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QUINTA DOS ACIPRESTES RESERVA 2007, DOC Douro (Portugal); #167627; Price: $21.95; 14.0% ABV
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Francesa. Dark purple (uh, like a young Port). Aromas of plum, prunes, stewed cherries, raisins, blackberry jam, sweet spice (cinnamon, clove), vanilla, and dark chocolate. Some heat on the nose. In the mouth, it's prune, stewed cherries, raisins, and wood. Yes, wood. (Aged in American, French, and Eastern European oak...so they could be over the top.) Full-bodied. Moderate length. Aggressive acidity and grainy tannins that linger longer than the fruit. But it's the woody taste that stays through to the finish.
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MALIVOIRE GUILTY MEN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #186254; Price: $19.95; 12.5% ABV
Pale yellow colour. The aromas hit all the New World bases for a Sauvignon Blanc: white grapefruit, lots of fresh herbal notes (wet grass, asparagus, green beans), and minerality. Has the racy acidity to match the white grapefruit, lime, and minerality flavours. Good length. I like it! Too bad they make so little.
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KAMANTERENA XYNISTERI 2008, Paphos (Cyprus); #179911; Price: $11.95; 12.4% ABV
100% Xynisteri, native to Cyprus. Aromas of stewed, even rotten, red apples at first, then hazelnut, pine, some minerality. Definitely oxidized, can't be sure if this is the style (like some Italian whites). Flavours are somewhat weak with lemon-lime and red apple coming through. Seems flat, past its prime; one of those wines that's meant to be consumed as soon as possible and doesn't travel well (like Fendant). Medium acidity that fades quickly, nothing lasts too long. Have to go to Cyprus to try a fresh bottle!
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FONTANAFREDDA GAVI DEL COMUNE DI GAVI 2009, DOCG Gavi (Piedmont, Italy); #75440; Price: $15.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Cortese. Light yellow. Weak aromas of lemon, white flowers, and wet stones. It offers lemon, minerality, and some nuttiness for flavours. Lacks just enough acidity, so make sure you serve this chilled or it's a bit light and flabby. The lemon and nutty flavours come through to a pleasantly bitter finish. Another Italian that's better with food...which is how they make 'em.
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PIERI AGOSTINA 2007, DOC Rosso di Montalcino (Italy); #163121; 14% ABV; $28
Surprisingly pale cherry colour, even for a Rosso. Aromas of red cherry, cranberry, plum, dried herbs (black tea), spice (anise), and leather. It's the fruit flavours that come through on the palate through to the finish with some tart acidity and suede tannins. Medium bodied, moderate length. Definitely a food wine, try it with some fresh pasta in a tomato sauce. Good but over-priced. Great label.
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This week’s release has lots of Bordeaux (pass), 7 sparkling wines, a surprising number (8) of organic wines, and a few re-releases.
Organic
Making wine from grapes without chemical fertilizers, weed killers, insecticides and other synthetic chemicals is better both for the planet and for the wine drinker. Here are 1 white, 3 reds, and a sparkling. Santé!
BABICH INDIVIDUAL VINEYARD HEADWATERS ORGANIC BLOCK SAUVIGNON BLANC 2009, Wairau Valley (Marlborough, New Zealand); #183160; Price: $19.95; 13.0% ABV
Come to where the flavour is. Certified Organic by BioGro New Zealand. Fermented in stainless steel. Let’s get some oysters!
BARRA OF MENDOCINO PINOT NOIR 2006, Mendocino (California); #191890; Price: $21.95; 13.5% ABV
Charlie Barra makes the wine. Charlie is 84. Charlie says, “We need to leave this earth the way we found it, and this doesn’t include chemicals”. But he comes easily to organic farming: before WW2, when Charlie grew up, it’s the only way they farmed. Certified by CCOF (California Certified Organic Farmers) for over 20 years.
PAUL DOLAN ZINFANDEL 2007, Mendocino (California); #46342; Price: $21.95; 14.5% ABV
Paul Dolan is a fourth-generation winemaker who’s converted to organic and some Biodynamic farming. Why? Check out his video. The California Certified Organic Farmers certifies this Zinfandel as organic. Aged 20 months in American oak.
TIZAC CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Fiambala Valley (Argentina); #173369; Price: $12.95; 13.8% ABV
The remote Fiambala Valley is just 175 km from the Chilean border, about 1400 meters above sea level. At that altitude, the sunshine is intense and the temperature varies significantly from day to night, yielding great flavours and good acidity. Fermented for 11 days. Unfiltered.
DELMAS CUVEE TRADITION BRUT NV, AC Blanquette de Limoux (Languedoc); #179978; Price $18.95; 12.0 ABV
Another treat from Languedoc. A sparkling blend of Mauzac, Chardonnay, and Chenin Blanc. Methode Traditionelle, just like in Champagne. Look for aromas of apple, white flowers, honey, and garrigue (the dried herbs of Languedoc). Organic since 1986, certified by ECOCERT.
Off the Beaten Track
Whites
Because it's the Bordeaux whites that need some attention, here’s my only pick from the Bordeaux offering:
CHATEAU DE CRUZEAU BLANC 2007, AC Pessac-Léognan (France); #966010; Price: $24.95; 12.5% ABV
A bit unusual, this white Bordeaux is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. No Semillon here. Fermented in oak barrels. Aged 10 months in oak (35% new).
