Cave De La Côte Gamaret/Garanoir 2008

Cave De La Côte Gamaret/Garanoir 2008, VDP Selection Suisse Romande (Switzerland); #160739; Price: $19.95; 13.3% ABV

Gamaret and Garanoir are both a cross between Gamay and Reichensteiner – same parents but different grapes – a Swiss researcher developed both. Has the colouring of a Beaujolais Cru (medium ruby). Earthy and mineral aromas dominate, with some under-ripe plum, spice, and floral notes on the nose as well. Plum and cherry show up on the palate. It has medium acidity and some drying tannins on the back end. Medium-bodied, the finish is a bit short. A simple wine, it goes quite well with BBQ-grilled mushrooms and works with salmon sausages (from Saslove).

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Jancis Robinson Speaks Out...

...about Cellared In Canada and VQA. 

It's a blend of one part slap across the back of the head for the Cellared In Canada concept...one part, kick in the ass
for Canadian wine consumers who still think that we don't make good wine and shun our wines...and one part, pat on the back for VQA winemakers who are showing that we can (and are) making excellent, world-class wines.

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La Joya Viognier Reserve 2008

LA JOYA VIOGNIER RESERVE 2008, Colchagua Valley (Chile); #168542; Price: $13.95; 14.3% ABV

Aromas of ripe, ripe pears, white peach and some tropical pineapple. Typical floral notes for a Viognier as well, with vanilla bean! Pear and white peach flavours through to the finish, a hint of vanilla there too, with pleasant medium acidity. Full bodied, it’s a soft, smooth one. Excellent match with BBQ grilled satay pork. Great value!

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Chateau D'Aquéria Rosé Tavel 2009

Lately, I've fallen behind on my tasting notes.  Here's one now.

CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA ROSÉ TAVEL 2009, AC Rhone (France); #319368; Price: $18.95; 13.5% ABV

Bright cheery (and cherry) red, the nose immediately reminds me of strawberry Jell-O from my childhood. There are aromas of red cherry, rose notes, and herbs there as well. The strawberry dominates on the palate through to the finish, with some odd tannic bitterness at the back end. Maybe some stems and leaves got into the must? Not quite as much acidity as I like in a rosé and the medium-full body takes me off-guard as well. Overall, it’s a bit soft with sharp edges of acidity here and there, as if the acidity wants to break through but doesn’t quite. Good length. A blend of Bourboulenc (6 %), Clairette (9%), Grenache (52%), Syrah (12%), Mourvèdre (11%), Cinsault (9%), and Picpoul (2%).  The bottle says 13.5% ABV, the Vintages listing says 12.9%.

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My Picks: Vintages Release -- May 29

I’ve been a frequent critic of Vintages’ chronic under-representation of the fabulous wines of the Loire Valley. (I won’t get started here about the lack of dry German Rieslings…shame). So with this week’s release holding 14 wines from the Loire, that’s where we start, taking note of an organic wine first…

Organic

DOMAINE DU PETIT COTEAU LES GRENOUILLES SEC VOUVRAY 2008, AC Vouvray, France; #106815; Price: $16.95; 13.0% ABV
Made from Chenin Blanc, a poster child for underappreciated varietals. The beauty of Vouvray is its acidity, wonderful when young, but able to age well over five years or more. Known for its aromas of citrus, apricots, and flowers. Try it, you’ll like it! Part of Chateau Moncontour, Domaine de Petit Coteau makes their organic wines.

Off the Beaten Track 

Moving east to west along the Loire Valley…

LA CROIX CANAT POUILLY-FUMÉ 2008, AC Pouilly-Fumé (France); #145805; Price: $21.95; 13.3% ABV
A famous name…you pay a premium for it. But the name is famous for its quality. Typically citrus, floral, flinty (even smoky) minerality, with some peach aromas.

DOMAINE LECOMTE QUINCY 2008, AC Quincy (France); #172528; Price: $18.95; 13.5% ABV
Ah, Sauvignon Blanc from its traditional home. Look for citrus, floral, and pepper aromas and the citrus continuing on the taste. Not as grassy as, say, most New Zealand examples. Excellent summer sipping as an aperitif or with grilled seafood or chicken.

