My Picks: Vintages Release -- May 28 2011

The trend continues this week of bucking the theme of the release. Californian wines? Nope, not a one. (5 Chardonnays…7 Cabernet Sauvignons…yawn)

Alsatian wines? One there, a Riesling. And I’ll say a good word for the rest of them too because you should get to know an under-appreciated region.  

Ah, but I found 4 Biodynamic or Organic wines. Plus some interesting wines from the rest of the big, big world.

Read more about how I choose My Picks.

Biodynamic & Organic

A white, a red, and 2 rosés...

MEINKLANG GRÜNER VELTLINER 2009, Burgenland (Austria); #219014; Price: $15.95; 11.1% ABV
Grüner Veltliner is the signature white grape variety of Austria; it's known for its citrus and white pepper character. This is a certified Biodynamic wine from the homeland of Rudolf Steiner, the father of Biodynamics. The winery belongs to a mixed-production farm that produces a number of different crops. Feelin’ groovy? Try it with grilled whitefish.

EMILIANA WINEMAKER'S SELECTION SYRAH 2009, Casablanca Valley (Chile); #212407; Price: $18.95; 14.0% ABV
A blend of Syrah (88%), Merlot (8%) and Viognier (5%). Another, albeit unusual, example of a warm climate grape grown in a cool climate on the Pacific coast. Aged in French oak (80%) and American oak (20%) for 12 months. Production of this wine is certified “carbon neutral”. I’d match it with grilled game.

SOUTHBROOK CONNECT ORGANIC ROSÉ 2010, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #168492; Price: $18.95; 12.2% ABV
100% Cabernet Franc. Fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeast, using the Saignée method. Sounds like a great match with salad or grilled chicken. Still don’t like the label, though.

EMILIANA ADOBE RESERVA ROSÉ SYRAH 2010, Rapel Valley (Chile); #229690; Price: $11.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Syrah. Fermented, then aged for 5 months, in stainless steel tanks. Certified organic. It has the heft to drink with grilled lamb chops.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

ROBERT OATLEY SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Margaret River / Pemberton (Australia); #186106; Price: $17.95; 12.2% ABV
100% Sauvignon Blanc from Western Oz. I’m a big fan of Cabernet Sauvignon from this part of Australia with its Maritime climate, so why not Sauvignon Blanc? No oak. Makes a great aperitif.

GRAHAM BECK BOWED HEAD CHENIN BLANC 2009, WO Paarl (South Africa); #231357; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Chenin Blanc. I’m a huge fan of Chenin Blanc in its home base (Loire) and here’s chance to try it in its 2nd home: South Africa. Barrel fermented, then aged 8 months in a combination of new, second, and third-use French oak. Look for tropical and floral notes. It will match well with fish on the grill; don’t be afraid to add some spices!

TRIMBACH RÉSERVE RIESLING 2008, AC Alsace (France); #995316; Price: $25.95; 13.0% ABV
Bone-dry Riesling from one of the oldest (since 1626!) and most reliable family producers in Alsace. They’re proud of their style, which emphasises minerality. You could drink it now but it will reward your patience. Better yet, buy more than one! I will…unless you guys get there first.

Reds

DOMAINE LACROIX-VANEL CUVÉE MÉLANIE 2005, AC Coteaux de Languedoc (France); #221978; Price: $24.95; 14.0% ABV
A blend of Syrah (70%), Mourvèdre (20%), and Grenache (10%). Hand harvested. 3 weeks maceration. No oak! Grilled lamb, anyone?

DOMAINE MERCOURI RED 2006, Letrinon (Greece); #652974; Price: $18.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of Refosco (a grape that’s indigenous to Friuli in northeast Italy!) and Mavrodaphne (“black laurel”) grapes. Aged 10 months in oak, then 6 months in bottle. Worth a try but save it for hardy winter dishes.

APOLLONIO TERRAGNOLO PRIMITIVO 2004, IGT Salento Rosso (Puglia); #211813; Price: $17.95; 14.5% ABV
100% Primitivo. Hand harvesting. Maceration for 30 days, followed by fermentation. Aged for 1 year in American oak barrels, then 1 year in bottle. I’m thinking BBQ ribs.

