My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives -- July 28

Here’s my shopping list for this week’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.

Organic

TENUTA DI GHIZZANO VENEROSO 2006, IGT Toscana (Italy); #103218; 14% ABV; $28
A blend of Sangiovese (85%) and Merlot (15%). Harvested by hand, crushed by feet (!), fermented with natural yeasts, aged in oak. Located close by the coast, southeast of Pisa, where wines typically have a mineral tang. They use 50 percent of the land for vineyards, the rest for olives, cereals, and forests. Converted to organic vinification in 2003; certified by “Suolo e Salute”, they’ve been using Biodynamic practices since 2006.

Off the Beaten Track

LAURENZ V. CHARMING GRÜNER VELTLINER 2007, Kamptal (Austria); #180802; 13% ABV; $20
Laurenz Five is a group of five winemakers (including the fifth generation of the Laurenz Moser family) that makes only Gruner Veltliner, the signature grape of cool climate Austria. I like their focus! Not so much the cutesy names they give their five GVs: Charming, Silver Bullet, Friendly, Singing, and Sunny. Are these wines or dwarfs? They say that they selected these names to appeal to women. Uh, okay. Handpicked, temperature-controlled fermentation and aging in steel tanks. No oak. Don’t know GV? Check out their video. 

DOMAINE LA FOURMONE CEPS D'OR 2005, AC VACQUEYRAS (France); #182279; 14% ABV; $29
Old Vine Grenache with some Mourvèdre. Two sisters run Domaine la Fourmone, which has 20 ha in Vacqueyras. Mediterranean climate (hot, hot, hot in the summer; cool and rainy in the winter). A wine to put down for a winter dish like beef stew or braised game.

QUINTA DO VALLADO TOURIGA NACIONAL 2007, DOC Douro (Portugal); #137018; 12% ABV; $29
100% Touriga Nacional, one of the key grapes in making port, for which (historically) Douro is more famous than for its dry wines. That’s changing, and here’s an example of why. Made in a modern style: fermented in stainless steel, aged in new French oak. A sixth-generation winemaker. More of a winter wine; it will also work with grilled lamb.

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La Réserve Rimbaud

I have seen the future of fine dining in France.

We always head out to a good restaurant on our wedding anniversary. For years, we went to the now-defunct Café Henry Burger. Caught up in a government expenses scandal back in 2003 (plus tougher competition), it closed in 2006 after 83 years in business. (No politician or bureaucrat would be caught dead in there after the scandal broke.) In recent years, our celebratory dinner has switched to Beckta’s, the most consistently good restaurant in town.

This year, though, we’re in Montpellier for our anniversary. A little research and I come up with a newly-Michelin-starred restaurant right in Montpellier, about a 15-minute walk from our apartment: La Réserve Rimbaud.

La Réserve Rimbaud is one of the oldest restaurants in Montpellier, opening in 1835 as the L’Auberge du Père Louis. Titus Rimbaud renamed it when he took it over in 1875. And the restaurant’s façade looks about 175 years old too, but don’t let that fool you. They've thoroughly modernized the interior. It overlooks the river Lez, with a spectacular outdoor terrace, perfect for summer dining. It’s close to downtown but tucked away in a quiet residential area. The opposite side of the river remains forested, so it’s like being out in the countryside, far from the madding crowd. A swan patrols up and down the river, waiting for diners to toss chunks of bread from the terrace. Later in the evening, the swan has gone to bed. Then fish take their turn to vie for the bread chunks. To them, it’s manna from above.

The chef, Charles Fontes, who took over several years ago, takes pride in using local produce and traditional approaches with an innovative twist.

We start with an aperitif of Picpoul de Pinet. Crisp acidity with lemon-lime flavours, it’s a perfect start on a more-than-warm summer evening.

For appetizers, Michèle picks the Coquettes de volailles du Lez truffées, a specialty of the restaurant for over a century. Crispy on the outside, velvety smooth on the inside, they’re delicious. Michèle is crazy for truffles so it’s perfect. The restaurant’s sommelier matches it with a local rosé.

I take the foie gras poêlé, avec raviolis de cerises, with a glass of Muscat de Frontignan, a Vin Doux Naturel (fortified sweet wine). Just the right amount of acidity to match the fat of the foie gras, without any cloying sweetness on a warm night.

For the main course, Michèle selects the Filet de Saint-Pierre vapeur, condiment d’olives Lucques au citron confit, asperges et parmesan (John Dory, steamed, with a condiment made of Lucques olives and lemon confit, asparagus and parmesan). The fish is fresh and perfectly cooked, crispy on the outside.

