When Andrew Jefford Talks...

One thing of which there seems to be no shortage is wine bloggers.   There are even conferences for wine bloggers:  one in North America (next year in Penticton) and one in Europe.   I’m not sure why so many of us who appreciate wine feel the passion to write about it.  Perhaps it's the wine that primes the creative pump.  As the ancient Greek poet Cratinius said, "No verse can give pleasure for long, nor last, that is written by water drinkers."

With so many wine writers out there, it’s easy to find writing to admire.  One of my favourites is Andrew Jefford, who writes a blog weekly, published on Mondays, for the Decanter website.  It’s a must read for my Monday mornings.  (And so it must be for many others, as Andrew won the Online Wine Writer of the Year Award at the 2012 International Wine Writer’s Awards.)  It certainly helps that I find myself nodding in agreement with his opinions…and shaking my head with envy at how clearly he expresses them.

Andrew recently gave the keynote address at the European wine bloggers’ conference (aka Digital Wine Communications Conference).  You can read it here and if you’re a fellow wine blogger, consider it compulsory.

My takeaways from Andrew’s keynote address:

• Traditional short-form wine writing is dead.  It’s all digital now.
• Making money from wine writing alone is difficult and getting more so.  (Any blogger can tell you that.)
• You must tell a story well.  That’s the challenge.  Fortunately, there’s no shortage of source material.
• Be distinctive.  Keep faith with whatever it was that ignited your passion to write about wine in the first place.
• If there’s one thing lacking in wine writing, it’s irreverence and humour.   And since bloggers don’t answer to a publisher, that’s where we come in.  (I agree.  But just as most actors think that comedy is the most challenging, I think that humour writing is the most challenging form to do well.  It’s why I think that David Sedaris is a genius.)

But this is said much more eloquently by Andrew himself.   Reading it is time well spent.

Subscribing to this blog through RSS or email is easy! Just click on the subscribe link to the left ←

My Picks: Vintages Release ─ November 24 2012

The emphasis on holiday extravagance continues this week at Vintages, with the second of what should be 3 consecutive releases with lots of expensive - and often overpriced - offerings.

 

As always, your faithful servant has scoured the catalogue for worthy choices that meet the criteria for My Picks.  Not surprisingly, only 6 wines made the cut and all 6 come from Italy and southern France.  Even so, just 2 wines are less than $20. 

Off the Beaten Track

White

TORRE ROSAZZA FRIULANO 2010, DOC Colli Orientali del Friuli (Italy); #289520; Price $19.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Friulano.  Fermented in steel.  Aged on its lees for 4 months in stainless steel.  Look for tree fruit and floral aromas with minerality.  Excellent as an aperitif, the winemaker bravely recommends matching it with eggs and asparagus!


Reds

DOMAINE MICHELAS ST-JEMMS SAINTE EPINE 2009, AC Saint-Joseph (Northern Rhone); #296772; Price $31.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Syrah.  Hand harvested.  Aged 12 months in oak.  Family-owned.  Not too expensive for a northern Rhone wine.  Try it with beef or game.

Up next, a couple of Southern Rhone reds, great with braised lamb.

DOMAINE GRAND VENEUR CLOS DE SIXTE 2010, AC Lirac (Southern Rhone); #76349; Price $22.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (50%), Syrah (35%), and Mourvèdre (15%).  Fermented in stainless steel vats with 18 days of maceration.  Family-owned.  Most Lirac producers, including this one, also produce Chateauneuf-du-Pape on the other side of the Rhone River.  But Lirac doesn’t carry the same cachet…or the same price.  Needs another year in the cellar.

PIERRE AMADIEU ROMANE MACHOTTE 2010, AC Gigondas (Southern Rhone); #17400; Price $23.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache and Syrah.  Hand harvested.  30-day maceration.  Aged for 12 months, partly in two-year-old oak barrels and partly in larger oak casks.  Family-owned.  Look for dark fruits and dried herbs on the nose.