FAUSTINO CRIANZA 2007, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #214296; Price: $14.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Tempranillo. Aged 8 months in American oak, then 6 months in French oak. Solid, entry-level example of Riojan Tempranillo. Try it with grilled sausages.

Rosé

(Don't miss the 2 organic rosés further up.)

CHÂTEAU DE TRINQUEVEDEL ROSÉ 2010, AOP Tavel; #729947; Price: $17.95; 13.9% ABV
A blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Bourboulenc. Hand harvested. Cold maceration for 12 to 48 hours, depending on the variety. Fermentation takes 20 days, followed by aging for 6 months in stainless steel vats. Worth repeating, rosé is all they do in Tavel; it's not an afterthought!  Good value. Just don’t stand there, grill something.

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Eve

Birthdays are a big deal in our home; it’s always a celebration marked by dinner out at a fancy-schmancy restaurant.

We’re in DC for my birthday celebration this year and Michèle has chosen Eve, located in Old Alexandria. The chef, Cathal Armstrong, is from Dublin and spent every summer from the age of 7 in France. He describes his style as “Modern American Cooking with Classical French Influences…highlighting the freshest of seasonal ingredients and local Virginia produce.” Right up our alley.

We spent the morning at the Newseum, which I highly recommend if you’re a newshound like me. There a great view of the Capitol and Pennsylvania Avenue from the 5th floor terrace. Wait, what’s that building with all the red and white flags next door? O Canada!

That evening, we’re in the Chef’s Tasting Room, where they offer five, seven, and nine-course prix-fixe tasting options, all on custom-printed menus. The courses are: Creation (palate teasers), Ocean (seafood), Earth & Sky (meats and game), Age (cheese) and Eden (desserts). Gulp. OK, we’re celebrating but we’re not crazy! 5 courses it is.

We start with glasses of Sauvignon Blanc, a classic wine for aperitif that also goes superbly with our First Course: Sashimi of Bigeye Tuna with Pickled Fennel, Ruby Red Grapefruit and Basil Emulsion for me; Tempura of Path Valley Shiitake with Ikura (salmon roe), Smoked Onions and Ponzu for Michèle.

Our Ocean course is Olive Oil Poached Pacific Halibut with Sunchokes (Jerusalem artichokes), Melted Spring Onions and Gremolata for Michèle. For me, it’s Roasted Tasmanian Sea Trout (so much for local!) with Baby White Asparagus Risotto, Kumquat, and Fava Bean Purée. Both are delicious and pair well with glasses of Chardonnay from Washington (not DC, the other one).

On to Earth and Sky. My choice is closer to local: Loin of Shenandoah Valley Lamb with Fresh Garbanzo Falafel, Homemade Yogurt and Baby Carrots. Michèle goes for one of her favourites, Pan Fried Veal Sweetbreads with Mushroom Butter Hollandaise, Poached Morels and Irish Peas.

I’ve scanned the winelist for something “off the beaten track” and the choice comes down to DuMOL Syrah 2007, Russian River Valley (California); 14.2% ABV. Russian River Valley is known for its cool climate varietals, but here’s Syrah, typically more at home in warmer climates. For that reason (a warm climate grape in a cool climate), I’m thinking it will go well with both the lamb and the sweetbreads (the latter usually needs a lighter wine). Aromas of blackberry and plum, gamy, and floral notes with a hint of dried herbs too. It’s black fruit and gamyness dominate on the palate. The tannins are well-integrated, holding their own with the lamb but not overwhelming the sweetbreads. Excellent finish. A good match for both.

We finish the Syrah with the cheese:

• Monocacy Silver with Garden Rhubarb, Blood Orange and Toasted Walnut. A brie-style goat cheese from Montgomery County, on the other side of DC.
• Pleasant Ridge Reserve with Sicilian Pistachios and Sour Cherry Filled Doughnut. A raw cows-milk cheese from Wisconsin, similar to Gruyere. Definitely our favourite.

On to Eden and, yes, we have room. Michèle selects the White Chocolate Chai Rice Pudding and my choice is the Milk Chocolate and Jameson Petit Gâteau with Caramel Sauce.  The candle is a bonus!

Great food, good wine.  What a terrific birthday treat!  Merci, Michèle!

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Kinkead's

It's one of those classic spring days, when the day dawns bright and sunny. You need a jacket in the morning, but you know that by mid-afternoon, the jacket will be off and you’ll be rolling up your sleeves.

