Atelier

Michèle and I go out to dinner for different reasons at different times.  Sometimes we want comfort food.  Sometimes it's a place that’s quiet enough to carry on a conversation with friends.  Maybe we want something from a remote part of the world.  Or we want to experience the craft of a chef at the top of his game.  But the number one reason that we go out to dinner is to enjoy something that we know we could not do at home, something that no one else in town is doing, something that makes us say, “Wow, how do they do that?!”

In Ottawa, there are many places for comfort food.  We’re also blessed with many restaurants that offer food from every corner of the globe.  And the last 15 years have seen many very talented chefs develop their skills here.

But there’s one place in Ottawa that, right now, challenges, mystifies, thrills, and satisfies us more than any other:  Atelier.

Atelier offers only one choice:  a blind 12-course small plate menu.  Each course is a surprise; they disclose and explain the dish only as it arrives.  (They do ask beforehand if you have any allergies or dislikes.  A skinny woman at a nearby table inexplicably asked for no carbohydrates!  And no citrus because she was doing the colon cancer check.  Oh gawd, just stay home.)

This week marked our second trip to Atelier.  We first went soon after it opened late in 2008.  I won’t go into the “cooking” techniques used at Atelier, mainly because they’re so nontraditional that I’m sure that even if I tried to explain them, I’d come up way short.  But that’s the point.  We can’t do this at home.  It’s creative, it’s challenging, it’s amusing, and it’s superbly delicious.  We’re not alone in our opinion.  Atelier’s chef, Marc Lepine, won the Canadian Culinary Championship earlier this year.  The winning dish is on the menu.

What completes a wonder-ful experience is the matching wine pairing, a bargain at $60.  Much care obviously goes into selecting wines to match the dishes.  Kudos to the sommelier, Steve Robinson, who was in my sommelier class at Algonquin.  He’ll indulge your wine nerdiness if you want that, but he won’t bore you with details if you don’t.

Atelier is not inexpensive.  But compared to some other places in town and for the experience, we think it’s a bargain.  Save up if you have to.   But go.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ April 28 2012

For a variety of reasons, the stars (or wines) didn’t all line up for My Picks so it’s a slightly slimmer selection (just 10) this week.

The main theme is “Veneto”, a region that I like and that too many consumers overlook, or just think Amarone.  The pick of the theme is a Valpolicella Classico, which is an ideal wine for springtime drinking and comes at a great price.

The secondary theme is “New Zealand Whites” and a biodynamic Sauvignon Blanc is first up.

Biodynamic

SERESIN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Marlborough (New Zealand); #735043; Price: $21.95; 14.0 ABV

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (94%) and Semillon (6%).  Handpicked from 3 different vineyards, each fermented separately using wild yeast; the Semillon and 10% of the Sauvignon Blanc fermented in aged French barriques, then blended.  Certified organic with BioGro New Zealand; biodynamically certified by Demeter.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

DUCKHORN SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Napa Valley (California); #94375; Price: $28.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (75%) and Sémillon (25%).  Fermented for 21 days, 15% in new oak.  Aged 5 months on its lees in French oak barrels.  Drink this year.

FINCA EL ORIGEN RESERVA TORRONTÉS 2010, Cafayate Valley (Salta, Argentina); #262089; Price: $14.95; 14% ABV

100% Torrontés Riojano.  Fermented for 21 days.  A great aperitif.

Reds

SUSANA BALBO SIGNATURE MALBEC 2009, Mendoza (Argentina); #79798; Price: $21.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Malbec (95%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (5%).  Hand harvested.  Fermented using selected yeasts with 30-days maceration, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged 13 months in French oak (80% first-use, 20% second-use).

CHÂTEAU SIGNAC CUVÉE TRADITION CHUSCLAN 2009, AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages (France); #252288; Price: $16.95; 14.4% ABV

A blend of Syrah (45%), Carignan (30%), and Grenache (25%).  Hand harvested.  Fermented in cement vats with local yeasts for 12 days.  Aged 12 months in tanks.  No oak!  Fire up the grill and throw on some meat.