TERREDORA FALANGHINA 2008, IGT Campania (Italy); #642074; Price: $15.95; 12.0% ABV
Falanghina is one of the native varieties that are the focus of Terredora, perhaps the best producer in Campania. Handpicked. Aged on its lees in stainless steel. No oak. Try it with some whitefish or a mild soft cheese (I’m thinking mozzarella).
Reds
CAVE DE TAIN LES HAUTS DU FIEF 2007, AC Crozes-Hermitage (France); #958843; Price: $24.95; 12.9% ABV
100% Syrah, aged in oak for 12 months. Cave de Tain is the wine co-operative in Northern Rhone. Braised lamb, anyone?
KIR-YIANNI RAMNISTA XINOMAVRO 2007, AOC Naoussa (Greece); #178020; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Xinomavro. The name means “acid black”. Meant to be aged, so lay it down for at least a couple of years! Handpicked grapes. Cold maceration for 4 days, then fermented for 12 days, followed by Malolactic fermentation in stainless steel. Aged 12 months in small and large French and American oak casks (15% new), then aged another 6 months in bottle before release.
FATTORIA DEL CERRO 2006; DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany); #180059; Price: $25.95; 13.0% ABV
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano...the other Tuscan red. Usually great value. A blend of Prugnolo Gentile (aka Sangiovese – 90%), Colorino (5%), and Mammolo (5%). Colorino adds tannin and (you guessed it) colour; Mammolo adds floral notes. Aged for 18 months in oak, 70% in Slovenian oak and 30% in French oak for 12 months, then 6 months in Slovenian oak. Aged 6 months in bottle before release.
LE FRAGHE 2008; DOC Bardolino (Veneto, Italy); #181198; Price: $13.95; 12.0% ABV
A blend of two of the three grapes used to make Veneto reds: Corvina and Rondinella. Bardolino is a light-bodied red, usually even more so than Valpolicella. Fermentation lasts a week, followed by Malolactic fermentation, then storage in stainless steel tanks until the following spring. No oak. Refreshing, easy-drinking, I love it with pizza.
TOKARA DIRECTOR’S RESERVE RED 2006, WO Stellenbosch (South Africa); #183962; Price: $26.95; 13.5% ABV (?)
A "Left Bank blend" of Cabernet Sauvignon (82%), Petit Verdot (10%) and Merlot (8%). Hand picked and sorted. Cold maceration for 5 days before the fermentation started spontaneously with natural yeasts. Fermented partly in stainless steel and partly in wooden fermenters. Malolactic fermentation, then aged for 20 months in 96% new French oak. Egg white fining (sorry, vegans). Unfiltered. Sounds like a great wine for Steak-Frites. Vintages lists this wine at 13.5% ABV; the winemaker says 15.0%.
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NICOLAS MAILLET 2008, AC Mâcon-Verzé (Burgundy); #702605; Price: $19.95; 13.0% ABV
Classic white burgundy appearance of medium yellow with gold hues. Surprisingly assertive aromas of tree fruit (peach, pear, and red apple), some pineapple, nuts, vanilla, and buttery notes from the oak. In the mouth, it's the red apple that comes through, with some green apple, and underripe pear. Good acidity, crisp mouthfeel. Pretty good length, with the apple flavours and acidity lasting through to the finish. Good value!
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Decanter reports that "A woman is suing UK supermarket Asda after buying a bottle of wine from the supermarket – which allegedly contained a frog."
Bet she's been a little jumpy lately.
As for the frog, it beats that proverbial pot of slowly boiling water...
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The SAQ – Société des Alcools du Québec (it’s Québec’s equivalent of the LCBO) – has revealed that it’s going into the international liquor wholesale business. The idea is that the SAQ will increase its already significant buying power ($900-million annually) by acting as a wholesaler in liquor markets in other countries. As the buyer for both its customers in Québec and its new customers around the world, the SAQ will presumably get better prices all-around. The argument appears to be that huge buyers such as Costco (in the US), Tesco (in the UK) and emerging players in the BRIC countries are taking over the wholesale liquor business. It’s “go big or go home”.
Now, I believe, as a principle, that government has no place in running a business, either wholesale or retail. That includes the liquor business. I recognize that, in my grandfather’s day, many people viewed wine and spirits as the devil’s instruments. Yes, alcoholism can be a serious health issue. Alcohol also contributes significant health benefits. But there are ways for the government to play its role as protectors and promoters of public health without running everything from A to Z.
But, as we all know, principle is one thing. Practicality is something else. In Canada, liquor businesses run by the government have been a reality for generations now. Unwinding these operations, through privatization or deregulation, would be difficult and I haven’t yet come across a proposal that describes how government would accomplish this without significant disruption to the consumer. (Not saying government can’t do it, just haven’t seen the plan yet.) Not to mention that governments are addicted to the steady revenue stream from liquor and lotteries. That’s why every time that the Government of Ontario floats the idea of selling off the LCBO, it’s never too long before it quietly retreats.
We accept (grudgingly) the government’s current place in the liquor business within its jurisdiction. But it simply compounds a mistake when the SAQ – a government monopoly with all the benefits that bestows – moves beyond its borders and competes with private sector companies. Maybe the SAQ (and LCBO) should look at using Costco or Tesco as its wholesaler. I’m sure they’d like to get their hands on $900-million in business. In the meantime, SAQ, mind your own business!
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