breast, or cow and ewe’s milk cheeses”.  Put this one away for a few years. Decant.

 

VASSE FELIX CABERNET/MERLOT 2010, Margaret River (Australia); #947879; Price $24.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (37%), and Malbec (8%). Maceration and fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 12 months in French Oak (7% new, 93% 1-5 years old), then blended. The attraction here is the source: Margaret River in Western Australia.  Put away in the cellar for a couple of years.

 

PIERRE AMADIEU LA GRANGELIÈRE 2010, AC Vacqueyras (Southern Rhone); #76398; Price $19.95; 14.5% ABV

A typical southern Rhone blend of Grenache and Syrah. The Syrah is aged 9 months in oak barrels (50% new) and they aged the Grenache in large oak casks. Look for the typical flavours of red berries and pepper.

 

VIDAL-FLEURY 2009, AC CROZES HERMITAGE (Northern Rhone); #295832; Price $22.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Syrah. Both machine and hand harvested. Maceration for 3 weeks. Fermented with indigenous yeast, followed by Malolactic conversion. Aged on its lees for 3 months in tanks, then 6 months in foudres (large oak barrels). Clarification by settling and filtration. Unfined. Released 4 months after bottling.

 

GIACOMO BORGOGNO SUPERIORE 2010, DOC BARBERA D'ALBA (Piedmont); #285486; Price $19.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Barbera. 8 days maceration. Aged 12 months in oak barrels, then 2 months in bottle before release. Very versatile with food. Try it with grilled veal chops in a light cream sauce.

 

QUINTA DOS QUATROS VENTOS COLHEITA 2008, DOC Douro (Portugal); #902742; Price $24.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional. Aged 12 months in new French oak and Russian oak barrels. Excellent with stews and braised meats.

 

NEKEAS EL CHAPARRAL DE VEGA SINDOA OLD VINES GARNACHA 2010, DO Navarra (Spain); #291997; Price $18.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Garnacha from old vines planted in Spain’s northernmost Garnacha vineyard, rescued from near extinction. They ferment the grapes from each plot separately, with 20 days of maceration, followed by Malolactic conversion and 5 months in barrels, then blending. It’s a lighter style of Grenache. An early candidate for turkey dinner.

 

TILENUS ENVEJECIDO EN ROBLE 2007, DO Bierzo (Spain); #297143; Price $17.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Mencia…very “in” at the moment. It’s indigenous to Bierzo in northwest Spain, a continental climate (hot summers) but with some cooling from the nearby maritime climate. Fermented in stainless steel tanks. Aged 8 months in French oak (85%) and American oak (15%), then in the bottle for another year before release, following the traditional Spanish practice of keeping the wine at the winery until it’s ready to drink. No filtration or fining, so decanting is a good idea. Look for black fruits and spiciness on the palate.  Meant for aging.  BEST VALUE.

 

 

Honourable Mentions

 

BONTERRA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Lake and Mendocino Counties (California); #86249; Price $17.95; 13.1% ABV

Mostly Sauvignon Blanc, with Muscat and Chardonnay. Certified Organic.

 

YALUMBA ORGANIC VIOGNIER 2011, South Australia; #288217; Price $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Viognier. Organic. Excellent with Asian dishes.

 

KIM CRAWFORD SMALL PARCEL THE MISTRESS RIESLING 2006, South Island (New Zealand); #90134; Price $24.95; 13.0% ABV

Riesling from the cool climate South Island. Tell me more.

 

PAZO PONDAL LEIRA ALBARIÑO 2011, DO Rías Baixas (Spain); #115816; Price $15.95; 12.5% ABV

Albarino…one of my favourites. It’s a wine from a maritime climate that’s perfect with food from a maritime climate. Yes, it’s just that easy.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ October 27 2012

In this week’s release at Vintages, the primary theme focuses on the world’s best-known wine region (Bordeaux).  Not much there that’s worthwhile for My Picks, where I recommend wines from regions that are lesser known or underappreciated.  Not to say you shouldn’t buy some Bordeaux red.  2009 was an excellent vintage, so have at it.  (Chateau Lestruelle and Chateau La Gravette Lacombe look like good value.)