It’s perfect weather for sightseeing and long walks, which in DC is the same thing.

Some sights (Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial) I’ve seen many times before. Some are new since I lived here: World War II, Korean War, Vietnam War. All are impressive in their own way and all capture the historical essence that we associate with those wars: generational triumph, stalemate, and the deep gash in the national psyche.



We’ll be having a quick dinner this evening (we're off to see Pink Martini at the JFK Center).  So we make time for a long, leisurely lunch at Kinkead’s (pronounced as Kin-kaid), which styles itself as “an American Brasserie”. Seafood is the speciality.

For our mains, I choose grilled flounder, served on a bed of endives and tomatoes in a lemon sauce with capers and pickled cucumber on top. Michèle chooses the Organic Chicken, served with chanterelles, fava beans, porcini cream, and mashed potatoes. Both are superb.

The selected wine is the only Chenin Blanc on the menu: Couly-Dutheil Les Chanteaux 2009, AOC Chinon. Wonderfully fresh floral, citrus, and mineral aromas. It’s citrus and minerality on the palate with good length. Crisp, but with enough body to be a terrific match with both dishes. Great price too. Ah, Chenin Blanc from the Loire…so little respect…it’s one of the great values.


Great service that hit all the right notes. An example: they hadn't chilled the Chinon ahead of time, so the waiter gave us a couple of glasses of wine to enjoy while the Chinon chilled down to the right temperature in an ice bucket.

Watching crew teams on the Potomac
with the Watergate in the background

We walked off our terrific lunch through Georgetown, and then slowly made our way along the Potomac to the JFK Center, stopping to enjoy the sunshine along the way.  Jacket off, sleeves rolled up.

Great show by Pink Martini caps off a magnificent day.





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My Picks: Vintages Release -- May 14 2011

This release was a tough one. Never before have I encountered so much difficulty in finding out more about the wines in a release.

Just 2 weeks ago, I noted that some (too many) winemakers don’t devote enough time to their websites, which is their most important medium for connecting directly with consumers. Some don’t have a website at all, while others don’t keep their websites up to date, including some very big names. In this release, the famous Rhone winemaker Guigal is a surprisingly example of the latter case. (Mind you, I found 3 instances where the winemaker’s website featured the vintage after the one offered this week at Vintages. An example: Quails’ Gate features their 2009 Chardonnay on their website, but it’s the 2008 Chardonnay on the shelves this Saturday at Vintages. Where has the wine been?)

The upshot? Well, the theme of this week’s release is Southern Rhone 2009: a great year in a region that’s a personal favourite. But none of the winemakers met the criteria that I set in My Picks.

The secondary theme is rosé wines and 3 made the list. Whew.

Combing through the list, there are still some interesting choices.

Biodynamic

BONNY DOON BEESWAX VINEYARD LE CIGARE BLANC 2008, Arroyo Seco (California); #95331; Price: $29.95; 14.3% ABV

If a man loses pace with his companions, perhaps it is because he hears a different drummer. Let him step to the music which he hears, however measured, or far away. (Thoreau)

Randall Grahm, winemaker at Bonny Doon, marches to a different beat. He’s been one of my favourites for a long time, especially his rosé wine Vin Gris de Cigare, which shows up at Vintages from time to time. He specializes (not exclusively) in grape varieties of the Rhone Valley. This one is a blend of Roussanne (57%) and Grenache Blanc (43%). Roussanne often has an aroma of beeswax, hence the name.  Try it with some grilled portobello mushrooms.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

KIM CRAWFORD UNOAKED CHARDONNAY 2009, Marlborough (New Zealand); #991950; Price: $17.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Chardonnay. That’s right, I’m recommending a Chardonnay. What makes this one different? It’s unoaked from a cool climate, the South Island of NZ. 80% Malolactic fermentation. Tasting is believing. Grill some fish.

DOMAINE GEROVASSILIOU WHITE 2009, Epanomi (Greece); #999714; Price: $19.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Assyrtiko and Malagousia, both native to the region (if you hadn’t guessed from the names). Assyrtiko brings minerality and citrus aromas and flavours; Malagousia brings more floral notes but lacks the acidity that Assyrtiko offers. They keep the juice on the skins for a few hours, then fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Perfect with grilled seafood. Drink soon.