SALCHETO 2006; DOCG Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Tuscany); #685180; Price $24.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Prugnolo Gentile (aka Sangiovese).  Fermented in large Slovenian oak casks.  Aged partly in those Slovenian casks (18 months) and partly in French oak barrels (6 months), then another 6 months in bottle.  Despite that, this is one of those mystery bottles that turns up every so often at Vintages.  2006, where’s it been?  The winery is working towards being 100% energy self-sufficient, upping the cool factor.

MUSELLA VIGNE NUOVE 2009, DOC Valpolicella Superiore (Veneto); #205757; Price $15.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of Corvina and Corvinone (70%), Rondinella (20%) and Barbera! (10%) from very young (5 and 10 years old) vineyards.  Maceration and fermentation for 12 days, followed by Malolactic conversion.  Aged for 12 months in 225-litre and 500-litre barrels “of various origins and essence”. Extremely versatile with food.  BEST VALUE!

Honourable Mentions

DOMAINE SPIROPOULOS 2011, PDO Mantinia (Greece); #710970; Price $14.95; 11.5% ABV

The grape variety is Moschofilero, organically grown in Mantinia, which gives the wine a faint pink colour (thanks to short maceration).  Family-owned.  Look for floral aromas (roses, lemon-blossom, bergamot) and crisp acidity.  Organic.

 

PEWSEY VALE RIESLING 2011, Eden Valley (Australia); #686600; Price $19.95; 12.5% ABV

Look for citrus fruit, white flowers, and minerality.  A taste of paradise.

 

EWALD GRUBER HUNDSPOINT GRÜNER VELTLINER 2011, Weinviertel (Austria); #298299; Price: $17.95; 13.0% ABV

Gruener Veltliner, the signature white grape variety of Austria.  Known for tree fruit and white pepper flavours with fresh acidity.

 

CICCHITTI EDICIÓN LIMITADA MALBEC 2008, Mendoza (Argentina); #260893; Price $24.95; 14.0% ABV

Malbec, the signature red variety of Argentina.

 

DAMALISCO CRIANZA 2008, DO Toro (Spain); #306589; Price $16.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Tinta de Toro (aka Tempranillo).  Aged 10 months in oak.


Subscribing to this blog through RSS or email is easy! Just click on the subscribe link to the left ←

Viva Vini Portugal!

For my generation, Portuguese table wines are forever linked to Mateus, that off-dry rosé that introduced so many of us to wine drinking (or wine-bingeing), along with such classics as Blue Nun and the faux-German Schloss Laderheim.  Oh yes, they still make it by the way.

But if you’re giving Portuguese wines a pass because you still think that they’re just about cheap rosé, then you’re missing one of the most interesting revolutions in Old World winemaking.

For many years, like other southern European wine regions, Portugal relied on co-operatives for the production of table wines.  Historically, with few exceptions, co-operatives focussed on domestic consumption, promoting quantity over quality to keep growers in business and cheap wine on the table at home.  Making things worse, the government set strict controls on winemaking, stifling innovation and the pursuit of excellence.

We've seen that change in the last 20 years.  The result is gradual shift to:

• investments in modern winemaking equipment and techniques
• favouring quality over quantity
• promoting independent winemakers at the expense of co-operatives

OK, this same story is playing out in many southern European regions.  What’s different about Portugal?

To answer that question, you have to understand the Portuguese:  reserved by nature, fiercely independent and proud of their heritage.  (The Portuguese no more like to regarded as "just like the Spanish" than Canadians like to be confused with Americans).

In winemaking, this national pride manifests itself in the devotion to Portugal’s 300 indigenous grape varieties:  Touriga Nacional, Baga, Alicante Bouschet, Trincadeira among the reds; Alvarinho, Loureiro, Encruzado, and Bical among the whites.  Even Tempranillo is not Tempranillo in Portugal, it’s Tinta Roriz or (in some regions) Aragonês.

Nature has blessed Portugal with a variety of climates:  On the Atlantic coast, there’s a Maritime climate with cool breezes and lots of precipitation.  From the south comes the Mediterranean climate:  hot and dry in the summer, mild in the winter.  Along the Spanish border, there’s the Continental climate with its hot summers and cool winters, and larger temperature swings from day to night.

