My Picks: Vintages Release ─ March 3 2012

This week’s main theme is “Made in France”, showcasing eight of the justifiably famous regions and their grape varieties that France has brought to the world.  It’s a noble idea but, for the most part, the execution fails.  Four of the regions have just one wine on offer!  The 3 Alsatian wines are all off-dry; where Alsace excels is in deliciously crisp varietal wines.  Vintages continues its underrepresentation of the Loire Valley, with just one wine, a white of course.  (But it’s a good one.)  3 of the wines made the cut here.  

The secondary theme is Carmenère, the delicious and accessible signature varietal wine from Chile.  As usual, I find the secondary theme to be the more interesting one.  There are 6 examples to choose from and 2 made it onto My Picks.

Nothing organic this week.  Again.      

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

The 3 whites share a common profile, which happens to be one of my favourites:  citrus aromas and crisp, even sharp, acidity.  Ideal as aperitifs or with white fish (cooked any way you like) and grilled seafood.  Oh, and don’t forget the raw oysters!

CHÉREAU-CARRÉ LA GRIFFE BERNARD CHÉREAU 2010, AC Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie (Loire); #948182; Price: $14.95; 12.0% ABV

100% Melon de Bourgogne.  Aged briefly on its lees (spent yeasts) to take off a bit of the acidic edge.

PASCAL JOLIVET 2010, AC Sancerre (Loire); #264945; Price: $24.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc from several vineyards in one of its classic regions.  In other words, you pay for that name, Sancerre.  Different batches fermented separately with natural yeasts, then blended.

ZENATO LUGANA SAN BENEDETTO 2010, DOC Lugana (Veneto, Italy); #707158; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Trebbiano di Lugana.  Cool fermentation in stainless steel.

Reds

CONCHA Y TORO TERRUNYO VINEYARD SELECTION BLOCK 27 CARMENÈRE 2008, Cachapoal Valley (Chile); #562892; Price: $29.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Carmenere (85%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (15%).  From Cachapoal Valley, known for its Carmenere.  Handpicked.  Aged 19 months in French oak barrels (70% new and 30% one-year-old).  Put this one away for the summer with BBQ ribs.

MISIONES DE RENGO GRAN RESERVA CUVÉE CARMENÈRE 2010, Rapel Valley (Chile); #264937; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Carmenère (89%), Cabernet Sauvignon (7%) and Syrah (4%).  Handpicked.  Pre-fermentation maceration for 5 days.  Fermented separately in stainless steel tanks, followed by post-fermentation maceration.   Aged in first- and second-use French and American oak barrels for 12 months, then blended. Bottled and aged for 6 months before release.  The winemaker suggests matching with, among other things, full-bodied fish such as tuna or albacore.  Hmmm, I like it!

DOMAINE THUNEVIN-CALVET CUVÉE CONSTANCE 2008, AC Cotes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #168690; Price: $18.95; 13.5% ABV

An equal blend of Grenache and Carignan.  Aged 14 months in concrete tanks.  No fining or filtration.  A classic example of what sunny Roussillon wines are all about.  Try it with lamb stew. (St Paddy’s Day is coming!)

DELAS FRÈRES LES LAUNES 2009, AC Crozes-Hermitage (Northern Rhone, France); #701359; Price: $20.95; 12.8% ABV

100% Syrah.  Handpicked.  Fermentation in open concrete tanks, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged 30% in oak barrels, 70% in concrete tanks.  Filtered.  Try it with grilled meats.

UMANI RONCHI SAN LORENZO ROSSO CONERO 2008, DOC Rosso Conero (Marche, Italy); #981191; Price: $14.95; 13.2% ABV

100% Montepulciano.  Handpicked.  Maceration and fermentation for 10 days in stainless steel tanks, followed by Malolactic fermentation. Aged 50% in large oak casks and 50% in neutral oak barrels for 12 months, followed by 6 months in bottle before release.  Ideal with pasta with Puttanesca sauce.  Best value in the release.

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Venting My Spleen

Last month, I wrote about To Cork or Not to Cork, an interesting book about the advantages and disadvantages of using cork to seal wine bottles. 