My choice is Peche du jour rôtie en bouillabaisse, pommes de terre, rouille de seiche et fenouil (Bouillabaisse made with roasted, freshly-caught fish, potatoes, and a rouille with cuttlefish – like squid – and fennel.) My bouillabaisse is delicious, with pieces of roasted John Dory, turbot, and bream, but a bit rich even for me (I have the proverbial cast-iron stomach).

[Apologies, I got so caught up in the romance of the evening, I forgot to take photos of the mains and the desserts!]

The sommelier and I come up with a matching wine: Domaine de Montcalmès Blanc 2007, AC Coteaux de Languedoc, 13.5% ABV. Half Marsanne and half Roussanne, two local white varietals, also common in Northern Rhone. It’s from a relatively new winery, releasing their first wine in 1999, but already with a good reputation. Aromas of pear, quince, golden delicious apple, almond, wax, white flowers, and minerality. Flavours of pear and apple on the palate, with minerality, then a bitter almond taste at the finish. Medium acidity, it has a round mouthfeel, but with acidity biting at the back. I love it; it’s so different from Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. Great match with the main courses.

And the capsule logo adds to the romance of the evening for Michèle and me!

Dessert? Bien sûr! For me, Fraises Ciflorette, Chantilly mascarpone, meringues, et sorbet fraise. For Michèle, it’s Baba au vieux Rhum, chantilly vanillée.

Why is this the future of fine dining in France? Many young chefs in France have returned to the fundamentals of fine dining: great food defined by local ingredients and traditions, prepared well. They’ve turned their backs on opulent décor, over-the-top extras like pre-desserts, and snooty servers. The service is warm, knowledgeable, and conscientious. You eat well, not too much, in an enjoyably relaxed atmosphere.

But here’s the kicker: for a restaurant of this calibre, they price it all so reasonably. All appetizers priced at 15 euros, main courses all at 28 euros, and desserts all at 10 euros. Take all three and the total comes to 49 euros (about CAD65). For a Michelin-starred restaurant, this is a bargain. Even more pricing innovation on the wine list. Rimbaud groups their wines – mostly from Languedoc-Roussillon – by price (a no-no according to my sommelier training). There’s a full page of wines, all at exactly 20 euros. Next, a full page of wines at exactly 30 euros…then another page at 40 euros…then another page at 50 euros, and finally, a short list of other wines over 50 euros. It’s all very client-friendly and what’s wrong with that?

Going to the south of France? Get yourself to Montpellier and an evening out at La Réserve Rimbaud. Reservations a must.

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My Picks: Vintages Release -- July 24

Here’s my shopping list for the Vintages Release on July 24.

Organic

DOMAINE SPIROPOULOS 2009, AOC Mantinia (Greece); #710970; Price: $16.95; 11.5% ABV

Mantinia is home to the Moscophilero white varietal.  With its deep pink skin, it can give the wine itself a pinkish hue. Pink, but not rosé. A perfect summer wine, it's light-bodied, often similar to Muscat with a grapey aroma. The winery has its domestic organic certifications; I tried to decipher them but it’s Greek to me.

BONTERRA ZINFANDEL 2007, Mendocino County (California); #530139; Price: $18.95; 14.5% ABV

The latest addition to the Vintages' lineup from Bonterra, it’s a blend of Zinfandel (86%), Petite Sirah (11%) and Syrah (3%). Certified organically-grown with some biodynamic grapes. Aged 8 months with 40% aged in once-used toasted French and American oak, 25% aged in twice-used oak, and the remaining 35% aged in oak used 3 or more times.  Zin and organic! 

Off the Beaten Track

Rosé

BIELER PÈRE & FILS SABINE ROSÉ 2009, AC Coteaux d’Aix en Provence (France); #71423; Price: $12.95; 13.6% ABV

Some people buy wine from the same vintage in which their child was born. Winemaker Charles Bieler went one better: he launched this wine five years ago when his daughter, Sabine, was born. It’s a blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (30%), and Cinsault (10%). Another chance to try a classic rosé from Provence.

LA CADIÉRENNE CUVÉE GRANDE TRADITION ROSÉ 2009, AC Bandol (France); #119453; Price: $17.95; 14.7% ABV

A blockbuster rosé! Watch out for the alcohol. Wine co-operatives are very common in southern France and La Cadiérenne, a bit east of Marseille, dates from 1929. Bandol is THE name in Provence rosé. It’s mostly Mourvèdre, with Grenache and Cinsault.