Still, there’s a Bordeaux white worth a look.  (As much as Bordeaux red is over-exposed, Bordeaux white is overlooked just as much.)  There are 7 other wines worth your consideration, including a Chablis that saw no oak and a rarity (Riojan Graciano) that you shouldn’t miss.   

Organic

BONTERRA ZINFANDEL 2010, Mendocino County (California); #530139; Price: $17.00; 14.5% ABV

Zinfandel with “a little Petite Sirah”.  Here’s a Zinfandel with a lot going for it.  Made from certified organic grapes…just 14.5% alcohol (low for a Zin)…and a good price.  Great with Indian food that has a kick of spice.  Drink soon.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

CHÂTEAU DE CRUZEAU BLANC 2009, AC Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux); #966010; Price: $27.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Hand harvested.  Fermented in oak barrels.  No Malolactic fermentation.  Aged for 10 months in oak barrels (35% new) on its lees (spent yeast) with bâtonnage (stirring of the lees).  Fined by tartaric precipitation.  Try it with scallops or scampi.

SIMONNET-FEBVRE 2010, AC Chablis (Burgundy); #41780; Price: $19.95; 12.7% ABV

100% Chardonnay.  This is Chablis at its best.  Fermented in stainless steel.  Aged on its lees for 6 months in stainless steel, which allows the grape to shine through with its citrus and tree fruit aromas and flavours, and that wonderful flinty minerality.  Good price too.  Get some raw oysters!

Reds

MALIVOIRE ALBERT'S HONOUR OLD VINES FOCH 2010, VQA Ontario; #551036; Price: $24.95; 12.0% ABV

100% Maréchal Foch, a French hybrid created in the early 20^th century by crossing a European Vinifera vine with an American vine as a response to the phylloxera attack.  Now illegal in France.  Known for its resistance to disease and winter weather.  Hand harvested.  Fermented on its skins for 12 days. Aged in American oak barrels for 8 months.  Often described as rustic.  Ideal with stews.

LOUIS JADOT CHÂTEAU DES JACQUES 2009, AC Morgon (Beaujolais); #653584; Price: $23.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Gamay.  Hand harvested.  Fermented using natural yeasts in oak vats for 12 days, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged in oak barrels.  Ready to drink now but Morgon is the most age-worthy (up to 10 years) of all the Beaujolais Crus.  Hold on to it for a few of years and try it with braised game.

ALPHA DOMUS THE BARNSTORMER SYRAH 2010, North Island (New Zealand); #303396; Price: $22.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Syrah.  Hand and machine harvested.  Fermented with cultured yeast with maceration of 14 days.  Aged in French oak for 10 months. From a family-owned winery.  Try it with lamb, of course.  Drink soon.

MEANDRO DO VALE MEÃO 2009, DOC Douro (Portugal); #244731; Price: $22.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Touriga Nacional (35%), Touriga Franca (30%), Tinta Roriz aka Tempranillo (35%), Tinta Barroca (5%) and the little-known Sousão (5%).  Crushed by foot in Lagares -- granite tanks -- how’s that for tradition?  They ferment each grape separately, then blend. Aged in French oak barrels (second and third use).  A family-run winery.  Made for a winter’s dinner with lamb or beef stew but first needs another year of aging.

GRA2 GARCIANO 2010, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #190819; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Garciano, a high quality grape variety that was nearly extinct because of low yields but now making a slow comeback.  Maceration on the skins for 5 days before fermentation and 10 days after fermentation.  Aged in stainless steel tanks.   Known for its berry aromas and flavours, spicy character, and high acidity.  Should be great with roast chicken.  BEST VALUE.   

Honourable Mentions

LES PENSÉES DE PALLUS 2009, AC Chinon (Loire); #123893; Price: $21.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Cabernet Franc from Chinon.  Very food-friendly.

BODEGAS PABLO MENGUANTE VIDADILLO 2007, DO Carinena (Spain); #293407; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

Vidadillo (aka Crespiello):  a very obscure grape coming back from near extinction.