Because of poor quality control, cork went through a bad patch in the mid-to-late 1980s, damaging the reputations of several wineries, not least in my own mind.  Although the problem of cork taint may have diminished from what is was the 1980s, it still plagues the wine industry.

One of the great challenges to quality control is that cork taint is not necessarily pervasive in a single batch of corks or in the corks used in a single case of the same wine. 

Little did I know that I would experience that variation in cork taint so soon.  Two weeks ago, I opened a bottle of Chateau Chasse-Spleen 1989, AC Moulis en Médoc (Bordeaux) that we had brought back from France many years ago.  (It still had the FFr 97,00 – about 20 bucks – sticker on it.)  In fact, we had brought back a few bottles simply because we like the name so much…and because it’s one of the most reliable producers in Médoc.

That bottle of wine was corked.  Not as bad as some, but worse that many others, say 7 on the blech scale of 1 to 10.  Bad enough to impair any good aromas.

After that one, we still had one bottle left and, expecting the worse and wanting to get it over with, I opened that one last week.

Pleasant surprise.  This bottle, bought at the same time in the same store, was delicious, without a sign of cork taint.  It still had a wonderfully complex bouquet and, although the cassis, black cherry, and plum aromas had faded, it brought forth notes of cedar, mushroom, pine, and hazelnut.

So, the lesson is that just because one bottle in a case is corked, not all bottles may be corked.  But what consumer wants to endure this experience with any bottle of wine?  What a quality control nightmare!    

On a related note, Chateau Margaux (one of the First Growth wines of Médoc) is experimenting with screwcaps for its second wine, Pavillon Rouge.  Decanter quotes Chateau Margaux’s winemaker as saying, “We’ve all been disappointed and frustrated by corked bottles. Another closure would be welcome if it is better.”  Decanter reported that, at a recent tasting organized by Chateau Margaux, a 2003 Margaux red wine sealed with an impermeable screwcap closure was preferred to the same wine sealed with a cork or a permeable screwcap, consistent with tests at the estate.  On the subject of using screwcaps, the Margaux winemaker said, “If we have consistent proof that it works better, I don’t see how we could resist.”

When the ultra-traditionalists in Bordeaux begin to turn their backs on cork in favour of screwcaps, can the well-deserved end of corks be far away?

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Feeling PECish ─ Part 4

(Read Part 1 here)

(Read Part 2 here)

(Read Part 3 here)

The Wineries of Marysburgh/Athol  

This newer area is south of Picton.  The winemakers here all sing from the same song-sheet:  they are absolutely convinced that the next 10-20 years will show that this area is better suited for vineyards than is Hillier.  (Every winery expressed this opinion, accompanied by a small, smug smile, without me having asked the question.)  And based on our tastings, they’re right.  The people were knowledgeable and friendly.  But yikes, the wines are expensive!

Long Dog:  We tried both the 2007 and 2008 Bella Riserva Chardonnay.  An interesting contrast in styles:  2007 showed more rich tropical aromas and flavours while the 2008 offered citrus-y flavours with crisp acidity.  It all comes down to personal preference and we brought home the 2008 ($30).  Long Dog also makes Pinot Noir.  The 2008 Top Dog ($36) is fruit forward with aromas and flavours of red cherry and raspberry and a bit of sweet spice.  Light-bodied with fresh acidity.  The 2007 Otto Riserva Pinot Noir ($50) is a better and more complex effort but, to be blunt, not worth $50, so we brought home the Top Dog.  Long Dog also makes a couple of Pinot Gris. 

Exultet:  Very small production and oh so expensive.  The 2009 Chardonnay ($50) has pear, butterscotch, and spicy nutmeg on the nose.  Aged in half French and half in Hungarian oak.  Medium acidity.  No question, it’s delicious.  I broke down and bought a bottle.  I passed on the 2009 Pinot Noir at $50.

Lighthall:  Another small producer.  The 2009 Chardonnay Reserve ($25) had citrus and peach aromas and flavours.  Crisp acidity with minerality.  Bought it.  We tasted the 2010 Chardonnay Reserve from the tank.  It has a similar profile to the 2009 but better balanced, soft and smooth in the mid-palate but refreshing acidity at the end.  The 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve ($25) was quite earthy, with sour red fruit on the palate.  Light-bodied.  The 2009 Pinot Noir Particulaire ($50) is more New World in style, bigger, riper red cherry aromas and flavours and a more balanced structure with medium acidity and a hint of tannin.