Add the wide variety of soils and the result is a multitude of terroirs.  This gives Portugal the opportunity to produce a wide variety of wine styles and they take advantage of it.  It might not seem easy to pin down Portugal.  But what’s the fun in that?

If, like me, you like wines that are “off the beaten track”, Portugal offers new and exciting experiences at very reasonable prices.  So when an invitation to a tasting of Portuguese wines dropped into my Inbox recently, I jumped at the chance to go.

Hosted by Wines of Portugal and ably led by Sara d’Amato, we tasted our way through 2 whites and 7 reds, followed by a white and 2 more reds with lunch at the restaurant, Play.  Most of these wines are typically Old World:  made to consume with food but there are a few that are more New World in style, just fine for sipping on their own.  But we tasted a couple of wines blended with Cabernet Sauvignon.  It just goes to show that even Portuguese winemakers can make the mistake of straying from the natural advantage that their indigenous varietals give them.  Does the world really need more Cabernet Sauvignon?

Each of the wines we tasted passed through the LCBO or Vintages in the past year.  Some may still be available if you check, except the last wine, where the 2007 vintage is now available at a much higher price.  (Organizers of tastings should put more focus on upcoming arrivals.)

Next time you’re at your liquor store, check out something different:  the new wines from Portugal.

Quinta da Aveleda 2011, Vinho Verde; $9.95; 11.5% ABV
A blend of Loureiro and Alvarinho.  Fermented and aged (on its lees) in stainless steel.  Filtered.  Citrus, grassy, and floral on the nose with citrus dominating on the plate.  Terrifically fresh acidity with a good finish.  I had a sudden craving for grilled sardines drizzled with olive oil.

Planalto Reserva Vinho Branco Seco 2012, Douro; $14.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Malvasia Fina, Viosinho, Gouveio, and Codega, all indigenous to Douro.  Aromas of white peach and flowers with peach and pear in the flavours.  Light-bodied, dry with a slightly oily mouthfeel.  Another great match with seafood.

Alianca Bairrada Reserva Sangalhos 2010, Bairrada; $8.75; 12% ABV
Mostly Baga, a grape variety that typically yields wines with high acidity and tannins.  That’s certainly the case here.  Aromas of red cherry and plums, with the tannins leaving a agreeably bitter aftertaste.  No oak.  As the price indicates, it’s an entry-level wine.  It's made to go with pizza.  

Quinta Dos Roques Vinho Tinto 2009, Dao; $15.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Jaen, Alfrocheiro, and Tinta Roriz.  Fermented in stainless steel vats with selected yeasts.  Maceration for 15 days.  Aged in French oak barrels for 9 months.  Filtered.  The aromas were somewhat muted, but red cherry and raspberry, flowers, and tar did come through.  Flavours of red fruits and a bit of spice, with both medium high acidity and tannins.  It’s another wine made to drink with food, such as a meaty stew.

Quinta Da Nespereira Vineaticu 2008, Dao; $18.95; 14% ABV
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz.  Aromas of blackberries, spices, and herbs.  Less austere than its predecessors, this will appeal to those with a New World palate (it’s comparatively jammy).  Firm tannins.  Aged for 6 months in French oak.

Alvaro Castro Red 2008; Dao; $16.95; 13% ABV
A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz.  Aromas and flavours of black cherry and spices.  Rounder and softer mouthfeel than its predecessors; another wine that approaches a New World style.

Esporao Reserva Red 2009; Alentejo; $25.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Aragonês, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Alicante Bouschet.  (I’ll let you guess which grape variety is not indigenous to Portugal.)  This is the wine that Vintages thinks should be the benchmark for Portuguese wine; it’s on the Essentials list.  As I recall from visits to Portugal, it’s also one of the most widely available wines in restaurants there.  Aromas of dark cherry, spice, and vanilla with a whack of alcohol.  Again, it’s a rounder, softer mouthfeel with jammy flavours of plum, black cherry, and vanilla.  It’s an obvious attempt to appeal to a New World palate.  Nothing distinctive from oodles of other jammy wines.  Each grape variety handpicked and vinified separately.  Fermented with cultured yeasts in open tanks, followed by Malolactic conversion in stainless steel tanks.  Aged 12 months in French (30%) and American (70%) oak barrels, than another 12 months in bottle before release.