Reds

D'ARENBERG THE LAUGHING MAGPIE SHIRAZ/VIOGNIER 2008, McLaren Vale (Australia); #936971; Price: $29.95; 14.5% ABV
A Cote-Rotie-styled blend of Shiraz (94%) and Viognier (6%). The two varieties are co-fermented in new and old French and old American oak barrels, followed by aging for 10 months on its lees in the same barrels. No fining or filtration, so decant this one. If you haven’t tried an Aussie Shiraz/Viognier blend yet, don’t pass this up. The Laughing Magpie refers to the local Kookaburra.

TOR DEL COLLE RISERVA 2006, DOC Montepulciano D’Abruzzo (Italy); #211847; Price: $ 12.95
100% Montepulciano. Fermentation for 10 days. Unusual: Aged 12 months in oak, 12 months in stainless steel. What a bargain! A perfect everyday wine for pasta and pizza with tomato-based sauce. Or maybe the next one is the perfect everyday Italian wine…

MAURO VEGLIO 2009, DOC Dolcetto D'Alba (Italy); #214486; Price: $16.95; 12.9% ABV
100% Dolcetto, the little sweet one. But it’s not sweet. Maceration for 4 days. Fermented off the skins in steel tanks, followed by Malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity. Left in the stainless steel tanks for 6 months, then put in oak barrels for 2 months to settle. Bottled without fining and filtration, so it might need decanting. Again, it’s great to have on hand with pizza or some sausages on the grill.

LAR DE PAULA RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #208207; Price: $21.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Tempranillo, aged 18 months in American and French oak, then 18 months in the bottle before release. It’s Tempranillo, it’s Rioja, it’s all you need to know. Worth cellaring.

ONDARRE RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #723452; Price: $19.95; 12.8% ABV
A blend of Tempranillo (75%), Garnacha (10%), and Mazuelo (15%). Fermented separately; maceration for 16 days. Aged 16 months in American and French oak barrels. Ready to drink now. I tried the 2002 Reserva last year with wild turkey and loved it.


Rosés

CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA ROSÉ 2010, AC Tavel (France); #319368; Price: $18.95; 12.9% ABV
For many, it’s Tavel that’s the classic rosé! A blend of 4 red grape varieties and 3 white grape varieties: Grenache (52%), Syrah (12%), Mourvèdre (11%), Cinsault (9%), Clairette (9%), Bourboulenc (6%), and Picpoul (2%). Hand harvested, then maceration for 24 hours. All vinified separately with natural yeasts, blended two by two (which two, I don’t know), then they're all blended together. The Tavel designation is for rosé only. Aquéria is the largest estate of Tavel.

MAS DES BRESSADES CUVÉE TRADITION ROSÉ 2010, AC Costières de Nîmes (France); #950576; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah (30%), and Cinsault (20%). Fermented in stainless steel tanks using the Saignée method, where they bleed the juice off the grapes after a day or so.

MUGA ROSÉ 2010, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #603795; Price: $12.95; 13.0% ABV
The 2009 was one of my favourite rosés from last year. The blend of Garnacha (60%), Viura (30%) and Tempranillo (10%) is unchanged from 2009. Viura is a white variety. 12 hours of maceration, followed by fermentation for 25 days in 1000-litre oak vats, then left to age in the same vats for 2 months before bottling.


Sparkling

MASOTTINA EXTRA DRY, DOCG Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore; #216317; Price: $19.95; 10.7% ABV
Spring is the season of celebrations: weddings, anniversaries, graduations, and more. And nothing says celebration like a sparkling wine. Not looking to break the bank? Here’s your choice. Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore is one of Italy’s newest DOCGs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). Whether expanding the list of DOCGs is good is a matter of opinion. What’s not debatable is that Prosecco offers great value in a sparkling wine. Made using the Charmat method (fermentation occurs in large stainless steel tanks) it’s crisp and clean, not too high in alcohol. Up until 2009, when the Italian government granted DOCG status to Conegliano Valdobbiadene, Prosecco was the name of the grape and the wine. Because other growers outside Conegliano Valdobbiadene also used the same grape, they changed the name of the grape to another traditional name, Glera.  So now Prosecco is the wine, Glera is the grape.