Cheese Producers

Waupoos:  We rode our bicycles out to Fifth Town Cheese, which is towards the east end of the County.  On the way back, we stopped at Waupoos for lunch.  As with the Grange, it’s a beautiful setting and touristy.  Although it’s one of the oldest PEC wineries, it had not a single VQA PEC wine.  Shame.

Marysburgh wineries worth a visit:  Long Dog, Exultet, Lighthall

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Feeling PECish ─ Part 3

(Read Part 1 here)

(Read Part 2 here)

The Wineries of Hillier 

Many of the “older” wineries in Prince Edward County are located in the western end of the County, north and west of Wellington, around Hillier and Rosehall.  The wineries have modern tasting rooms with mostly knowledgeable, but often jaded, staff.

Norman Hardie:  One of the best-known wineries, it produces just a couple of VQA PEC wines.  Both the County Pinot Noir 2009 ($35) and the Cabernet Franc 2009 ($25) show tart red fruit and high acidity.  The Cab Franc was very herbaceous.  Nothing purchased.

The Old Third:  They only make Pinot Noir here but that focus is rewarded.  We bought the 2009 ($35), which offers cherry aromas with a touch of floral.  Interesting minerality on the palate.  Contrasts nicely with other County Pinot Noir with its medium acidity.

Closson Chase:  This is probably the best-known PEC winery and one of the first.  Upscale tasting room in an old barn but the tasting staff is unfriendly with a haughty attitude, which is always a turnoff.  You’re in PEC, folks, not Bordeaux…lose the attitude.  The good news is that Closson Chase offered 2 Chardonnays (their specialty) and a Pinot Noir from the County.  The CCV Chardonnay 2009 ($25) showed red apple and peach on the palate with refreshing acidity that transitions to a buttery finish.  The 2009 South Clos Chardonnay ($40) had red apple and lemon flavours, softer acidity with that same butter finish.  The 2009 Pinot Noir ($40) reminded me of an Oregon-style Pinot Noir, featuring bright red cherry on the palate.  It’s high in acidity, somewhat bitter and green, suggesting some under ripe fruit.  The best value was the CCV Chardonnay, but I couldn’t get past the attitude and left empty-handed.

Rosehall Run:  Here’s a winery that focuses on VQA PEC wines and keeps the prices down.  So it can be done!  We tried several wines but, somewhat bizarrely, they had recently painted the tasting room and the fumes made wine appreciation a test.  There were 2 people working in the tasting room, a friendly and knowledgeable guy and a woman who was auditioning for a job at Closson Chase.  We started with – and bought – the 2008 Cuvée County Chardonnay ($30), which showed citrus and white peach on the palate, with vanilla on the finish.  Of the reds that we tried (Gamay, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir), we liked the 2008 Cuvée County Pinot Noir ($20) with its red fruit, floral note, and medium acidity.  Definitely one of my favourites for a return visit.

Huff Estates:  Huff has the most strikingly modern tasting room in PEC.  The 2008 South Bay Chardonnay ($30) offers more on the nose than it delivers in taste:  rich citrus, peach, and pear aromas but thin flavours with too sharp acidity on the back palate.  The 2010 Pinot Gris ($20) was a revelation with citrus and white flower aromas, lemon-lime flavours, and fresh acidity and minerality.  Maybe it was after tasting so much Chardonnay (yawn) but with this wine, I began to think that PEC wineries should focus their attention on Pinot Gris.  We bought a bottle of this wine to bring home but drank it at the B&B that night!  The 2009 Pinot Noir ($25) showed sour red cherry on the nose but was thin and acidic on the palate.

The Grange of Prince Edward:  A winery that’s in a beautiful setting and it’s obviously popular with tourists.  Too bad that the staff lacks knowledge about the product.  The wines that we tasted were uniformly disappointing and, at least in the ones that we tasted, the wines were already so far over the hill that they shouldn’t still be on the shelves.

Hillier wineries worth a visit:  The Old Third, Rosehall Run, Huff Estates – for the Pinot Gris – and (next time for me) Hinterland.


