Another '07 in Niagara?

Decanter reports that the harvest has started in Niagara, a month ahead of 2009, and the earliest in more than 20 years.  Could be another great year!  Fingers crossed for a sunny September.




BTW, looking for my wine picks for this week?  Well, usually the new releases from Vintages' Online Exclusives come out on Wednesdays but nothing so far...    

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Grand, Just Grand

It’s an accepted wisdom that, for most consumers, wine labels are difficult to decipher. What makes them so difficult? Different languages and inconsistency between regional practices. Inconsistent how? Each region has its own customs or regulations on what information should be on the label, where they put the information on the label, and what it means. Beyond that, many regions have their own classification methods, many of which are similar in name, but not what that name means. For example, Grand Cru in Burgundy is the top of the heap. Same in Champagne. In Bordeaux, Grand Cru means very little. Grand Cru Classé, however, in St-Emilion is the second highest in prestige, and Premier Grand Cru Classé is the top. But Premier Cru in Burgundy is the second highest ranking. Confused?

Many regions have tried to simplify their labels, making it easier to figure out what everything means. The latest effort comes from one of my favourite regions, Languedoc in the south of France.

Right now, Languedoc has twelve Appellation Contrôlée (AC), which the French governing body (INAO) grants. These twelve appellations are based on the concept of terroir, and identify wines that come from a specific place and made in a specific way. The 12 AC are:

• Cabardès
• Clairette du Languedoc
• Corbières
• Corbières-Boutenac
• Faugères
• Languedoc (formerly Coteaux du Languedoc)
• Limoux
• Malepère
• Minervois
• Minervois la Livinière
• Muscats
• Saint-Chinian

Outside of these 12 AC, Languedoc wines are designated as Vins de Pays or, more recently, as IGP (Indication Geographic Protégée).

What’s the change?

The top wine areas within Languedoc will now have additional designations, either Grand Cru du Languedoc or Grand Vin du Languedoc. (OK, first question. If you’re trying to simplify things for the consumer, why choose two names that seem so similar? Perhaps to mollify the producers in the second group?). According to the regional wine council, they awarded these designations according to the wines' economic value. The market has spoken! The Grand Crus are:

• Minervois La Livinière
• Corbières-Boutenac
• Grès de Montpellier
• Pic Saint Loup
• Saint-Chinian Roquebrun
• Pézenas
• Terrasses du Larzac
• La Clape
• Limoux (still wines only)

The areas in next level down (Grand Vins du Languedoc) are:

• Minervois
• Corbières
• Limoux (sparkling wines)
• Faugères
• Malepère
• Cabardès
• Saint-Chinian
• Muscats
• Picpoul de Pinet

(Boy, the folks in AC Clairette du Languedoc, which didn’t make either group, must be unhappy.)

All these wines must still comply with the relevant AC regulations. Wines outside these areas that comply with the AC regulations can still use the AC Languedoc designation. In the meantime, some of the Grand Crus are also pursuing their own AC designations.

What’s the idea? The thinking is that, when it comes to shopping for the best Languedoc wines, consumers only have to remember 3 designations: Grand Cru, Grand Vin, or AC Languedoc. Hmmm…how long before some Languedoc producers start putting “Grand” in the name of their wine? Start up the marketing machine!

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At the End of a Bad Day?

Checking out paper shredding services, I came across this description on a local company's website:

The Walk-in Service: 
This is a service where you can present yourself at our Ottawa facility for
immediate destruction.

Hmmm... think I'll just have an extra glass of Tempranillo instead, thanks.

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Vegetarian Wines

My sister, Jane, who lives out on the Wet Coast…not wet enough these days…sent me this short article from BC Living about vegetarian wine, which includes a list of some of the BC wineries that make vegetarian wines.

As the article points out, winemakers often use animal products in fining (clarifying) wines. Although the products themselves don’t become part of the wine in any significant quantities, many vegetarians and vegans prefer to avoid wines made with these products. (By the way, if you’re appalled that you don’t know that winemakers use animal products in making wine, then you don’t know the half of wine manipulation.)

If you’re avoiding animal products in the making of wines and you don’t have ready access to those BC wines listed in the article, you have a few options.

