My Picks: Vintages Release ─ September 3 2011

As much as the last release was a feast, this one is more of a famine. Maybe because it’s Labour Day weekend and folks will be too busy partying to buy wine? Or perhaps it’s just me. The theme of the release is blends. I found them heavy in the Big Grape Varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz), which are not my focus.

And sometimes when I did find something interesting, the price pushed them off My Picks list. Just 10 wines made the cut.

Oh well, there are a couple of worthy blended wines from South Africa. (Some readers will have been alarmed, as I was, by the recent report from Human Rights Watch [Ripe with Abuse – Human Rights Conditions in South Africa’s Fruit and Wine Industries]. However, I could find no references to the wineries listed below or to their specific locations. There may be problems with some wine companies in South Africa but that doesn’t mean there are problems with all wine companies in South Africa.)

On the other hand, there are 2 relatively rare (for Ontario) Varietal wines that make an appearance: Alsatian Sylvaner and Austrian Blaufränkisch. Hooray for the letter “A”!

Organic

SAN MICHELE A TORRI 2009, DOCG Chianti Colli Fiorentini (Italy); #900258; Price: $15.00; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Sangiovese (80%), Canaiolo (15%), and Colorino (5%). Hand harvested. Fermented in steel vats with maceration for 15 days. Aged 30% in oak, 70% in concrete. Chianti for $15? Yes! Certified organic by the Consortium for the Control of Organic Products of Italy. Pizza, anyone?

Off the Beaten Track

Whites


STAG'S LEAP WINE CELLARS SAUVIGNON BLANC 2008, Napa Valley (California); #243162; Price: $29.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of 78% Sauvignon Blanc (78%), Sauvignon Musque – a variation of Sauvignon Blanc – (17%) and Semillon (5%). Aged for 5 months, partially in neutral (4th and 5th use) French oak barrels (63%) and stainless steel tanks (37%). No Malolactic fermentation.  Drink now.

MOMO CHARDONNAY 2009, Marlborough (New Zealand); #247247; Price: $18.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Chardonnay from the southern island, a bit of a rarity. Cool climate, my favourite for Chardonnay. Hand harvested. Barrel fermented using wild yeast. Aged in the barrel on its lees for 11 months.

CAVE D'OBERNAI SYLVANER 2009, AC Alsace (France); #223883; Price: $13.95; 12.1% ABV
OK, I can’t tell you much about this particular wine. It’s here for my nostalgia for Alsace and the many years when I lived just across the river from Alsace in the Black Forest. One of my favourite summer sippers:  it’s the perfect aperitif: light-bodied, crisp acidity.


Reds

LAMADRID SINGLE VINEYARD RESERVA MALBEC 2008, Mendoza (Argentina); #234492; Price: $15.00; 14.0% ABV
100% Malbec from a single vineyard. Hand harvested. Cold maceration for 7 days, then fermented with indigenous yeast in concrete vats for 22 days. Spontaneous Malolactic fermentation in oak barrels for 30 days. Aged for 12 months in French oak barrels (50% second use, 50% third use). No filtering, no fining, so be sure to decant. A great match for any grilled meat.

A TO Z WINEWORKS CHEMIN DE TERRE 2006, Oregon; #234724; Price: $14.95; 13.0% ABV
A kitchen-sink blend of Merlot (44%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17.5%), Syrah (17.5%), Cabernet Franc (9%), Sangiovese (6%), Grenache (4%), and Pinot Noir (2%). Aged 18 months in French oak and 15 months in bottle before release. I’d match it to roast game.

LAMMERSHOEK ROULETTE 2006, WO Swartland (South Africa); #58164; Price: $23.95; 14.0% ABV
A “Southern Rhone” blend of Syrah (48%), Carignan (25%), Grenache (20%), Mourvèdre (5%), and Viognier (2%). Hand harvested. Separately fermented in open-topped concrete tanks. Malolactic fermentation and aging in older barrels. Blended, then more aging in concrete tanks. 