White

DOMAINE J. LAURENS LE MOULIN BRUT, AC Blanquette de Limoux (France); #180323; Price: $16.95; 12.0% ABV

Good golly, a delicious sparkling for $17? Why not? My sister-in-law, who comes from the Champagne region, will be very disappointed by this recommendation. For her, the only worthwhile sparkling is Champagne. I admire her loyalty, but… Blanquette means “white” in Occitan, the ancient language of Languedoc. Blanquette has at least 90% Mauzac, a local white varietal, using the traditional method, same as in Champagne. Brut means bone dry (no, not literally).

ANDRÉ & EDMOND FIGEAT LES CHAUMIENNES 2008, AC Pouilly-Fumé (France); #171470; Price: $21.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc from its traditional home, the Loire Valley. André and Edmond are son and father who ferment with indigenous yeast in stainless steel tanks. No Malolactic fermentation. Aged in stainless steel. Crisp, fresh, tasty.

Red

LYKOS KRATISTOS 2005, Nemea (Greece); #61473; Price: $16.95; 13.8% ABV

From a winery owned by the Lykos family, who first made their name in restaurants. It’s 100% Aghiorghitiko, native to the Nemea region. Try it with grilled lamb or beef kabobs.

The feature of this release is wines from Languedoc-Roussillon, one of my favourite areas. Here are 5 selections (plus the Blanquette listed in the whites):

CAVE DE ROQUEBRUN ROCHES NOIRES MACÉRATION 2007; AC Saint-Chinian-Roquebrun (France); #177519; Price: $17.95; 14.7% ABV

More great wine from the outstanding 2007 vintage in Languedoc. A blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (20%), and Mourvèdre (20%). I’m not a big fan of carbonic maceration but I’ll still try it here. Drink now!

CHÂTEAU DE PENA 2006, AC Cotes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #178392; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Syrah, Carignan, and Grenache from Roussillon, just north of the Spanish border. Hand picked. Syrah and Grenache fermented separately for 4 weeks; Carignan vinified by carbonic maceration to soften the tannins. Aged in stainless steel. Another one for immediate consumption.

CHÂTEAU DE SÉRAME RÉSERVE DU CHÂTEAU 2007, AC Corbières (France); #175216; Price: $15.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of Syrah (58%), Grenache (23%) and Carignan (19%). Some cold maceration for 8 days; fermentation for 20 days with natural yeasts; aged 12 months: roughly half in second-use oak. Yet another chance to taste a Languedoc wine from the super 2007 vintage. Try it with BBQ lamb chops.

DOMAINE LES YEUSES LES ÉPICES SYRAH 2007, Vin de Pays D’Oc (Languedoc, France); #177584; Price: $12.95; 13.5% ABV
From vineyards just off the Mediterranean, more famous for white wines (Picpoul!) than red. Carbonic maceration again here, with aging in oak for 9 months. A real bargain from a terrific vintage. For drinking now.

LES CLOS DE PAULILLES 2005, AC Collioure (Roussillon, France); #7245; Price: $21.95; 13.0% ABV
Located hard by the Mediterranean, oh-so-close to Spain. A blend of Mourvèdre (65%), Syrah (20%), and Grenache (15%). Maceration for 3 weeks. After fermentation, aging for 15 months, 2/3 in oak and 1/3 in stainless steel. Blended just before bottling. Excellent match for grilled meat.

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Back to Languedoc!

Michèle and I are off to Languedoc again, but this time it’s different: we’re bringing our 7-year old niece with us. Our 4-week trip last autumn was all about visiting wineries, playing golf, and catching up with Bob and Natalie (Michèle’s brother and his girlfriend), who live in Montpellier. Our niece, M², is not into golf or wine (not yet anyway, but I’m optimistic). So this trip will be all about days at the beach on the Mediterranean or at the pool at Bob’s place, maybe some horseback riding, and, I fear, much shopping.

We took Air France again this year. Hard to believe that it’s the same airline that we took just 9 months ago. The flight is almost an hour late leaving, no explanation, no apology. But it’s the first flight for M² so her anticipation and excitement erases all the drabness and aggravation of modern air travel. We’re a little worried about how she’ll react to the flight. Turns out that, once on board, she loves it, every minute of it: the acceleration down the runway, the G-force as the plane lifts off, the gradually-shrinking view of the buildings until we get above the clouds, the video screen in the seat back with movies and cartoons, the sunset quickly followed by sunrise high over the Atlantic as we head for Paris. She’s definitely not impressed with her kid’s meal: chicken nuggets and potato patties. Yikes, this is her first taste of French cuisine?! But, otherwise, she’s hooked on air travel. No sleep for us on this red-eye.