DOMAINE DU CARROI PORTIER CUVÉE DES FOLIES CHINON 2008, AC Chinon Rouge (France); #170241; Price: $13.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Cabernet Franc. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Should have more fruit, less herbaceousness than Ontario Cab Franc. Continues to age well into 2013.

DOMAINE DES QUATRE ROUTES MUSCADET SÈVRE & MAINE 2008; AC Muscadet Sèvre & Maine (France); #608893; Price: $11.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Melon de Bourgogne. Citrus & minerality. Crack open some raw oysters…yes, you can too eat them all year round.

Our trip across the 400 km Loire Valley ended on the Atlantic coast. Now let’s head down the coast to northwest corner of Spain…

MARTÍN CÓDAX ALBARIÑO 2008, DO Rias Baixas (Spain); #984906; Price: $17.95; 12.0% ABV
100% Albarino…a personal favourite from the extreme northwest of Spain on the Atlantic coast, that bit just above Portugal. Look for crisp, fresh acidity with apple and herbal aromas. Another great match for summer dining.

On to this week’s crop of rosés. Unfortunately, none of them fit the bone-dry criteria that I like to hold to, but here are five that I’ll try.

MAS BELLES EAUX COLLECTION LANGUEDOC ROSÉ 2009; Vin de Pays D’Oc (France); #117358; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Syrah (90%) – with very short carbonic maceration – and Mourvèdre (10%) – obtained from Saignée method. Fermentation in stainless steel. Made by a honking big wine merchant that’s part of AXA, an insurance company. Well, nobody’s perfect.

CHÂTEAU VAL JOANIS TRADITION SYRAH ROSÉ 2009, AC Luberon (France); #707281; Price: $14.95; 13.0% ABV
Syrah and Grenache, using the Saignée method (some juice is bled off after a short period of skin contact; the remaining juice stays on the skins and becomes red wine). Look for aromas of raspberries and redcurrant.

CASA DO VALLE VINHO VERDE ROSÉ 2009, DOC Vinho Verde (Portugal); #167478; Price: $11.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Vinhão, a red-fleshed varietal known for high acidity that's sometimes used in Port blends, and Rabo de Ovelha.

VENTOZELO QV ROSÉ 2009, DOC Douro (Portugal); #165068; Price: $11.95; 13.5% ABV
A rosé Port? A blend of classic Port varietals – Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Roriz. Fermentation, then aging for 3 months, in stainless steel. Filtered. Look for aromas of red fruits and spices.

MARQUÉS DE VALCARLOS ROSADO 2009, DO Navarra; #167239; Price: $11.95; 12.9% ABV
A blend of Tempranillo and Merlot. 24-hour maceration, with fermentation in stainless steel.

And, finally, here’s a red that’s worth picking up for next winter…

LAN GRAN RESERVA 2003, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #928622; Price: $28.95; 12.5% ABV
Last month, we saw the 2004 LAN Reserva, now here’s the Gran Reserva from the year before. A blend of Tempranillo (80%), Mazuelo (10%), and Garnacha (10%). 3 weeks of maceration with fermentation in stainless steel. Aged in American and French oak barrels for 24 months (compared to 12 months for Reserva), followed by 36 months in bottle (compared to 24 months for Reserva).

That’s right. I’m completely skipping the Argentine wines. I guess I’m Malbec-ed out.

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A Rosé by Any Other Name?

I was puzzled about a Rioja wine in the May 15 Vintages release: Muga Rosé 2009. The winemaker’s website says it’s a blend of Garnacha (60%), Viura (30%), and Tempranillo (10%). Viura is a white varietal, so at first blush -- yes, I know -- I thought they made this rosé by blending red wine and white wine together. Only one problem. The EU still forbids making rosé by blending red wine and white wine. So what’s going on?

Turns out that there’s nothing forbidden with mixing red grapes and white grapes together to make rosé, as long as they start out together from the very start of the vinification process. What you can't do is mix unfermented red juice and white juice together to make a rosé. And you can’t mix red wine and white wine together to make a rosé.  In the EU, that is.  Those methods are allowed elsewhere.