MULLINEUX SYRAH 2008, WO Swartland; #246553; Price: $28.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Syrah from 6 different vineyards. Hand harvested. After 4 days of maceration, fermented with indigenous yeasts for 7 days with further maceration for two weeks. Malolactic fermentation and aging in oak barrels (15% new) for 11 months. Unfiltered and unfined; it’s another candidate for decanting.

REBENFELD BLAUFRÄNKISCH 2007, AC Burgenland (Austria); #218420; Price: $15.95; 13.3% ABV
Blaufränkisch is a grape variety that’s indigenous to Burgenland, in eastern Austria, on the Hungarian border. Known for its high acidity and a spicy character. Couldn’t find much about this one (other than it’s fermented on the skins and undergoes Malolactic fermentation) but it gets a pass, simply because it’s so far off the beaten track. Try it with roast chicken.

TOCCHI 2004, DOCG Sagrantino di Montefalco (Italy); #174664; Price: $19.95; 14.4% ABV
A big wine made from Sagrantino grapes (indigenous to Umbria) that’s admittedly not to everyone’s taste…but I love it. Long maceration to make a dark wine with lots of healthy tannins. Malolactic fermentation. Aged 25 months in oak barrels, then 5 more months in bottle. This one will keep (and get better) for a few more years. A rib-eye steak is what you need with this wine!

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My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives ─ August 25 2011

Looks like Vintages On-Line Exclusives is back on a regular basis! It disappeared for 4 months starting last August and then showing up on an irregular basis for the first 6 months of 2011 with mostly expensive offerings. But since mid-June, it’s offered new selections every 2 weeks, alternating with the in-store release.

Never heard of Vintages On-Line Exclusives? You’re not alone. Even LCBO employees don’t know about it, or don’t know how to access it to help a customer. Here’s a little story.

About a month ago, a reader wrote to ask me if I knew where he could find some Tintilia for a very special occasion. (Tintilia is a grape variety that’s native to Molise, a tiny and poor region in southeast Italy. In Sardinia, they call it Bovale Grande.)  As he explained to me, “The people at the LCBO couldn't help.”  I had written about a Tintilia wine back in January 2010 that was available through Vintages On-Line Exclusives. I checked to see if there might be some still available and, voilà, there it was: the same wine with 88 bottles sitting in the warehouse. (And as I write this, there are still 69 bottles available. Hasn’t anyone heard of markdowns at the Vintages?! It’s been there for 17 months!)

So the lesson, dear reader, is when you’re looking for something a little bit different, not available at the store, check out Vintages On-Line Exclusives. You can order online or by calling Vintages at 1-800-266-4764. They will deliver to any LCBO outlet.

BTW, emails and comments are always welcomed!

Now, here are 2 selections from this week’s on-line release, with 3 more from earlier releases.

From this week:

R. LÓPEZ DE HEREDIA VIÑA CUBILLO CRIANZA 2005, DOC Rioja (Spain); #692780; 12% ABV; $25
A blend of Tempranillo (65%), Garnacha (25%), Mazuelo and Graciano (10%). Aged 3 years in American oak barrels, fined with egg whites but unfiltered. López de Heredia makes wine the time-honoured Riojan way, with long aging in American oak. Soft tannins with lots of secondary (from the oak) and tertiary (from aging) aromas, in addition to the fruit. Not to everyone’s taste but I love it.

MONTIRIUS LE CLOS 2006, AC Vacqueyras (France); #76547; 14% ABV; $28
An equal blend of Grenache and Syrah. No oak! Certified organic by ECOCERT and Biodynamic by Biodyvin.


From earlier releases:

MESH RIESLING 2008, Eden Valley (Australia); #627877; 12% ABV; $27.95
It’s Australian Riesling, OK? Great stuff.  And a joint venture between 2 Riesling specialists: one from Yalumba and one from Clare Valley. They picked the grapes from alternate rows from 2 different vineyards, vinified them separately, then blended the finished products to get to a single wine. What a mesh! The winemakers say it’s suitable for vegans, which is reason enough to drink.