Next up...the wines of Marysburgh.


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Feeling PECish ─ Part 2

(Read Part 1 here)

PEC wineries devote their efforts primarily to two varieties:  the notoriously difficult Pinot Noir and the wine world’s workhorse, Chardonnay.  Some of the Pinot Noirs that I tasted in PEC (especially around Hillier) were thin, tart, overly acidic, and occasionally under-ripe, all of which are risks in a cool climate.  The weather in 2010 was warmer, allowing for fuller ripening, and the expectations for that vintage (not yet available) are high.  Who knows, perhaps global warming will be a boon to PEC.    

As for the Chardonnays, they often saw too much new oak, although that’s more of a personal preference than a flaw. 

We tasted some good Pinot Gris and, based on those samples, the region shows great promise for that grape variety.  More PEC vintners should try it.  But everybody buys Chardonnay…

Another winery – Hinterland – devotes all its efforts to sparkling wines and I think that they’re on to something.  With PEC’s cool climate and limestone foundation, the region may be ideal for sparkling wine.  And most vintners are already growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, 2 of the 3 varieties that also can go into making Champagne, where tart and acidic wine is a boon.

I only have eyes for ewe

Compared to the slicker Niagara region, PEC has a bucolic charm.  Translation:  they roll up the sidewalks at night (and don't necessarily unroll them in the morning) and cell service is very spotty.  The region seems torn between wanting tourism dollars but not the tourists who come with it.  There are relatively few hotels, so a last-minute getaway in the summer is nearly impossible.  

Hot Diggity!

Ommm

Although the selection of restaurants is good, many are closed more than one night a week in high season. Restaurants are well spread out among the many little towns, making walking to them impossible; a designated driver is a necessity.  We had dinner at Angeline’s in Bloomfield and Blumen Bistro in Picton.  Both are good but we give the edge to Blumen for its good food, moderate prices, great service, and ambience.  And getting down for lunch at Buddha Dog in Picton, with its locally sourced products, is good fun but it’s very small and busy. 

Sweet Cheeses!

It’s out of the way but if you love excellent cheese made from goat, sheep, or cows’ milk, make the time to visit Fifth Town Artisan Cheese, which is at the east end of the County.  Great selection!       

We visited 10 wineries over 2 days.  You can find the better wineries concentrated in 2 districts.  In my next 2 posts, I’ll give you my impression of the wineries around Hiller and Marysburgh.

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Feeling PECish ─ Part 1

What to make of Prince Edward County?

As wine regions go, it’s a toddler.  Almost all wineries in Prince Edward County (known as PEC or the County) have been producing wine for about a decade or less.  In winemaking, understanding terroir, discovering what works and what doesn’t, is measured in generations, not years.  A decade is just a blink of an eye.  

The newness shows in the quantities produced as well, as the entire region produces significantly less than many individual Niagara vintners.      

So, it’s probably unfair to evaluate PEC’s wines in comparison to many others.  It would be fairer to measure where PEC is in 2012 to where the Niagara region was in 1985.  Fairer…but impossible.

Back in late August, Michèle and I went on our first trip to PEC with a couple of friends, Steve and Carolyn.  We visited 10 wineries, focussing on those that make wines that are designated VQA Prince Edward County.  That designation means that at least 85% of the grapes used to make the wine have to come from Prince Edward County.      

I don’t envy the economic realities faced by PEC vintners.  Producing wine takes a lot of money, not only the up front capital costs (think millions of dollars) but the yearly operating costs are daunting.  In the early years, as you’re feeling your way, production is small, which means your return on investment is small…even negative.       

Be warned:  just because you buy a wine from a PEC winery doesn’t mean you’re buying wine from Prince Edward County (or from grapes grown in Prince Edward County).  In PEC, the need for positive cashflow leads many winemakers to supplement local grapes by bringing in Niagara grapes to make wines that qualify as “VQA Ontario”.    