Muga puts the Garnacha, Viura, and Tempranillo grapes together right at the start, macerates the grape juice with the grape skins for 12 hours, drains the juice from the skins, and then ferments the wine for 25 days in large oak vats. It remains in the oak vats for 2 months before bottling.

The result? It has a pale salmon colour with orange hues. Aromas of sour cherry, red apple, some minerality, and lime. Wonderful acidity, with flavours of apple and cherry. Medium-bodied with good length.

Rosé…red and white grapes together…it’s great value at $13, I’ll buy more!

(My thanks to Jesus Viguera at Bodega Muga for his enlightenment.)

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My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives -- May 19

Here’s my shopping list for this week’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.

Organic

DOMAINE OSTERTAG HEISSENBERG RIESLING 2007, AC Alsace (France); #0164962; 13% ABV; $35
One of the best producers in Alsace…believes in terroir…Biodynamic too…and a great vintage! Nuff said.

Off the Beaten Track

BODEGA DEL ABAD CARRACEDO TINTO MENCÍA 2005, DO Bierzo (Spain); #0167718; 14% ABV; $29
100% Mencia from Bierzo! Bierzo is up in northwest Spain, with influence from both Atlantic and Mediterranean climates. Mencia is the red varietal native to Beirzo. Amazing wines now coming from there. Unfiltered.

SCHIOPETTO SAUVIGNON 2007, DOC Collio (Friuli, Italy); #0165027; 14% ABV; $29
100% Sauvignon Blanc. OK, so it’s not a native grape. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. A good summer wine; should be great with grilled seafood.

SERGIO MOTTURA POGGIO DELLA COSTA GRECHETTO 2008; IGT Civitella d'Agliano (Lazio, Italy); #0165043; 14% ABV; $20
100% Grechetto, an underappreciated varietal from central Italy. Aged on its lees in stainless steel. Another candidate for summer sipping on the patio with grilled seafood.

VIGNE DEI MASTRI MARCELLO ROSSO 2007, DOC Monferrato (Piedmont, Italy); #0167411; 14% ABV; $24
A blend of Barbera (40%), Merlot (40%), and Albarossa (20%). Albarossa is a Barbera x Nebbiolo crossing and this is the first time that I’ve seen it used. Aged 14 months in French oak.

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Hellacious Sales Tax

Priceless…no other word will do.

The Toronto Star reports that the price of wine and spirits will not go down on July 1, despite the fact that Ontario will drop its 12 percent tax on alcohol and replace it with the 8 percent Harmonized Sales Tax. In fact, it looks like prices will go up because the LCBO will increase its mark-up on liquor to more than make up for the tax decrease.

Why? According to the article, the LCBO says that it is its “social responsibility” to do so. Apparently, drinking alcohol is still a sin in Ontario. Yes, God forbid that the LCBO pass on the price decrease from the tax change and lower the price of (one example from the Star) Pelee Island VQA Chardonnay from $17.95 to $17.35. Because then we’d be able to buy 29 bottles of the VQA wine instead of 28 for the same price! Instead, the price will go up to $18.05. Yeah, 70 cents more for a bottle of wine…that’ll cure the problem of alcohol abuse.

Or is it that the government looked at the shortfall from replacing the alcohol tax with the HST [yikes!] and told the LCBO to (more than) make up the difference in government revenues by raising prices?  That seems to be the case in BC, which is also introducing the HST on July 1.  OK, but if you're making a revenue grab, don't hide behind the skirts of "social responsibilty". 

One of the strongest arguments made on behalf of the HST is that it will lower the cost of doing business in Ontario and that should mean cheaper prices. As the Star quotes Premier McGuinty, “I’m just saying in a competitive world, you’re going to want to pass along the savings.” Ah, yes, in a competitive world. But having a monopoly? Priceless.

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My Picks: Vintages Release -- May 15

Here’s my shopping list for the Vintages Release on May 15.