And now, the Schiopetto twins:

SCHIOPETTO PINOT GRIGIO 2008, DOC Collio (Italy); #234757; 14% ABV; $29.95
100% Pinot Grigio. Hand harvested. Fermented 10 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged on its lees there too for 8 months. Try it with seafood.

SCHIOPETTO FRIULANO 2008, DOC Collio (Italy); #93526; 14% ABV; $29.95
100% Friulano. Hand harvested. Fermented for 10 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged on its lees for 8 months. Don’t know Friulano? It’s indigenous to northeast Italy and worth trying! Known for its tree fruit, floral and almond aromas. Great as an aperitif.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ August 20 2011

Number 250!

It’s Christmas in August! The main theme of the release features wines from one of my favourite regions: Languedoc-Roussillon. Half of My Picks come from there.  If you don’t know the wines of Languedoc-Roussillon, it's a great chance to introduce them to your table.  Known for aromas of black fruit, spices and, most distinctly, “Garrigue”, which is imparted by the wild herbs (think thyme and rosemary) that grow throughout the regional scrubland. Very food friendly and ideal with grilled meats, especially lamb.  Lots of different blends available and there’s a single Varietal Carignan to check out.

Plus there’s a Chinon (Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley) and a Pinot Noir from the Mornington Peninsula.  Ozsome.

And 3 interesting organic wines.

Organic & Biodynamic

AMPELOS GAMMA SYRAH 2006, Santa Rita Hills (California); #239459; Price: $27.95; 14.3% ABV
100% Syrah from Santa Barbara (Sideways country). Cold-soaked for 3 days in open-top fermenters, then (surprisingly for a Biodynamic producer) inoculated with yeasts. After 12 days’ fermentation, transferred into oak barrels for Malolactic fermentation. Aged in 35% new oak (a combination of 100% French oak barrels and hybrid barrels that have American oak staves and French oak heads) and 70% in neutral oak (barrels used more than 3 times). Unfined and unfiltered, so decanting is a good idea. Certified Biodynamic by Demeter, certified organic by USDA, and certified “Sustainability in Practice” by the Central Coast Vineyard Team.

Here's one of the Languedoc wines:

HEGARTY CHAMANS NO. 1 SYRAH/CARIGNAN 2005, AC Minervois (France); #250605; Price: $24.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Syrah (60%) and Carignan (40%). Hand harvested. Fermented with indigenous yeasts. They fermented the Carignan and 25% of the Syrah at a cool temperature (which takes longer) and they fermented the remainder of the Syrah for 6 weeks in concrete tanks. Aged 16 months in new French oak and another 18 months on its lees in tanks. Unfined. The winemaker’s symbol is a black sheep. As they say, “We may not please everyone, but hopefully we can reward the adventurous.”  Be adventurous!  (They've had organic certification since 2007 and Biodynamic certification with the 2010 vintage.  This wine predates that but they were following organic and Biodynamic principles back then as well.)  As for a food match, I'm game for anything.

PARÉS BALTÀ MAS ELENA 2007, DOC Penedes (Spain); #687236; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV
There’s more to Penedes than Torres! A non-indigenous blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc made by the two women oenologists: Marta Casas and María Elena Jimenez. Separate maceration and fermentation of the three varieties. Malolactic fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Aged 8 months in French oak barrels, then blended. No herbicides, pesticides or any chemical fertilizer. The sheep do the fertilizing in the off-season. Certified organic by CCPAE (Consell Català de la Producció Agrària Ecológica).  Why not try it with a grilled ribeye?  The sheep have contributed enough to the effort.

Off the Beaten Track 

White

JEANJEAN ORMARINE 2010, AOC Picpoul de Pinet (Languedoc); #525287; Price: $12.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Picpoul, the wonderfully fresh, acidic white wine from the shores of the Mediterranean. A great aperitif, but it’s amazing with raw oysters…or damn near anything else from the sea!


Red

STONIER PINOT NOIR 2009, Mornington Peninsula (Australia); #25338; Price: $24.95; 13.0% ABV
From the cool climate just south of Melbourne, where they do amazing stuff with Pinot Noir. Fermented in both small open fermenters and larger closed fermenters, with 5% carbonic maceration. Malolactic fermentation, then aging for 10 months, in French oak (10% new).