TELIANI VALLEY 2006, Mukuzani (Georgia); #181271; Price: $16.95

100% Saperavi, a variety that’s common to most of the former USSR.  Known for its acidity and ability for long aging.  So the 2006 vintage should be right on time!  Aged in oak barrels for 12 months.  The vintner recommends grilled veal or ham.

MONTE DEL FRÁ TENUTA LENA DI MEZZO 2008, DOC Valpolicella Classico Superiore (Veneto, Italy); #272500; Price: $15.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Corvina (80%) and Corvinone (20%).  Fermentation in stainless steel vats, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged in French oak casks for 12 months.  An extremely versatile wine for food matching; a slow roasted chicken on the grill seems ideal.  Capable of aging but great now.  Best value in the release.

QUINTA DO ATAIDE ALTANO RESERVA 2008, DOC Douro (Portugal); #273573; Price: $28.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Touriga Nacional, the signature grape of Douro if not all Portugal.  Hand harvested.  Fermented in stainless steel vats with prolonged maceration.  Aged 10 months in French oak barrels.  A wine to put away for a winter stew.

BORSAO TRES PICOS GARNACHA 2009, DO Campo de Borja (Spain); #273748; Price: $19.95

100% Garnacha.  Fermented in stainless steel tanks.  Maceration for 21 days.  BBQ ribs!

Sparkling

NINO FRANCO RUSTICO NV, DOCG VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE (Veneto, Italy); #277574; Price: $17.95

100% Glera (aka Prosecco).  Fermented in steel tanks. Second fermentation using the Charmat (closed tank) method.  Drink now.

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My Picks: Vintages Release ─ April 14 2012

Curse you, Vintages!  This week’s theme is about the wines of Argentina, entitled Heat of the Moment.  In my head, this triggered the 1982 song by Asia, which has been running through my mind incessantly since the Vintages release landed in my mailbox.

It will come as no surprise to regular readers that, of the 15 wines from Argentina in this release, only 2 made it onto My Picks.  I don't try to be contrarian.  And I’m a fan of Argentinean wines, as the 3 picks from the previous release will attest.  I’m beginning to think that the most interesting wines don’t always make it to a themed release.

Of particular note are 2 Semillon varietal wines from Australia.  I love Australian Semillon and they don’t show up that often.  And now 2 in the same release!

This release also offers 4 Italians that offer great value, 2 of which are organic or biodynamic.

The secondary theme is “Green Revelation”, featuring “eco-friendly” wines.  I’m sceptical of that “eco-friendly” label.  The 2 wines listed below have both earned an independent certification.

Enjoy!

Organic and Biodynamic

LA CAPPUCCINA 2011, DOC Soave (Veneto, Italy); #81489; Price: $13.95; 12.0% ABV

100% Garganega, indigenous to the Veneto region.  Cold maceration on the skins to give it a bit of colour.  Fermented and aged on its lees for 5 months in stainless steel tanks.  Crisp and clean, look for minerality with a slightly bitter finish, which I love.  Great as an aperitif or with white fish.  Drink now.  Organic certification by BIOS, a Veneto-based Certification Institute. 

L'ANTICO DI BURCHINO VIGNA CASANOVA CHIANTI 2010, DOCG Chianti (Tuscany); #160457; Price: $13.95; 12.5% ABV

A blend of Sangiovese (70%), Ciliegiolo (20%), and 10% Canaiolo…Ciliegiolo is a lesser-known grape variety, used to smooth out the Sangiovese.  Certified biodynamic by Demeter.  The estate is located near Pisa, so I’m inclined to try this one.  Drink now with pasta in a tomato-based suace.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

CRIOS TORRONTÉS 2011, Calchaquies Valley (Argentina); #1834; Price: $12.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Torrontés, the signature white grape of Argentina, from way up north in the Salta foothills.  Hand harvested.  Fermented with cultured yeasts.  Left on its lees for 3 months.  Look for refreshing acidity and wonderful floral aromatics.  Drink now.