I view this practice as, at best, a short-term evil that may be necessary to survive the tough early years.  It’s somewhat akin to the practice of “Cellared in Canada”, where Canadian wineries import cheap grape juice from outside Canada, make wine, and stick their label on it.  (Importing grapes or grapejuice from another region or country is barely a step up from me making wine in my basement.)  It’s a way to turn a profit, and stay in business, while the local production matures.  But just as I think that the practice of “Cellared in Canada” should disappear within 10-15 years at the very latest, I would expect PEC wineries eventually to cease using grapes from Niagara.  The toddler has to grow up.

Making wine from “imported” grapes is one way to generate cashflow.  Another way is to charge a lot of money for the VQA PEC wines that you do make.  It’s unusual to find a VQA PEC wine for less than $30 (Rosehall Run is a notable exception) and many wines will run you a lot more than that.  Are they worth it?  Unfortunately, my answer is no.  The quality just isn’t there yet to justify paying $40, $50, $60 for a bottle of VQA PEC wine. 

But I did anyway.  Why?  Curiosity to see how these wines will mature and work with food.  And an altruistic, patriotic desire to support wineries in a new and struggling region close to home.

More on PEC in Part 2 here....

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ February 18 2012

As soon as I saw this week’s theme at Vintages, I knew it would be tough sledding.  Entitled “Popular Front”, it features “22 customer favourites”.  Finding wines that are "popular" are not what we’re about here.  (Why customer favourites need this type of marketing boost escapes me.  And that term – Popular Front – brings all sorts of political echoes.)  Despite that, 2 of My Picks are among the 22 customer favourites.  The mainstream is wide and I do dip my toes in there from time to time!

The secondary theme – Tasting Terroir – holds more promise.  In 3 instances, Vintages brings us wines from the same producer growing the same grape variety – Chardonnay, Riesling, or Pinot Noir – in different places.  The attempt is to show how terroir can yield different results.  By far the most interesting comparison is among the 3 Chardonnays from Bachelder, who has properties in Niagara, Oregon, and Burgundy.  It’s an interesting concept and I hope that Vintages does this more often!  (The other comparisons are less compelling, but it’s a good start.)

Nothing organic this week.

       

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

TABALI RESERVA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011, Limari Valley (Chile); #662999; Price: $14.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc from way up north in the hot Limari Valley, but on the cool Pacific coast.  Handpicked.  Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks.  Great, refreshing acidity.  Drink now…ideal as an aperitif.

MURI-GRIES PINOT GRIGIO 2010, DOC Alto Adige (Italy); #270983; Price: $18.95; 13.2% ABV

100% Pinot Grigio.  Fermented in stainless steel.  Aged 75% in stainless steel and 25% in large oak barrels for 5 months.  Drink young with pasta in Alfredo sauce.

VARANDA DO CONDE ALVARINHO/TRAJADURA 2010, DOC Vinho Verde (Portugal); #966663; Price: $13.95; 12.0% ABV

A blend of Alvarinho (70%) and Trajadura (30%), a couple of native grape varieties.  They say that they press each grape separately!  Fermented for 10 days.  No oak.  Always drink young, either as an apero or with seafood.

Here are those 3 Chardonnays that I mentioned at the top.  Hey, I never said education was cheap!

BACHELDER CHARDONNAY 2009, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #271841; Price: $34.95; 13.0% ABV

BACHELDER CHARDONNAY 2009, Willamette Valley (Oregon); #273334; Price: $34.95; 13.0% ABV

BACHELDER CHARDONNAY 2009, AC Burgundy (France); #272005; Price: $34.95; 13.3% ABV

Reds

CREEKSIDE LAURA'S RED 2007, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #117960; Price: $19.95; 12.7% ABV

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (39.5%), Merlot (39%), Cabernet Franc (15%), Malbec (6%) and – why bother – Petit Verdot (0.5%). Fermented separately on the skins in stainless steel tanks. Aged mostly in French oak barrels (56% new) for 22 months, then blended.  Drink by 2013.  Lamb ragout is a good match.

CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH CHIMÈRES 2009, AC Cotes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #119354; Price: $18.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Grenache (60%), Syrah (30%), and Carignan (10%) from the sunny Roussillon.  Hand harvested.  Fermentation with maceration for 4 weeks.  A big winter wine.  Very good vintage that you can keep for a few years.