The Kentucky Derby takes place in May…and now it’s our turn to have our run for the rosés. The weather is warming up, I've fired up the BBQ, and my swingin’ habitat (the golf course) is open. That’s my spring in Ontario and thoughts also turn to rosé on the patio. They’re the perfect spring/summer wine, flexible in matching with so many foods. This week’s release is the first major rosé rush of the season, and there are some good picks available, one of which is Biodynamic from Ontario.

What do I look for in a rosé? A rosé that has vibrant flavour and crispness, so be sure to always buy the youngest available. With rare exceptions, older rosés will have lost aromas, flavours, and acidity. Most rosés in the LCBO this summer should be 2009 but occasionally some older ones (leftovers from last summer, or worse) will show up on the shelf so beware. I like my rosés as dry as possible (no white zinfandel for me...ugh). Check out the rosés from Spain, especially from Penedes (near Barcelona).

[A note to my Québec readers:  One of my perennial favourites among the rosés is Vin Gris de Cigare Rosé (California) from Bonny Doon Vineyards, which is run by a true pioneer, Randall Grahm.  The rosé is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, and Roussanne; 13.0% ABV.  The 2009 is now in the SAQ stores (#10262979) at $20.90.  Vintages carried this wine for a few years but, regrettably, not lately.]

Organic

TEMPLE BRUER CABERNET/MERLOT 2006, Langhorne Creek (Australia); #165803; Price: $19.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (61%), Merlot (28%) and Cabernet Franc (11%). Aged fifteen months in American oak. Certified as A-Grade Organic by the Australian Certified Organics (ACO). Should be great with BBQ lamb.

Here’s that Biodynamic rosé from Ontario:
SOUTHBROOK CABERNET ROSÉ 2009, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake (Ontario); #168492; Price: $18.95; 12.8% ABV
Certified Biodynamic by Demeter. A blend of Cabernet Franc (76%), Merlot (15%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (11%). 400g (lightweight) bottle! Excellent. Just hate the hokey label.

Off the Beaten Track

Now, 5 more rosés to get your summer going:

DOMAINE LAFAGE PARFUM DE VIGNES ROSÉ 2009, AC Cotes du Roussillon (France); #167528; Price: $14.95; 13.0% ABV
Scent of a Vine. A blend of Syrah (50%), Grenache (40%), and Carignan (10%). My very favourite rosés come from Catalonia, a traditional area that spans the French-Spanish border. Spain ceded the northern part, now called Roussillon, to France in 1659. Try it with some BBQ sausage, or paella.

MUGA ROSÉ 2009, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #603795; Price: $12.95; 13.0% ABV
A Spanish rosé, this one’s from Rioja. A blend of Garnacha (60%) Viura (30%) and Tempranillo (10%). Viura is a white varietal, so they make this rosé by blending red wine and white wine together, a method that the EU has now banned, except for (presumably) traditional production, like Muga. Hmmm, drink a forbidden wine!  [UPDATE]

CHÂTEAU LA TOUR DE L'ÉVÊQUE ROSÉ 2009, AC Cotes de Provence (France); #319392; Price: $18.95; 12.7% ABV
For many, Provence defines classic rosé. A blend of Cinsault (39%), Grenache (28%), Syrah (17%), and some other stuff.

CHÂTEAU D'AQUÉRIA ROSÉ TAVEL 2009, AC Rhone (France); #319368; Price: $18.95; 12.9% ABV
For others, it’s Tavel that’s the classic rosé! Grenache (50%), Clairette (20%), Cinsault (15%), Mourvèdre (10%), and Bourboulenc (5%), all vinified separately, then blended. The Tavel designation is for rosé only. Aquéria is the largest estate of Tavel. Hand harvesting and destemming. Natural yeasts. According to the winemaker, the Grenache lends fruitiness and body; Cinsault, finesse and length in the mouth; Clairette and Bourboulenc, aromas of fruit and flowers; and Mourvèdre, an intense, vibrant color, red fruit aromas and flavours, and longevity. Sounds good to me!  Tasting Note

MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2009, VQA Niagara Escarpment (Ontario); #559088; Price: $15.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Cabernet Franc (86%), Gamay (11.5%), and Pinot Noir (2.5%). From one of my favourite producers, it’s justifiably popular. For once, the herd is right.