Two Aussie Semillons, both light-bodied with good acidity: 

ST. HALLETT SEMILLON 2006, Barossa (Australia); #658005; Price: $19.95; 11.5% ABV

100% Semillon.  25% fermented in tank, 75% barrel-fermented (a mix of first, second and third use barrels).  Two-thirds aged on its lees for 10 months.  This one should improve through to 2016.

TYRRELL'S BROOKDALE SEMILLON 2011, Hunter Valley (Australia); #269316; Price: $19.95; 12.0% ABV

100% Semillon from the Hunter Valley, north of Sydney, where Semillon thrives.  And it’s from Tyrrell, one of the best producers.  Cool fermentation and minimal aging.  No oak.  Look for fresh, clean citrus flavours.  Hunter Valley Semillon rewards patience, so although it’s great now, put this away for at least 5 years.  Ideal with barramundi!

DOMAINE CHAUVEAU LA CHARMETTE POUILLY FUMÉ 2010, AC Pouilly-Fumé (Loire, France); #274357; Price: $21.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Cool fermentation, followed by aging on its lees for 6 months.  Look for citrus and floral aromas with great minerality.  The classic matches are shellfish and grilled white fish.

Reds

CAVE SPRING MERLOT 2008, VQA Niagara Escarpment; #235051; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Merlot (85%), Cabernet Sauvignon (12%), and Cabernet Franc (3%).  14-day fermentation on the skins.  Aged for 18 months in a mix of Hungarian, American and French oak barriques (20% new).   Merlot is perhaps the most versatile red grape variety for matching with meats…beef, chicken, game…no matter how prepared.  Drink within a couple of years.

CARINAE RESERVA MALBEC 2009, Mendoza (Argentina); #261735; Price: $15.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Malbec from 2 sub-regions in Mendoza.  Warm fermentation with a maceration of 4 weeks. Aged 12 months in French barrels.  A pair of transplanted French run the winery.  Can be aged until 2018.

GRANT BURGE THE HOLY TRINITY GRENACHE/SHIRAZ/MOURVÈDRE 2008, Barossa (Australia); #236257; Price: $33.95; 14.5% ABV

A southern Rhone blend of old-vine Grenache (44%), Shiraz (40%), and Mourvèdre (16%).  Cool fermentation on its skins for 7 days.  After fermentation, partially kept on the skins for extended maceration. Aged for 12 months on oak.  More of a winter wine, I’d try it with slow-cooked game.  Drink by 2016.

JORIO 2009, DOC Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (Italy); #134577; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Montepulciano.  Hand harvested.  Fermented on its skins for 10 days in steel vats, followed by Malolactic fermentation. Aged 50% in 5000-litre oak barrels, 50% in smaller neutral oak barriques for 12 months.  Another great value from Italy!

MONTE DEL FRÁ BARDOLINO 2010, DOC Bardolino (Veneto, Italy); #134544; Price: $12.95; 13.0% ABV

A blend of Corvina (65%), Rondinella (40%), and – unusually for Veneto – Sangiovese (5%).  Cold maceration followed by long fermentation on its skins in stainless steel tanks.  Light-bodied (by modern standards), it’s an ideal summer wine that matches well with grilled chicken or pizza.  Drink now.

RIOJA BORDÓN GRAN RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #114454; Price: $22.95; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo (aka Carignan) and Graciano.  Fermented on the grape skins for 10 days, then left to macerate for another 7 days.  Aged in American oak casks for 24 months with additional bottle aging for 48 months before release.  A classic Riojan Gran Reserva with black cherry backed up with smoky leather and earthy aroams!  Ready to drink now and over the next 5 years.  Ideal with herb-infused grilled lamb.

Extra!  Extra!

SAGET LA PERRIÈRE MARIE DE BEAUREGARD VOUVRAY 2009, AC Vouvray (Loire, France); #276691; Price: $17.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Chenin Blanc from Vouvray.

BODEGAS CAMPILLO FERMENTADO EN BARRICA BLANCO 2010, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #657478; Price: $16.95; 12.5% ABV

A barrel-fermented white (mostly Viura) from Rioja.

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Here Come the Judge! Here Come the Judge!