Contraste Red 2008; Douro; $15.35; 13.7% ABV
A blend of Tinta Roriz, Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, and Sousao.  Aged in French oak (70%) for 18 months.  Aromas of plum, blackberries, and black olive.  Medium acidity and grippy tannins that should soften with more aging.  If you’re patient, then this will go well with braised meat; if not, then grill a steak.

Quinta Do Infantado Red 2009; Douro; $17.85; 14% ABV
Here’s a wine that mimics the nose and flavours of a port.  Aromas of plum, cherry, blueberry, liquorice, and chocolate, which all show up in the flavours.  Soft tannins, good acidity, and a moderately long but somewhat harsh finish.

Quinta Da Garrida Reserva White 2010; Dao; $14.95; 13.5% ABV
Encruzado, an indigenous variety.  40% barrel fermentation in French oak, then aged for 3 months.  Aromas of peach and white flowers, with flavours of peach, golden apples, and minerality.  Medium-high acidity with a slightly bitter aftertaste, which I like.  Served with beets, spinach, quinoa, blackberry, blue cheese, and star anise.

Bacalhoa Tinto Da Anfora 2009, Alentejo; $11.95; 14% ABV
A blend of Aragonês, Trincadeira, Touriga Nacional, and (sigh) Cabernet Sauvignon.  Each grape variety fermented and aged separately, then blended.  Aged 12 months in oak barrels.  Aromas of black cherries, with blackberry joining them on the flavours.  Served with Cassoulet (chorizo, white beans, arugula).  Simple dish, simple wine, both well prepared.

Quinta do Portal Grande Reserva 2006; Douro; $28.95; 14% ABV
A blend of Touriga Nacional (50%), Tinto Roriz (35%), and Touriga Franca (15%).  Handpicked.  Maceration and fermentation in stainless steel tanks, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged 14 months in new French oak.  Aromas and flavours of plum, cherry, liquorice, and chocolate.  Soft tannins.  You can put this one in the cellar for a few more years.  Served with Chocolate Pâté, Pink Peppercorns, Dried Cherry, and Caramel Chantilly.  It’s quite similar to Port (but without the sweetness).  Vintages recently released the 2007 at $49.  Quite the price hike from $29, but I guess that’s what a high score (93) from Parker can do for you.

Subscribing to this blog through RSS or email is easy! Just click on the subscribe link to the left ←

My Picks: Vintages Release ─ November 10 2012

They've started the Christmas season at Vintages.  Bah, humbug!

I'm one of those old-fashioned types (aka fogies) who believe that Christmas belongs in December.  That's what makes it special.  But like every other retailer with no imagination, Vintages has once again jumped the gun and here we have the first release of a overly-long season.

Of course, expensive products have pride of place in this release.  But if you look carefully, you can find good values. 

There's a minor focus on Piedmont (just 7 wines).  It's the Barbera d'Alba that's the pick of the group.

Only 7 picks met the criteria for My Picks, all red.  Nothing organic but there are a couple of organic wines (both white) that I've included in the Honourable Mentions.

Off the Beaten Track

 

13TH STREET SANDSTONE OLD VINES GAMAY NOIR 2010, VQA Four Mile Crook (Niagara); #130195; Price $29.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Gamay. Handpicked. Cold soaked and fermented in stainless steel vats. Transferred to French oak barrels, (1/3 new) for Malolactic conversion and aging for “several” months, then blended. The winery recommends matching this with “venison, steak frites, grilled duck breast, or cow and ewe’s milk cheeses”.  Put this one away for a few years. Decant.

 

VASSE FELIX CABERNET/MERLOT 2010, Margaret River (Australia); #947879; Price $24.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (55%), Merlot (37%), and Malbec (8%). Maceration and fermentation in stainless steel tanks. Aged for 12 months in French Oak (7% new, 93% 1-5 years old), then blended. The attraction here is the source: Margaret River in Western Australia.  Put away in the cellar for a couple of years.