Now, 2 whites and 3 reds, including an all-too-rare pick from BC:

ALTA VISTA PREMIUM TORRONTÉS 2008, Cordillera de los Andes (Argentina); #37127; Price: $13.95; 14.0% ABV
The neighbourhood wine for some in Ottawa. No Malolactic Fermentation and no aging in oak. Crisp, the way I like my Torrontés, which could become the signature white of Argentina.

LA JOYA VIOGNIER RESERVE 2008, Colchagua Valley (Chile); #168542; Price: $13.95; 14.3% ABV
A great summer BBQ wine. 100% Viognier. No oak. Look for tree fruit and floral aromas.

QUAILS' GATE PINOT NOIR 2007, VQA Okanagan Valley (British Columbia); #585760; Price: $24.95; 14.0% ABV
Unfortunately, BC wines qualify as “off the beaten track” in Ontario, which is a shame! Quails’ Gate specialises in Pinot Noir. This one is aged in new and used French oak for 11 months. I’m going to try it with the classic BBQ salmon on a cedar plank.

MAS IGNEUS BARRANC DELS CLOSOS 2006, DOCa Priorat (Spain); #166660; Price: $19.95; 15.0% ABV
A blend of Garnacha (80%) and Carinena (20%). Aged 3 months in French oak. Filtered. Mas Igneus pioneered organic viticulture in the Priorat but they're not yet producing this wine from 100% organic grapes.

CAVE DE LA CÔTE GAMARET/GARANOIR 2008, VDP Selection Suisse Romande (Switzerland); #160739; Price: $19.95; 13.3% ABV
OK, hands up…anybody ever heard of Gamaret or Garanoir? I didn’t think so. Me neither. Gamaret is a cross between Gamay and Reichensteiner (huh? it's a white grape developed in Germany in 1939). Garanoir has the same parents but it's a different grape. A Swiss researcher developed both. Sounds like another Pinotage story. Way out of the mainstream, it’s unquestionably worth a try.

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Empty Bladders

The pissing contest between Ottawa Life Magazine (OLM) and the LCBO seems to be (forgive me) petering out. According to OLM’s May issue, the LCBO, regrettably but not surprisingly, has refused to answer questions from OLM about $6 million in management bonuses paid out by the LCBO in 2008, which OLM first raised in its January issue.

Both the LCBO and OLM should climb down off their high horses. The LCBO missed a great chance to show corporate responsibility by answering OLM’s questions. Not doing so certainly leaves the impression that they have something to hide. Mind you, perhaps OLM’s whiny approach and repeated poking of the LCBO in the eye about the bonuses, while demanding a response, has something to do with it.

This time around, OLM has responses on the bonus issue from the Premier’s office (not much comfort for OLM there), and from the Opposition Leader and the NDP Leader. Both Tim Hudak and Andrea Horwath take the opportunity to beat up on the government over financial management in general, but are careful not to be drawn too much into OLM’s obsession over the (relatively) small issue of LCBO’s management bonuses. (OLM certainly tries valiantly to make the connection.) Interestingly, neither Hudak nor Horwath supports privatizing the LCBO. And both want the LCBO to do more to promote Ontario VQA wines. Here! Here!

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Vintages Offers “Eco-Friendly” Wines

Vintages is offering a selection of “eco-friendly” wines from eight producers for phone-order. Order now, with a 50% deposit, for delivery this autumn (yes, six months from now). Ugh. Hey, Vintages, don’t get too far out on that green limb.

The term “eco-friendly” is rather vague and Vintages doesn’t define it in the offer. Of the eight producers, here are three that are biodynamic:

• Domaine Weinbach, Alsace
• Benziger, California
• Southbrook, Niagara

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My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives -- May 5

Here’s my shopping list for this week’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.

What am I looking for? Three things.
Organic: wines certified biodynamic or organic
Off the Beaten Track: lesser-known or underappreciated traditional varietals, unusual blends, or underappreciated regions
Value: good wines at less than $30

Organic

RICHMOND PLAINS PINOT NOIR 2008, Nelson (New Zealand); #160424; 14% ABV; $21
From Nelson, a cool climate region. The winemakers believe that “great wines are made in the vineyard” (yes!) and let the terroir do the talking. Certified Biodynamic by Demeter New Zealand, the first Pinot Noir in New Zealand. Even better, the winery is “carbon negative”: their practices return more carbon to the soil than is released in CO2 emissions in making, packaging, and delivering the wine (at least within New Zealand). Made to drink now. Check out a short news clip on the winery.

