My Picks: Vintages Release ─ October 27 2012

In this week’s release at Vintages, the primary theme focuses on the world’s best-known wine region (Bordeaux).  Not much there that’s worthwhile for My Picks, where I recommend wines from regions that are lesser known or underappreciated.  Not to say you shouldn’t buy some Bordeaux red.  2009 was an excellent vintage, so have at it.  (Chateau Lestruelle and Chateau La Gravette Lacombe look like good value.)

Still, there’s a Bordeaux white worth a look.  (As much as Bordeaux red is over-exposed, Bordeaux white is overlooked just as much.)  There are 7 other wines worth your consideration, including a Chablis that saw no oak and a rarity (Riojan Graciano) that you shouldn’t miss.   

Organic

BONTERRA ZINFANDEL 2010, Mendocino County (California); #530139; Price: $17.00; 14.5% ABV

Zinfandel with “a little Petite Sirah”.  Here’s a Zinfandel with a lot going for it.  Made from certified organic grapes…just 14.5% alcohol (low for a Zin)…and a good price.  Great with Indian food that has a kick of spice.  Drink soon.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

CHÂTEAU DE CRUZEAU BLANC 2009, AC Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux); #966010; Price: $27.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Hand harvested.  Fermented in oak barrels.  No Malolactic fermentation.  Aged for 10 months in oak barrels (35% new) on its lees (spent yeast) with bâtonnage (stirring of the lees).  Fined by tartaric precipitation.  Try it with scallops or scampi.

SIMONNET-FEBVRE 2010, AC Chablis (Burgundy); #41780; Price: $19.95; 12.7% ABV

100% Chardonnay.  This is Chablis at its best.  Fermented in stainless steel.  Aged on its lees for 6 months in stainless steel, which allows the grape to shine through with its citrus and tree fruit aromas and flavours, and that wonderful flinty minerality.  Good price too.  Get some raw oysters!

Reds

MALIVOIRE ALBERT'S HONOUR OLD VINES FOCH 2010, VQA Ontario; #551036; Price: $24.95; 12.0% ABV

100% Maréchal Foch, a French hybrid created in the early 20^th century by crossing a European Vinifera vine with an American vine as a response to the phylloxera attack.  Now illegal in France.  Known for its resistance to disease and winter weather.  Hand harvested.  Fermented on its skins for 12 days. Aged in American oak barrels for 8 months.  Often described as rustic.  Ideal with stews.

LOUIS JADOT CHÂTEAU DES JACQUES 2009, AC Morgon (Beaujolais); #653584; Price: $23.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Gamay.  Hand harvested.  Fermented using natural yeasts in oak vats for 12 days, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged in oak barrels.  Ready to drink now but Morgon is the most age-worthy (up to 10 years) of all the Beaujolais Crus.  Hold on to it for a few of years and try it with braised game.

ALPHA DOMUS THE BARNSTORMER SYRAH 2010, North Island (New Zealand); #303396; Price: $22.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Syrah.  Hand and machine harvested.  Fermented with cultured yeast with maceration of 14 days.  Aged in French oak for 10 months. From a family-owned winery.  Try it with lamb, of course.  Drink soon.

MEANDRO DO VALE MEÃO 2009, DOC Douro (Portugal); #244731; Price: $22.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Touriga Nacional (35%), Touriga Franca (30%), Tinta Roriz aka Tempranillo (35%), Tinta Barroca (5%) and the little-known Sousão (5%).  Crushed by foot in Lagares -- granite tanks -- how’s that for tradition?  They ferment each grape separately, then blend. Aged in French oak barrels (second and third use).  A family-run winery.  Made for a winter’s dinner with lamb or beef stew but first needs another year of aging.

GRA2 GARCIANO 2010, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #190819; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Garciano, a high quality grape variety that was nearly extinct because of low yields but now making a slow comeback.  Maceration on the skins for 5 days before fermentation and 10 days after fermentation.  Aged in stainless steel tanks.   Known for its berry aromas and flavours, spicy character, and high acidity.  Should be great with roast chicken.  BEST VALUE.   

Honourable Mentions

LES PENSÉES DE PALLUS 2009, AC Chinon (Loire); #123893; Price: $21.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Cabernet Franc from Chinon.  Very food-friendly.