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J&G Steakhouse

Sightseeing is hard work, requiring stamina, determination, and at the end of the day, a culinary reward.

In Washington DC, there are many things to see: from the White House to Capitol Hill, everything in-between and beyond. To be sure, you can walk everywhere. But careful…it all looks close together on the map and even in person. But because the scale of everything is so grand (quite the opposite of the intimacy of Ottawa’s downtown), objects actually are farther away than they appear.

Luckily, DC has an excellent metro system. Back when I lived here, the public transit system was a local joke. It’s just one of the many things in DC that have changed for the better.

As for our reward at the end of the day, we needed steak. There’s no shortage of steakhouses in this red meat town. We bypassed the usual suspects and opted for J&G Steakhouse, just a stone’s throw from the White House. (Not that I tried throwing stones at the White House. Ill-advised, they tell me.)

J&G Steakhouse is a Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant. (Vongerichten is an Alsatian who is now one of those worldwide chefs.) After a salad as an appetizer, I chose the 14 oz Six Peppercorn Prime NY Steak with sides of Frites and sautéed kale while Michèle selected the 8 oz Filet Mignon. For me, steak needs to have good body and texture. Rib Eye, Hanger, New York, that’s a steak. I don’t care for steak disguised as melted butter, which is what Wagyu can often be. My steak had just the right amount of chewy texture that makes steak so enjoyable.

Our wine is the Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Stags Leap District, 14.9% ABV. It’s an almost-Meritage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (75%), Merlot (12%), Malbec (7%), Cabernet Franc (4%), and Petit Verdot (2%). Aromas of cassis, sweet spices, and a touch of earthiness. The cassis and spice follow on the palate with soft, well-integrated tannins. Some dark chocolate on the finish. No unpleasant heat from the high alcohol level. Good length, but perhaps lacks the structure I like with a good steak.



Service at J&G is quite the opposite of our dinner at Hank’s Oyster House. Friendly, efficient, unobtrusive and, most importantly, unhurried. Oh, I’m sure they can rush an order if called upon. But, for us, we finished our wine leisurely after the main course. No sign of the dessert menu until the wine was gone. The way it should be. The restaurant was full but we felt we could have stayed there as long as we wanted.

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Hank's Oyster Bar

It’s weird to be back in Northern Virginia, in the suburbs of Washington DC. It’s where I went to high school, oh so many years ago. And except for some quick business trips to DC from time to time, I haven’t come back until now. There’s a familiarity to the place, a feeling of déjà vu. Yet so much has changed that there’s a certain strangeness, or estrangement, to the place. Like a dream.

It’s spring here. Real spring, not calendar spring.  Driving south from Ottawa, near Scranton, we can see the sharp demarcation between winter and spring, between dormancy and budburst. 

Our first dinner is at Hank’s Oyster Bar in Alexandria. It’s a popular little joint; crowded on a Tuesday evening. We get the only open table and the line-up starts forming at the door just after we sit down. But it has that typically American approach to service…fast, get ‘em in…get ‘em out…that ensures that no one is waiting for long.

It’s an oyster bar so regular readers should be in no doubt about what I’m going to order. There are 9 different types of oysters on offer. I take a dozen, 3 each of 4 different ones.

Two from the west coast:

• Dabob Bay, light and salty
• Little Skookum from Puget Sound, smooth and rich

Two from the east coast:

• Bluepoint from Long Island, nothing distinctive here
• Delaware, big and meaty

Now, Hank’s does something that I’ve never seen at an oyster bar before but it’s blindingly obvious. Instead of plunking down the plate of oysters and rattling off the names (which I can never remember just 10 seconds later), the server puts the plate down with the order ticket next to it. The shucker arranged the oysters on the plate in the same order as on the ticket, clockwise, starting at 12 o’clock. Simple, effective, clever.  No "what was this one again?"

We order Nessa Albarino 2009. Bit of a greenish tint. Typical citrus, floral, and mineral aromas. Crisp lime on the palate and just a bit of peach pit bitterness on the finish. Great match for the oysters.

I followed up with seared scallops while Michèle had the lobster roll. The food was delicious (bit too salty) but the Albarino was too light-bodied with these choices.  Ah well, nobody's perfect.

Hank’s: good oysters, good (but too fast) service.


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