 

PIERRE AMADIEU LA GRANGELIÈRE 2010, AC Vacqueyras (Southern Rhone); #76398; Price $19.95; 14.5% ABV

A typical southern Rhone blend of Grenache and Syrah. The Syrah is aged 9 months in oak barrels (50% new) and they aged the Grenache in large oak casks. Look for the typical flavours of red berries and pepper.

 

VIDAL-FLEURY 2009, AC CROZES HERMITAGE (Northern Rhone); #295832; Price $22.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Syrah. Both machine and hand harvested. Maceration for 3 weeks. Fermented with indigenous yeast, followed by Malolactic conversion. Aged on its lees for 3 months in tanks, then 6 months in foudres (large oak barrels). Clarification by settling and filtration. Unfined. Released 4 months after bottling.

 

GIACOMO BORGOGNO SUPERIORE 2010, DOC BARBERA D'ALBA (Piedmont); #285486; Price $19.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Barbera. 8 days maceration. Aged 12 months in oak barrels, then 2 months in bottle before release. Very versatile with food. Try it with grilled veal chops in a light cream sauce.

 

QUINTA DOS QUATROS VENTOS COLHEITA 2008, DOC Douro (Portugal); #902742; Price $24.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo) and Touriga Nacional. Aged 12 months in new French oak and Russian oak barrels. Excellent with stews and braised meats.

 

NEKEAS EL CHAPARRAL DE VEGA SINDOA OLD VINES GARNACHA 2010, DO Navarra (Spain); #291997; Price $18.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Garnacha from old vines planted in Spain’s northernmost Garnacha vineyard, rescued from near extinction. They ferment the grapes from each plot separately, with 20 days of maceration, followed by Malolactic conversion and 5 months in barrels, then blending. It’s a lighter style of Grenache. An early candidate for turkey dinner.

 

TILENUS ENVEJECIDO EN ROBLE 2007, DO Bierzo (Spain); #297143; Price $17.95; 14.5% ABV

100% Mencia…very “in” at the moment. It’s indigenous to Bierzo in northwest Spain, a continental climate (hot summers) but with some cooling from the nearby maritime climate. Fermented in stainless steel tanks. Aged 8 months in French oak (85%) and American oak (15%), then in the bottle for another year before release, following the traditional Spanish practice of keeping the wine at the winery until it’s ready to drink. No filtration or fining, so decanting is a good idea. Look for black fruits and spiciness on the palate.  Meant for aging.  BEST VALUE.

 

 

Honourable Mentions

 

BONTERRA SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, Lake and Mendocino Counties (California); #86249; Price $17.95; 13.1% ABV

Mostly Sauvignon Blanc, with Muscat and Chardonnay. Certified Organic.

 

YALUMBA ORGANIC VIOGNIER 2011, South Australia; #288217; Price $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Viognier. Organic. Excellent with Asian dishes.

 

KIM CRAWFORD SMALL PARCEL THE MISTRESS RIESLING 2006, South Island (New Zealand); #90134; Price $24.95; 13.0% ABV

Riesling from the cool climate South Island. Tell me more.

 

PAZO PONDAL LEIRA ALBARIÑO 2011, DO Rías Baixas (Spain); #115816; Price $15.95; 12.5% ABV

Albarino…one of my favourites. It’s a wine from a maritime climate that’s perfect with food from a maritime climate. Yes, it’s just that easy.

Subscribing to this blog through RSS or email is easy! Just click on the subscribe link to the left ←

My Picks: Vintages Release ─ October 27 2012

In this week’s release at Vintages, the primary theme focuses on the world’s best-known wine region (Bordeaux).  Not much there that’s worthwhile for My Picks, where I recommend wines from regions that are lesser known or underappreciated.  Not to say you shouldn’t buy some Bordeaux red.  2009 was an excellent vintage, so have at it.  (Chateau Lestruelle and Chateau La Gravette Lacombe look like good value.)

Still, there’s a Bordeaux white worth a look.  (As much as Bordeaux red is over-exposed, Bordeaux white is overlooked just as much.)  There are 7 other wines worth your consideration, including a Chablis that saw no oak and a rarity (Riojan Graciano) that you shouldn’t miss.   