As I wrote recently, achieving a brilliant match between wine and food is the ne plus ultra for any sommelier, new or experienced.  So it's no surprise that, of the courses in the Sommelier Program at Algonquin College, the Wine and Food Matching course is the one that many students look forward to the most.

For the final exam, teams of students prepare a food dish and match it with the wine that they think works best. Coming up with a dazzling match at the end of a structured course allows students to put everything that they have learned to the test…literally. The teams submit a paper that describes why they chose the food dish, how they chose the matching wine, and why they think this match is the best.  The expectation is that, to reach a final decision, they will have tested several wines (along with the food) with cooperative friends and relations before making their choice.

The final exam isn’t just a paper exercise.  The teams must prepare the food dish, either at home beforehand or in the kitchen at Algonquin's Restaurant International, and serve it with their chosen wine for judging by recognized experts...like me.

I have fond memories of my project when I did this course.  (Getting a perfect score on the paper...ahem...contributes to that fond memory.)  I also remember how much work our team put into the project and how important the judges' opinion was to us.  So when the course instructor – Liam Doody – contacted me about being a judge, I jumped at the chance. 10 examples of good food matched systematically with interesting wines? What's not to like?

My judging partner would be fellow sommelier, fellow valedictorian, and fellow blogger, Bethany Harpur, who hangs out at 2^nd Ferment.

After tasting each dish with its matching wine, we awarded "medals" based on the following criteria:

• Gold:  The wine and food pairing adds to the enjoyment of the wine AND the cuisine.

• Silver:  The wine and food pairing adds to either the enjoyment of the wine OR the cuisine, but not both.

• Bronze:  The wine and food pairing does not add to, nor detract from, the enjoyment of either the wine or the cuisine.

• No Certificate:  The wine and food pairing detracts from either, or both, the enjoyment of the wine or the cuisine.

This criteria allows for considerable latitude and subjectivity.  But as Liam teaches all his students, wine and food matching is subjective.  In his classes, where a food dish is matched to 4 different wines, students use an anonymous voting system to decide which of the 4 wines is the best match. The highest level of consensus ever on any wine and food match?  60%! Our judgments were just as subjective.  Bethany and I didn't agree on the merits of every match.  But that's not surprising; that's just the way it is.

Here are the great food and wine matches that we got to sample and upon which we rendered our verdicts.  Kudos to all the teams!

Food:  Hair of the Dog Breakfast

Wine:  Jip Jip Rocks Sparkling Shiraz (Australia) NV

The ultimate hangover medicine...a clever and very daring match!

 Food:  Hawaiian Tsunami Roll

Wine:  Chateau St Jean Pinot Noir (Sonoma County, California) 2008

Great sushi, delicious wine, made me Pacific

 Food:  Raw Food Kalamata Olive Ravioli

Wine:  Vineland Estates Sauvignon Blanc VQA Niagara 2009

Herb, meet Herb...I like it

Food:  Turnip Potato Maple Soup

Wine:  Markus Molitor Haus Klosterberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel) 2007

New World Sweet meets Old World Sweet...delicious

Food:  Caramelized Onion Bacon Tart 

Wine:  Perrin et Fils Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages Rasteau (S. Rhone) 2009

Food that needs fruit and soft tannins meets its match.  Quelle surprise.

Food:  Macaroni and Cheese

Wine:  Helfrich Pinot Gris (Alsace) 2010

Sweet Cheeses, that's comfort food

Food:  Grilled Beef on a Crostini

Wine:  Misterio Malbec (Argentina) 2011

Beef with Argentinean Malbec...a sure thing

Food:  Beef Sliders with Goat Cheese

Wine:  Cupcake Vineyards Red Velvet (California) 2011

Beef, red pepper, and goat cheese with a young wine made for grilled meats

Food:  Enc(h)iladas

Wine:  Real Sitio de Ventosilla Recorba Crianza (Ribera del Duero) 2006

Mexican food with Spanish wine...Olé, indeed 

Food:  Salmon with Tarragon Mustard Sauce

Wine:  Joseph Cattin Hatschbourg Grand Cru (Alsace) 2009

Intensely flavoured full-bodied wine w/ full-bodied fish and flavourful sauce...

Bravo!

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