Off the Beaten Track

ROCCA DEI LEONI VILLA MATILDE AGLIANICO 2007, IGT Beneventano, Campania (Italy); #165035; 14% ABV; $25
Aglianico is one of the wonderful varietals from southern Italy, typically with black fruit, spices and herbs. Grown at 400 metres in volcanic soil, north of Naples, outside the more traditional Aglianico zone (east of Naples). Aged in stainless steel for 6 months.

VALDIPIATTA VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 2006, DOCG, Tuscany (Italy); #163782; 14% ABV; $25
A blend of Sangiovese (85%) and Canaiolo Nero (15%). Montepulciano ranks way down on most people’s Tuscany lists, after Chianti and Montalcino, which is a mistake. The wine spent 6 months French oak, then 12 more months in 50-hectolitre Slovenian oak casks, followed by 6 months bottling ageing before release.

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Adrift on the Sea of Plonk

One (very small) disadvantage to travelling abroad is that you lose touch with what’s happening back home. So, last autumn, I missed the Ontario government’s announcement of how it wants to encourage Ontario’s grape-growing and wine-producing industries to move away from CIC (Cellared in Canada) wines and towards VQA (Vintner Quality Alliance) wines.

First, some definitions. In Ontario today, “Cellared in Canada” means wines made with at least 30% juice from Ontario-grown grapes. Yes, that means that these “Canada” wines have up to 70% juice from foreign grapes. “Cellared in Canada” is misleading, cleverly and deliberately so. In contrast, VQA wines have 100% juice from Ontario-grown grapes.

To shift Ontario production more towards VQA wines, the government (along with the Wine Council of Ontario) wants to persuade Ontario consumers to drink more VQA wines. How? Through a mix of:

• Feel-good promotion (Rah! Rah! VQA! Taste a better wine today!)
• Reduce barriers so that more VQA producers can sell more wine through the LCBO (long overdue), partly through a 30% rebate back to VQA producers on wine sold through the LCBO  [May 5:  Here's another thought.  Why not give the consumer some of that 30% rebate off the retail price?]
• Increase the tax on CIC wines

The government says it will use the higher tax on CIC wines to fund its promotion of VQA wines, making the program revenue-neutral. But really, at this point, should the poor consumer have to pay higher taxes on any wine sold in Ontario?

One assumption in this approach is that Ontario consumers are buying CIC wines instead of VQA wines. Does this make sense? Not to me. CIC wines are inexpensive (<$10), lower quality wines…plonk that gets you drunk cheaply, which is why some folks drink wine. VQA wines at least aspire to be something more, to reflect the character of the grape grown in Ontario terroir, as interpreted by the Ontario winemaker. For a CIC drinker, the next best choice isn’t a premium VQA wine, it’s cheap imported plonk. Let’s not kid ourselves. Educating Ontario consumers about VQA wines is laudable, but government and industry should aim those efforts at Ontario’s buyers of imported premium wines, not buyers of CIC wines.

Now, the possible exception to this perspective is the CIC drinker who wants to support Ontario wines and thinks that a “Cellared in Canada” wine is an Ontario wine. Yes, I’ve met many consumers who think that CIC wine is Ontario wine. I have nothing against Ontario producers importing cheap juice and bottling low-end wines. It’s something that’s done in many other wine regions. But call it what it is. Another new government priority is “ensuring clearer labelling and signage for all Ontario wines.” If this means the abolition of the designation, “Cellared in Canada”, then bravo! It’s overdue, as is ending tax breaks for CIC producers.

So, the Ontario government gets a "tip of the hat" for promoting VQA wines and helping more VQA wine producers get their wines into the LCBO, and a "wag of the finger" for raising taxes on CIC wines. I'm still waiting on the abolition of “Cellared in Canada”.

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