Organic

BONTERRA ZINFANDEL 2010, Mendocino County (California); #530139; Price: $17.00; 14.5% ABV

Zinfandel with “a little Petite Sirah”.  Here’s a Zinfandel with a lot going for it.  Made from certified organic grapes…just 14.5% alcohol (low for a Zin)…and a good price.  Great with Indian food that has a kick of spice.  Drink soon.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

CHÂTEAU DE CRUZEAU BLANC 2009, AC Pessac-Léognan (Bordeaux); #966010; Price: $27.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Hand harvested.  Fermented in oak barrels.  No Malolactic fermentation.  Aged for 10 months in oak barrels (35% new) on its lees (spent yeast) with bâtonnage (stirring of the lees).  Fined by tartaric precipitation.  Try it with scallops or scampi.

SIMONNET-FEBVRE 2010, AC Chablis (Burgundy); #41780; Price: $19.95; 12.7% ABV

100% Chardonnay.  This is Chablis at its best.  Fermented in stainless steel.  Aged on its lees for 6 months in stainless steel, which allows the grape to shine through with its citrus and tree fruit aromas and flavours, and that wonderful flinty minerality.  Good price too.  Get some raw oysters!

Reds

MALIVOIRE ALBERT'S HONOUR OLD VINES FOCH 2010, VQA Ontario; #551036; Price: $24.95; 12.0% ABV

100% Maréchal Foch, a French hybrid created in the early 20^th century by crossing a European Vinifera vine with an American vine as a response to the phylloxera attack.  Now illegal in France.  Known for its resistance to disease and winter weather.  Hand harvested.  Fermented on its skins for 12 days. Aged in American oak barrels for 8 months.  Often described as rustic.  Ideal with stews.

LOUIS JADOT CHÂTEAU DES JACQUES 2009, AC Morgon (Beaujolais); #653584; Price: $23.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Gamay.  Hand harvested.  Fermented using natural yeasts in oak vats for 12 days, followed by Malolactic fermentation.  Aged in oak barrels.  Ready to drink now but Morgon is the most age-worthy (up to 10 years) of all the Beaujolais Crus.  Hold on to it for a few of years and try it with braised game.

ALPHA DOMUS THE BARNSTORMER SYRAH 2010, North Island (New Zealand); #303396; Price: $22.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Syrah.  Hand and machine harvested.  Fermented with cultured yeast with maceration of 14 days.  Aged in French oak for 10 months. From a family-owned winery.  Try it with lamb, of course.  Drink soon.

MEANDRO DO VALE MEÃO 2009, DOC Douro (Portugal); #244731; Price: $22.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Touriga Nacional (35%), Touriga Franca (30%), Tinta Roriz aka Tempranillo (35%), Tinta Barroca (5%) and the little-known Sousão (5%).  Crushed by foot in Lagares -- granite tanks -- how’s that for tradition?  They ferment each grape separately, then blend. Aged in French oak barrels (second and third use).  A family-run winery.  Made for a winter’s dinner with lamb or beef stew but first needs another year of aging.

GRA2 GARCIANO 2010, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #190819; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV

100% Garciano, a high quality grape variety that was nearly extinct because of low yields but now making a slow comeback.  Maceration on the skins for 5 days before fermentation and 10 days after fermentation.  Aged in stainless steel tanks.   Known for its berry aromas and flavours, spicy character, and high acidity.  Should be great with roast chicken.  BEST VALUE.   

Honourable Mentions

LES PENSÉES DE PALLUS 2009, AC Chinon (Loire); #123893; Price: $21.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Cabernet Franc from Chinon.  Very food-friendly.

BODEGAS PABLO MENGUANTE VIDADILLO 2007, DO Carinena (Spain); #293407; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

Vidadillo (aka Crespiello):  a very obscure grape coming back from near extinction.

Subscribing to this blog through RSS or email is easy! Just click on the subscribe link to the left ←

Quick Picks: Vintages Release ─ October 13 2012

We’re just back from a month in Languedoc (more on that soon) and so while catching up on correspondence and all those other mundane tasks that pile up, there’s just enough time for a quick look at this week’s release at Vintages.