We land at Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris at 6 am and, wow, another big shift downwards. In Paris, there are 3 customs agents for 1000 incoming tourists. I’ve been lucky enough to travel around the world, including to many developing countries with god-awful infrastructure, but I’ve never been through something this disorganized. Are the French having trouble handling the boom in tourism? After all, tourists have only been coming to France for, what, a hundred years? Maybe this is a sign of the French government’s austerity? Easily the worst customs-clearing experience I’ve ever had (except for US Customs at Pearson, which is now in my Hall of Fame for consistently bad travel experiences...even before 9-11). We barely make our connection to Montpellier, despite a 90-minute layover. M² grabs the window seat…it may take a while to get her noseprints off the glass.

We pick-up our rental car at Montpellier Airport. The car rental agency tries to give us an upgrade to a much larger car. They’re stunned when we turn it down. But having a large car in a European city is a definite no, especially when we already know how small the parking space is at the apartment that we’re renting (the same one as last year).

Montpellier is very familiar to us now. We get well-settled into the apartment; then we have a quick snooze, a little lunch, some grocery shopping.

Bob and Natalie come over for a welcome apéro that evening. I open up a bottle of that wonderful white wine, Picpoul de Pinet, from only 50 kilometres down the road from Montpellier:

La Font Française Picpoul de Pinet Blanc des Blancs 2009, AC Languedoc; Cave de l’Ormarine; 12.5% ABV

Aromas of lemon-lime, minerality, and white blossoms. The flavours of lemon-lime and minerality come through, matched by wonderfully fresh, crisp acidity with a touch of bitterness at the end. It’s the perfect beverage for a warm summer evening.


It’s good to be back!


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My Pick: Vintages On-Line Exclusives -- July 14

Here’s my shopping list for this week’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.  Not much of interest this week, except for something a bit different from Tuscany:

SANTAVENERE 2006, DOCG VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO (Tuscany); #180331; 14% ABV; $28

A blend of 95% Prugnolo Gentile (the local name for Sangiovese in Montepulciano) and 5% Colorino for tannins and, as the name tells you, colour.  The winemakers are Swiss but their properties are in Italy. Most of their production is destined for the Swiss market, but the reviews lately have been good, so now they’re aiming at other markets as well. If you like a big Chianti, give this a try…after 2014.

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D'ARENBERG THE MONEY SPIDER ROUSSANNE 2008

D'ARENBERG THE MONEY SPIDER ROUSSANNE 2008, McLaren Vale (Australia); #656710; Price: $19.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Roussanne, no oak!  Aromas of honeydew melon, lime, pineapple, and wax.  Surprisingly good acidity; still, it's fairly smooth.  Pineapple and lime flavours, worked well with grilled pork.  Not quite full-bodied.  Medium length.




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DOMAINE MABY LA FORCADIÈRE ROSÉ TAVEL 2009

DOMAINE MABY LA FORCADIÈRE ROSÉ TAVEL 2009, AC Tavel (Rhone, France); #701318; Price: $15.95; 13.5% ABV

Here’s a chance to try another rosé from Tavel, considered by some the best rosé in France. A blend of mostly Grenache Noir and Cinsault, with Bourboulenc, Carignan, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. Quite a deep pink colour.  Aromas of strawberry and red cherry with a bit of dried herbs.  Red cherry on the palate with an interesting bitter almond taste at the back.  Fairly hefty for a rosé.  Wonderfully bone-dry.  It's a winner.

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TOCCHI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 2004

TOCCHI SAGRANTINO DI MONTEFALCO 2004, DOCG Sagrantino di Montefalco (Umbria, Italy); #174664; Price: $18.95; 14.4% ABV

Deep deep ruby, aromas of stewed prunes, black cherry, lots of pine, then dried herbs, black olive, and roasted coffee.  Full-bodied, the tannins are as grippy as they come; pucker up.  Flavours of cherry and plum that last reasonably long but are overwhelmed by the tannins at this point.  I recommended this wine a few weeks ago but said that it's "a wine for aging."  But I couldn't resist opening it.  I was right:  leave it alone for a few years.  It's a great bargain if you have the patience. 


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LIBRANDI DUCA SAN FELICE RISERVA ROSSO 2007

LIBRANDI DUCA SAN FELICE RISERVA ROSSO 2007, DOC Ciro (Calabria, Italy); #695874; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Gaglioppo, the dominant red varietal of Calabria (the toe of the Italian boot).  It may surprise you because it's unlike many reds from sun-baked southern Italy.  Looks like a Pinot Noir.  Aromas of cranberry and cassis, with floral notes, dried herbs, and savoury spice.  Medium-bodied, with flavours of cranberry and red cherry and soft tannins.  I like it but I like happy surprises!


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