DOMAINE BERNARD BAUDRY CHINON 2009, AC Chinon (France); #940783; Price: $19.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. Very underappreciated, thanks to the big US critics, who don't much like Cabernet Franc. Hand harvested. Fermented in concrete vats. Aged in neutral oak vats for 12 months. A good price too!  Great with roast chicken and veggies.

CHÂTEAU DE FLAUGERGUES CUVÉE SOMMELIÈRE 2007, AC Coteaux de Languedoc (France); #65896; Price: $17.95; 13.8% ABV
A classic blend of Grenache noir (50%), Syrah (30%), and Mourvèdre (20%) from vineyards right in Montpellier.  Fermented for 4 weeks. Aged in tanks for 9 months. Lamb (grilled, roasted, or braised) is the classic match. The producer says it’s a “red for laying down”. Interpret that as you will.

CHATEAU DE L'ILLE CUVÉE ANGÉLIQUE 2008, AC Corbières (France); #237578; Price: $15.95; 13.7% ABV
A blend of Syrah (60%) and Grenache noir (40%). Maceration for 15 days. They aged some of the Grenache in oak for 8 months before blending. Try it with grilled merguez.

DOMAINE DE BILA-HAUT OCCULTUM LAPIDEM 2008, AC Cotes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #643239; Price: $21.95; 12.0% ABV
A blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan, my favourite blend from the south of France. (Carignan brings tannin and minerality to complement the fruit and spice of Syrah and Grenache.) Hand-harvested. Maceration of 4 weeks. Half aged concrete vats, half in oak casks. You can’t go wrong with grilled lamb.

L'ARGENTIER VIEILLES VIGNES DE CARIGNAN 2007, Vin de Pays du Gard (France); #250712; Price: $19.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Carignan from vines planted in 1935. Carignan is a traditional grape variety in Languedoc, much of it ripped out in the previous decades in a misguided marketing approach. Hand harvested. Fermented in concrete vats, then aged in those vats for 18 months. No oak. If you like your tannins, this one’s for you. Try it with duck confit.


Rosé

MONCIGALE MINÉRAL ROSÉ 2010, AC Bandol (France); #226670; Price: $18.95; 13.5% ABV
Get a buzz with mon cigale. A blend of Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault. With that name, there’s got to be some minerality. Bouillabaisse!

ARGIOLAS SERRA LORI ROSÉ 2010, IGT Isola dei Nuraghi (Sardinia); #224931; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of Cannonau (aka Grenache), Monica, Carignano, Bovale Sardo. Hand-harvested. Partial carbonic maceration and traditional maceration for just 3 hours for a touch of colour. Fermented for 4 weeks. It’s from an island, so match it with anything grilled from the sea. I have a craving for sardines.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ August 6 2011

There’s a lot of choice in this weekend’s release from Vintages. The main theme is Chile, and I found 3 for My Picks.

There are also 5 wines from British Columbia and although none of them made my final list, I encourage you to take a close look. Anything we can do to encourage bringing BC wines into Ontario (and vice versa) helps convince our lawmakers that it’s time to break down those antiquated interprovincial trade barriers.

Don't miss the Beaujolais!

Organic 

EMILIANA ADOBE RESERVA SYRAH 2009, Rapel Valley (Chile); #213553; Price: $12.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Syrah from the Rapel Valley, a Mediterranean climate (good for Syrah) that sits at the midpoint of Chile’s winegrowing regions. 20% aged in French oak for 6 months. Try it with some grilled lamb chops.

Off the Beaten Track

White

Try either one of these first 2 wines with grilled chicken:

CRIOS DE SUSANA BALBO TORRONTÉS 2010, Salta (Argentina); #1834; Price: $11.95; 13.5% ABV
If you like Viognier, try Torrontés. This one is from way up in Salta (northern Argentina). Loved the 2008. Another wine to drink young. Susana Balbo is the most known female enologist in Argentina.