SANTA DUC LES GARANCIÈRES 2009, AC Gigondas (Southern Rhone, France); #234989; Price: $27.95; 15.4% ABV

A blend of Grenache (80%), Syrah (10%), and Mourvèdre (10%).  Hand-harvested.  Long maceration.  Aged 50% in neutral oak vats and 50% in tanks on its lees.  Beware:  high alcohol.  Needs a hearty braised meat dish as a match.

MASI BROLO DI CAMPOFIORIN 2007, IGT Rosso del Veronese (Veneto, Italy); #976092; Price: $24.95; 13.5% ABV

A typical Veneto blend of Corvina (70%), Rondinella (25%), Molinara (5%). Fermented twice: once with fresh grapes, fermented again for 15 days with another 25% of grapes of the same varieties that are dried for six weeks (similar to Amarone), then Malolactic fermentation. Aged 18 months:  2/3 in very large Slovenian oak barrels and 1/3 in new, smaller Allier and Slovenian oak barrels, followed by 3 months aging in the bottle before release.  Ideal with pasta with a meat and mushroom sauce.  Capable of aging until 2017.

LUA NOVA EM VINHAS VELHAS 2009, DOC Douro (Portugal); #266882; Price: $15.95; 14.5% ABV

Vinhas Velhas means the grapes are a field blend of indigenous varieties from old vines.  In other words, they don’t know (or care) what grapes are in here.  It’s what they have, take it or leave it.   Take it.  Half vinified in stainless steel vats with temperature control (modern) and half foot-trodden and vinified in traditional old granite lagars (troughs).

BUDUREASCA ORIGINI FETEASCA NEAGRA 2007, DOC-CMD Dealu Mare (Romania); #263913; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Feteasca Neagra, an indigenous variety that translate as “young girl’s grape”.  Fermented on the skins for 15 days, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged for 6 months in oak barrels.  Known for its spicy character.  Best value in the release.  Drink now.

BODEGAS LAN CRIANZA 2007, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #166538; Price: $15.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Tempranillo.  Fermented in stainless steel with maceration for 15 days, followed by 12 months aging in French and American oak, then a few more months in the bottle.  A classic easy-drinking Riojan red that’s ready to drink now.  Works with a very wide variety of dishes with meat, mushroom, or cheese.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ February 4 2012

It’s another boatload of California Cabernet featured in this week’s release at Vintages.  Yawn.

Fortunately, the secondary theme features the wines of Greece.  Just a couple of years ago, I knew nothing about Greek wine (except for Retsina) but it’s a region that’s worth discovering.  Like Italy, it’s chock full of little-known native grape varieties that offer something new and interesting for your palate.  There’s been significant Euro-investment in the Greek wine industry in the past decade, resulting in a leap forward in quality.  Whether the Greeks can sustain that quality through the debt crisis will be worth watching.  Just in case things go south for a long time, seize this opportunity to taste some good wines now.  I found 2 whites and 2 reds for My Picks.  Definitely pick up the deliciously crisp Sigalas Assyrtiko, which I tasted at its Santorini winery.

Nothing organic this week.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

GRAN LURTON CORTE FRIULANO 2010, (Uco Valley, Argentina); #66829; Price: $19.95; 13.0% ABV

A blend of Friulano (70%) with Pinot Gris and ─sigh─ Chardonnay.  Friulano is native to Friuli in northeast Italy and, like other Italian varieties, is known by other names:  Tocai and Sauvignonasse.  Fermented partly in stainless steel and partly in oak.  Aged in oak for 6 months.  We don’t see Friulano often here in Ontario, which is a shame, as I love its floral aroma and that almond note on the aftertaste.  But expect the Pinot Gris and Chardonnay characteristics to be evident as well.  Friulano came to Argentina with one of the waves of immigration from Italy.

DOMAINE FOUASSIER LES GRANDS GROUX 2009, AC Sancerre (France); #267948; Price: $24.95; 13.8% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Fermented with native yeast. They use Biodynamic (work in the cellar is based on lunar calendar) and organic methods but are not certified.  Drink now with pan-fried scallops.