The primary theme, Aussie Artisans, is a good one.  Australia is home to some of the largest industrial wineries in the world.  Casella (makers of [yellow tail]) is just the most obvious example.  This theme gives a showcase to smaller, one-person or family-run wineries, where individuality and terroir can shine.  A couple of picks here, but you can’t go too far wrong with any of the choices in this theme.

Otherwise, the picks include 5 wines from France, 4 from the south.  Hmm, wonder how that happened?  Don’t miss the Picpoul.

Organic

DOMAINE CAZES EGO VIELLES VIGNES 2010, AP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages (France); #77701; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Grenache (40%), Syrah (40%), and Mourvèdre (20%).  A classic representative of what Roussillon (just north of Catalonia) has to offer.  A can’t miss match with any braised meat.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

BEAUVIGNAC PICPOUL DE PINET 2011, AC Coteaux de Languedoc (France); #350124; Price: $12.95; 12.5% ABV

100% Picpoul.  Don’t know Picpoul?  It’s a wonderfully simple wine, ideal with oysters and clams and mussels.  High acidity; hence the name, which means lip stinger.  A personal favourite, much consumed on our recent trip to Languedoc.  Drink now.  BEST VALUE.

PASCAL JOLIVET LES CAILLOTES 2010, AC Sancerre (Loire); #287086; Price: $31.95; 13.0% ABV

THE ideal in Sauvignon Blanc.  Not inexpensive, but worth the loonies.

CHÂTEAU DE BEAUCASTEL COUDOULET DE BEAUCASTEL BLANC 2011, AC Cotes du Rhône (Southern Rhone); #48892; Price: $33.95; 14.0% ABV

A wonderful blend of Marsanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc, and Clairette…bringing back the aromas of the fruits and flowers of southern France.  Matches well with seafood, chicken (or anything that tastes just like) and pork in an herb-based sauce. 

PRÀ CLASSICO 2011, DOC Soave (Veneto); #74534; Price: $19.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Garganega.  Soave is still struggling from a poor brand image.  But it can be a delicious wine…and Pra is one of the best producers.  Taste how good a Soave can be.  Drink soon.  Excellent with white fish.

Reds

BENMARCO MALBEC 2010, Mendoza (Argentina); #657601; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

90% Malbec with 10% Bonarda.  It’s a standard from Susana Balbo.

PAXTON AAA SHIRAZ/GRENACHE 2010, McLaren Vale (Australia); #149898; Price: $19.95; 14.0% ABV

A blend of Shiraz (65%) and Grenache (35%).  A family-run winery, which is a good sign.  Michael Paxton says, “Expression of the vineyard in a glass.”  I’m in.

RED CLAW PINOT NOIR 2010, Mornington Peninsula (Australia); #296970; Price: $29.95; 14.0% ABV

Pinot Noir from the cool climate peninsula just south of the great city of Melbourne.

GUARDIAN PEAK SMG 2009, WO Stellenbosch (South Africa); #296681; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV

A blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Grenache.  From a family-run winery.  If you like wines from Languedoc, try this.

JEAN-LUC COLOMBO LES FÉES BRUNES 2009, AC Crozes Hermitage (Northern Rhone); #286351; Price: $24.95; 13.0% ABV

It’s Syrah from Northern Rhone, where (regrettably) bargains are hard to come by.  It’s supply and demand.  Match it with a dish featuring anise flavours.  Drink soon.  Oh, just one more question…the brown fairies?

FRASCOLE 2009, DOCG Chianti Rufina (Tuscany); #85167; Price: $16.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Sangiovese.  I know what you're thinking…Chianti is not off the beaten track.  Yes, but Chianti Rufina is, compared to Chianti Classico.  Ages better than Classico.  An excellent food wine, matches with damn near any simple, classic Tuscan (or any Italian) dish.  And a great value at this price.

PEDRO MARTÍNEZ ALESANCO RESERVA 2006, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #170092; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV

Of course, it can’t be My Picks without something from Spain.  A blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Garnacha (10%), aged in both American (the traditional approach) and French (the modern approach) oak.  Is it too late for a grilled steak?

Subscribing to this blog through RSS or email is easy! Just click on the subscribe link to the left ←