Of course, if you really like Viognier…

ANAKENA LILÉN SINGLE VINEYARD VIOGNIER 2010, DO Requinoa (Chile); #45138; Price: $13.95; 13.7% ABV
100% Viognier from a district within the Rapel Valley. 45% barrel-fermented in French oak. 25% aged in French oak barrels for 4 months.

Now here’s something I find interesting. Two Chardonnays(!) from the same winemaker…one Old World from Chablis and one New World from Chile. Compare and contrast.

WILLIAM FÈVRE CHILE GRAN CUVÉE CHARDONNAY 2009, Maipo Valley (Chile); #45146; Price: $16.95; 13.9% ABV
100% Chardonnay from a single vineyard in the Maipo Valley; the vineyard is almost 1000 meters above sea level. Fèvre imported this chardonnay clone from their Chablis vineyard 20 years ago. 10% fermented in French oak barrels, the rest in 6,ooo-litre stainless steel tanks. Aged on its lees for 10 months, then filtered.

WILLIAM FÈVRE 2008, AC CHABLIS 1ER CRU (France); #169805; Price: $29.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Chardonnay, likely a blend from the 8 Premier Cru vineyards that Fèvre has. Hand harvested. Gravity-fed separation of juice from skins. 50% aged in French oak for 10 months, the rest in stainless steel. Try it with grilled fish or chicken.

CIÙ CIÙ LA MERLETTAIE PECORINO 2009, DOP Offida (Marche, Italy); #245670; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Pecorino. That’s right, just like the sheep that make the cheese. Hand harvested. Barrel-fermented. Aged 6 months in oak, then 3 months in bottle. Known for its minerality, it’s one of those indigenous Italian varieties brought back from near extinction. A rarity in these parts. La Merlettaie are “the lacemakers”. Drink it with…pecorino cheese!

TERUZZI & PUTHOD 2010, DOCG Vernaccia Di San Gimignano (Italy); #735373; Price: $15.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Vernaccia Di San Gimignano, the Manhattan of Tuscany. Fermented in stainless steel with cultured yeasts. Vernaccia Di San Gimignano was the first Italian white to win DOC status, and I can remember when Parker said it was the sole Italian white worth drinking. That’s changed, but it’s still worth checking what the fuss is about. Known for its minerality and its bitter almond finish. A great aperitif.

ABAD DOM BUENO GODELLO 2009, DO Bierzo (Spain); #154302; Price: $15.95; 13.0% ABV
Godello (aka Verdelho) is a grape variety indigenous to northwestern Spain. Maceration for 48 hours, followed by fermentation for seven days.  Aged 8 months in stainless steel.  No oak!


Red

CONCHA Y TORO TERRUNYO BLOCK 27 CARMENÈRE 2007, DO Peumo (Rapel Valley, Chile); #562892; Price: $29.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Carmenère (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (12%), Petit Verdot (2%) and Cabernet Franc (1%). Hand harvested. Aged in French oak (80% new, 20% one-year-old) for 18 months. Bring on the ribs!

JEAN-PAUL BRUN TERRES DORÉES 2009, AC Côte de Brouilly (France); #235127; Price: $18.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Gamay. Jean-Paul Brun is a throwback who makes Beaujolais the old-fashioned way. He uses indigenous yeasts, not the cultured yeasts that turn Beaujolais into a candyfloss and banana horror. Lower alcohol, lower sulphur dioxide, minimal chaptalisation or filtration. Brun is famous among traditionalists. 2009 is a great year for Beaujolais. Find out why.

TERREDORA LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL VESUVIO ROSSO 2008, DOC Vesuvio (Italy); #93088; Price: $18.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Piedirosso, from the largest producer in Campania. 6 days maceration. Aged 8 months in French oak. It ain’t your father’s Lacryma Christi!


Rosé

CHÂTEAU LES BERTRANDS 2010, AC Bordeaux Clairet (France); #224972; Price: $12.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Merlot (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (30%). Made using the Saignée method (bleeding the juice after 24 hours of maceration; the rest of the juice goes on to make red wine). After bleeding, it's fermented in stainless steel, then aged on its lees for 3 months. Great with grilled shrimp.

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