SIGALAS ASSYRTIKO 2010, AOQS Santorini (Greece); #74781; Price: $21.95; 14.4% ABV

100% Assyrtiko.  Fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks.  I tasted this wine at the Santorini winery back in September.  Pale yellow with a delicate citrus and floral nose.  Lemon-lime with a hint of white peach on the palate.  The minerality comes through on the back palate.  Fresh acidity; it makes a great match for grilled seafood or chicken.  Drink now but capable of aging for 10 years.

Ah...Santorini!

TSELEPOS MOSCHOFILERO 2010, PDO Mantinia (Greece); #724583; Price: $16.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Moschofilero, a pink-skinned variety that thrives in Mantinia.   
Skin contact for 8 hours, followed by fermentation and aging in stainless steel.  Look for floral aromas and a spicy note on the taste, a bit like Gewürztraminer.  Drink now.  Shrimp stir-fry, anyone?

Reds

DECERO REMOLINOS VINEYARD MALBEC 2008, (Mendoza, Argentina); #247304; Price: $22.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Malbec.  Handpicked.  Gravity fed into stainless steel tanks for cold maceration (5 days), fermentation (10 days), and further maceration (15 days).  Malolactic fermentation and then aging in French oak barrels (30% new) for 14 months.  Remolinos Vineyard takes its name from ‘Remolinos’ – whirlwinds that keep the grapes dry.  You can put this one down in the cellar for a few years.

MURATIE SHIRAZ 2007, WO Stellenbosch (South Africa); #663278; Price: $24.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Shiraz from 3 dry-farmed (no irrigation) vineyards.    Handpicked.  Fermented in open tanks.  Aged in 90% French oak and 10% American oak barrels.  Ideal with braised lamb shanks.  Ready to drink now.

M. CHAPOUTIER PETITE RUCHE 2009, AC Crozes-Hermitage (Northern Rhone, France); #264655; Price: $23.10; 13.0% ABV

100% Syrah from one of my favourite producers from one of my favourite regions!  Fermented in cement vats, followed by 2 weeks of maceration, then aged in those vats.  No oak.  Fresh and fruit forward.   Drink now with roast chicken.  Very good vintage.

KIR-YIANNI RAMNISTA XINOMAVRO 2008, PDO Naoussa (Greece); #178020; Price: $18.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Xinomavro (literally, acid black).  Handpicked.  Cold maceration for 4 days.  Fermentation for 12 days; 1/3 in open-top tanks.  Malolactic fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  Aged 60% in both French and American oak barrels (15% new) and 40% in 500-litre casks.  Lightly fined and filtered.  Match it to lamb or game (elk, bison).

TSANTALI RESERVE RAPSANI 2007; PDO Rapsani (Greece); #734855; Price: $15.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Xinomavro (1/3), Krassato (1/3), and Stavroto (1/3) from the slopes of Mount Olympus.  Handpicked.  They co-ferment the 3 varieties for 8 days in small open-top cement tanks. Following Malolactic fermentation, aged in French oak barrels for 12 months and another 12 months in bottle.  Definitely a winter wine made for braised meats.  Great value.

LEONE DE CASTRIS RISERVA 2007, DOC Salice Salentino (Puglia, Italy); #597534; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of 90% Negroamaro (literally, black bitter) and 10% Malvasia Nera.  Handpicked.  Maceration and fermentation for 8 days.  Aged in large oak barrels for 12 months. With additional aging in the bottle to qualify for “Riserva” status.  Big wine that can handle a roast beast.

AMANTIS SANGIOVESE MONTECUCCO 2006; AC Montecucco (Tuscany, Italy); #234930; Price: $29.95; 14.3% ABV

A blend of Sangiovese (90%) with Colorino and Canaiolo.  Extended maceration with fermentation and aging in 50-hectolitre oak vats, with 10 months in the bottle.  Montecucco is a relatively new DOC, south of Montalcino.  Looks good, but where’s this wine been?  Try it with Veal Parmigiana.

MAETIERRA DOMINUM QUATRO PAGOS 2005, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #246660; Price: $19.95; 14.6% ABV

A bit of everything here.  A blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and Grenache from old vines from vineyards in 4 districts.  Aged 15 months in new French oak casks made by different cooperages and with oak from forests of different origins, followed by prolonged aging in the bottle.  Done in the modern style but worth trying with Steak Frites.

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