BODEGAS PABLO MENGUANTE VIDADILLO 2007, DO Carinena (Spain); #293407; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

Vidadillo (aka Crespiello):  a very obscure grape coming back from near extinction.

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Quick Picks: Vintages Release ─ October 13 2012

We’re just back from a month in Languedoc (more on that soon) and so while catching up on correspondence and all those other mundane tasks that pile up, there’s just enough time for a quick look at this week’s release at Vintages.

The primary theme, Aussie Artisans, is a good one.  Australia is home to some of the largest industrial wineries in the world.  Casella (makers of [yellow tail]) is just the most obvious example.  This theme gives a showcase to smaller, one-person or family-run wineries, where individuality and terroir can shine.  A couple of picks here, but you can’t go too far wrong with any of the choices in this theme.

Otherwise, the picks include 5 wines from France, 4 from the south.  Hmm, wonder how that happened?  Don’t miss the Picpoul.

Organic

DOMAINE CAZES EGO VIELLES VIGNES 2010, AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #77701; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (40%), and Mourvèdre (20%).  A classic representative of what Roussillon (just north of Catalonia) has to offer.  A can’t miss match with any braised meat.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

BEAUVIGNAC PICPOUL DE PINET 2011, AC Coteaux de Languedoc (France); #350124; Price: $12.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Picpoul.  Don’t know Picpoul?  It’s a wonderfully simple wine, ideal with oysters and clams and mussels.  High acidity; hence the name, which means lip stinger.  A personal favourite, much consumed on our recent trip to Languedoc.  Drink now.  BEST VALUE.

PASCAL JOLIVET LES CAILLOTES 2010, AC Sancerre (Loire); #287086; Price: $31.95; 13.0% ABV

THE ideal in Sauvignon Blanc.  Not inexpensive, but worth the loonies.

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL COUDOULET DE BEAUCASTEL BLANC 2011, AC Cotes du Rhône (Southern Rhone); #48892; Price: $33.95; 14.0% ABV

A wonderful blend of Marsanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Clairette…bringing back the aromas of the fruits and flowers of southern France.  Matches well with seafood, chicken (or anything that tastes just like) and pork in an herb-based sauce. 

PRÀ CLASSICO 2011, DOC Soave (Veneto); #74534; Price: $19.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Garganega.  Soave is still struggling from a poor brand image.  But it can be a delicious wine…and Pra is one of the best producers.  Taste how good a Soave can be.  Drink soon.  Excellent with white fish.

Reds

BENMARCO MALBEC 2010, Mendoza (Argentina); #657601; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

90% Malbec with 10% Bonarda.  It’s a standard from Susana Balbo.

PAXTON AAA SHIRAZ/GRENACHE 2010, McLaren Vale (Australia); #149898; Price: $19.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Shiraz (65%) and Grenache (35%).  A family-run winery, which is a good sign.  Michael Paxton says, “Expression of the vineyard in a glass.”  I’m in.

RED CLAW PINOT NOIR 2010, Mornington Peninsula (Australia); #296970; Price: $29.95; 14.0% ABV

Pinot Noir from the cool climate peninsula just south of the great city of Melbourne.

GUARDIAN PEAK SMG 2009, WO Stellenbosch (South Africa); #296681; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Grenache.  From a family-run winery.  If you like wines from Languedoc, try this.

JEAN-LUC COLOMBO LES FÉES BRUNES 2009, AC Crozes Hermitage (Northern Rhone); #286351; Price: $24.95; 13.0% ABV

It’s Syrah from Northern Rhone, where (regrettably) bargains are hard to come by.  It’s supply and demand.  Match it with a dish featuring anise flavours.  Drink soon.  Oh, just one more question…the brown fairies?

FRASCOLE 2009, DOCG Chianti Rufina (Tuscany); #85167; Price: $16.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Sangiovese.  I know what you're thinking…Chianti is not off the beaten track.  Yes, but Chianti Rufina is, compared to Chianti Classico.  Ages better than Classico.  An excellent food wine, matches with damn near any simple, classic Tuscan (or any Italian) dish.  And a great value at this price.

PEDRO MARTÍNEZ ALESANCO RESERVA 2006, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #170092; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV

Of course, it can’t be My Picks without something from Spain.  A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Garnacha (10%), aged in both American (the traditional approach) and French (the modern approach) oak.  Is it too late for a grilled steak?

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