Ah,
but the subtitle tells the tale: Span
the style spectrum. Turns out that this
is code for a bunch of wines with “international” grape varieties. It’s the usual suspects: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc,
Chardonnay, even Syrah, none of which I associate with Spain in particular. I’m guessing that Vintages has concluded that
the only way to turn its customers onto Spanish wines is to give us the Spanish
wines that are much like wines from anywhere else. Boring.
But
there are some Spanish wines that fall into the traditional category and 4 of
them (2 whites, 2 reds) are listed below.
Thank goodness for small mercies.
Other
than that, there just aren’t that many wines that fit My Picks. Maybe it’s time for a trip to the SAQ!
Organic
FATTORIA
LA RIPA 2009, DOCG Chianti Classico (Tuscany); #651596; Price $19.95; 13.0% ABV
A
blend of Sangiovese (90%) and Canaiolo (10%).
Aged in oak and then the bottle before release. Look for typical aromas of cherry, spices,
tobacco, and leather. Made with organic
grapes. It’s perfect with Italian dishes
with tomato-based sauces.
Off the Beaten Track
Whites
ALVAREZ DE TOLEDO GODELLO 2010, DO Bierzo (Spain); #308049; Price $13.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Godello. Hand-harvested. (Beppi Crosariol says that hand harvesting is meaningless. I’m a big fan of Beppi but not of MOG…Material Other than Grapes, which tends to end up in the mix with mechanical harvesting). Look for tree fruit and minerality. Ideal as an aperitif.
CUATRO RAYAS VIÑEDOS CENTENARIOS VERDEJO 2011, DO Rueda (Spain); #312900; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Verdejo, indigenous to the Rueda region in north-central Spain. Fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts. Left to age on its lees for 4 months. It’s known for its herbal and nutty aromas and flavours in addition to those of tree fruit. Ideal with grilled white fish.
Reds
MARCHESI MAZZEI ZISOLA NERO D'AVOLA 2009, IGT Sicilia (Italy); #303925; Price $25.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Nero d'Avola, it’s indigenous to Sicily. Handpicked. Maceration for 14 days. Aged 10 months in French oak barrels (one-third new) followed by one year of bottle aging. This is one of those wines made from a lesser-known (and underrated) Italian grape variety. It’s the Big Easy, ideal with typically spicy Sicilian food.
DON JACOBO RESERVA 2004, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #313270; Price $17.95; 13.5% ABV
A
blend of Tempranillo (95%) with Garnacha and Mazuelo aka Carignan (10%). Aged in oak for 14 months and then in bottle
before release. Typical Rioja, which
means aromas of cherries, plums, vanilla, with minerality on the palate. I’d try this with grilled lamb chops.
SOLAR DE SAEL CRIANZA MENCÍA 2007, DO Bierzo (Spain); #311902; Price $15.95;
14.5% ABV
100%
Mencia, another varietal indigenous to the north-west quadrant of Spain, this
time in Bierzo. Mencia is in vogue at
the moment…and deservedly so. This one’s
from old vines. Aged 12 months in new French
and American oak casks. These are big
wines, ideal with a roast beef.
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