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Quick Picks: Vintages Release ─ October 13 2012

We’re just back from a month in Languedoc (more on that soon) and so while catching up on correspondence and all those other mundane tasks that pile up, there’s just enough time for a quick look at this week’s release at Vintages.

The primary theme, Aussie Artisans, is a good one.  Australia is home to some of the largest industrial wineries in the world.  Casella (makers of [yellow tail]) is just the most obvious example.  This theme gives a showcase to smaller, one-person or family-run wineries, where individuality and terroir can shine.  A couple of picks here, but you can’t go too far wrong with any of the choices in this theme.

Otherwise, the picks include 5 wines from France, 4 from the south.  Hmm, wonder how that happened?  Don’t miss the Picpoul.

Organic

DOMAINE CAZES EGO VIELLES VIGNES 2010, AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #77701; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (40%), and Mourvèdre (20%).  A classic representative of what Roussillon (just north of Catalonia) has to offer.  A can’t miss match with any braised meat.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

BEAUVIGNAC PICPOUL DE PINET 2011, AC Coteaux de Languedoc (France); #350124; Price: $12.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Picpoul.  Don’t know Picpoul?  It’s a wonderfully simple wine, ideal with oysters and clams and mussels.  High acidity; hence the name, which means lip stinger.  A personal favourite, much consumed on our recent trip to Languedoc.  Drink now.  BEST VALUE.

PASCAL JOLIVET LES CAILLOTES 2010, AC Sancerre (Loire); #287086; Price: $31.95; 13.0% ABV

THE ideal in Sauvignon Blanc.  Not inexpensive, but worth the loonies.

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL COUDOULET DE BEAUCASTEL BLANC 2011, AC Cotes du Rhône (Southern Rhone); #48892; Price: $33.95; 14.0% ABV

A wonderful blend of Marsanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Clairette…bringing back the aromas of the fruits and flowers of southern France.  Matches well with seafood, chicken (or anything that tastes just like) and pork in an herb-based sauce. 

PRÀ CLASSICO 2011, DOC Soave (Veneto); #74534; Price: $19.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Garganega.  Soave is still struggling from a poor brand image.  But it can be a delicious wine…and Pra is one of the best producers.  Taste how good a Soave can be.  Drink soon.  Excellent with white fish.

Reds

BENMARCO MALBEC 2010, Mendoza (Argentina); #657601; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

90% Malbec with 10% Bonarda.  It’s a standard from Susana Balbo.

PAXTON AAA SHIRAZ/GRENACHE 2010, McLaren Vale (Australia); #149898; Price: $19.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Shiraz (65%) and Grenache (35%).  A family-run winery, which is a good sign.  Michael Paxton says, “Expression of the vineyard in a glass.”  I’m in.

RED CLAW PINOT NOIR 2010, Mornington Peninsula (Australia); #296970; Price: $29.95; 14.0% ABV

Pinot Noir from the cool climate peninsula just south of the great city of Melbourne.

GUARDIAN PEAK SMG 2009, WO Stellenbosch (South Africa); #296681; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Grenache.  From a family-run winery.  If you like wines from Languedoc, try this.

JEAN-LUC COLOMBO LES FÉES BRUNES 2009, AC Crozes Hermitage (Northern Rhone); #286351; Price: $24.95; 13.0% ABV

It’s Syrah from Northern Rhone, where (regrettably) bargains are hard to come by.  It’s supply and demand.  Match it with a dish featuring anise flavours.  Drink soon.  Oh, just one more question…the brown fairies?

FRASCOLE 2009, DOCG Chianti Rufina (Tuscany); #85167; Price: $16.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Sangiovese.  I know what you're thinking…Chianti is not off the beaten track.  Yes, but Chianti Rufina is, compared to Chianti Classico.  Ages better than Classico.  An excellent food wine, matches with damn near any simple, classic Tuscan (or any Italian) dish.  And a great value at this price.

PEDRO MARTÍNEZ ALESANCO RESERVA 2006, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #170092; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV

Of course, it can’t be My Picks without something from Spain.  A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Garnacha (10%), aged in both American (the traditional approach) and French (the modern approach) oak.  Is it too late for a grilled steak?

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