Look for the words “unfined” on the back label of the bottles in your local store, which simply means that the winemaker hasn't clarified the wine. (Of course, this also means that your wine might be a bit cloudy, as the point of fining is to remove stuff that will otherwise float around in the wine.)

Another option is to look for wines fined using bentonite, but I have never seen that disclosed on a label.

As the article states, in Australia and New Zealand, winemakers who use isinglass (made from fish), casein (made from milk), or egg whites (made from…well, you know) must disclose this on the label as an allergenic substance, so that region’s wines may be your first stop at the store.

Finally, winemakers generally use fining with everyday – a euphemism for cheaper – wines but less often with fine – a euphemism for expensive – wines, simply because fine wines take longer to make; the molecules precipitate and can be removed without fining agents.

In my upcoming wine picks, I'll keep an eye out for wines that qualify as "vegetarian".

By the way, the “natural” wine aficionados believe that unfined wines simply taste better because fining strips some of the flavours from the wine. A minority view, but à chacun ses gouts.

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Languedoc Tastings

Notes on some wines tasted (well, more than just tasted) in Languedoc:

Chateau de Mauvanne Rosé 2009, AC Cotes de Provence; 13.5% ABV

A medium coral colour so typical of a Provençal rose. Red fruit aromas, some floral notes with a bit of pepper. The flavour is cherry.  Very refreshing acidity. Medium-bodied. Nicely balanced with a medium length. I’m guessing it’s mostly Grenache with Cinsault.  What a rosé should be.

Le Castellet Rosé 2009, AC Bandol; 14% ABV

A no-name rosé that trades on the caché of the Bandol name. Disappointing. If you like Miller Lite, you’ll like this. Little fruit or acidity. Does that make it well-balanced?

Clos Marie L’Olivette - Pic St Loup 2008, AC Coteaux du Languedoc; 13.5% ABV

A blend of Grenache (52%), Syrah (48%) and Mourvèdre (2%). Aromas of blackberry and cassis, Garrigue (dried herbs), spices, liquorice, leather, and…black olives! Flavours of blackberry and, yes, those black olives. Medium-high tannins and medium acidity. Good length. Delicious!

Divine Justine Rosé 2009, IGP Vins du Pays du Rhone
A blend of Caladou (a cross between Grenache and Cot…aka Malbec), Merlot, and Cabernet. Aromas and flavours of strawberry and cherry. Very refreshing. Made by the Maison de Sade. As in the Marquis de Sade. (IGP means Indication Geographic Protégée, a EU designation that seems to becoming popular with winemakers whose wines don’t qualify for Appellation Contrôlée status.)

Domaine la Colombette 2006, Vin de Pays des Coteaux du Libron (Languedoc); 13% ABV
Aromas and flavours of raspberries, Garrigue, and spices. Both acidity and tannin are very soft and supple. 100% Lladoner Pelut, a Catalan clone of Grenache. Medium finish.

Ermitage du Pic St Loup - Cuvée Sainte Agnès Blanc 2008, AC Languedoc; 12.88% ABV
We tried their red, now here’s their white. Aromas of citrus and quince, white flowers, almonds, and hazelnuts. The fruit flavours dominate on the palate. Medium acidity; smooth mouthfeel. Very good; we like these guys. A blend of Roussanne (50%), Clairette (20%), Marsanne (15%), and Grenache Blanc (15%).

Grand Enclos de Riffat 1994, AC Pomerol; 12% ABV
Interesting. Bricky ruby in colour. Faded aromas of cassis and blackberry, supplanted by cedar and pencil shavings, as well some spices. The fruit comes through more on the flavour but is short on the finish. Soft tannins and medium acidity. Light-bodied by today’s measures. Very supple.  Thanks, Bob!





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My Picks: Vintages Release -- August 21

A couple of focal points for this release: Iconic Varietals from the New World, and Germany. Another disappointing release of German wines. None of the wonderful bone-dry German Rieslings. It’s a bit of a Catch-22: I'm guessing that Vintages doesn’t order any of those great German Rieslings because they don’t sell…but they don’t sell because Vintages doesn’t order any. Hey, but Vintages is doing a better job of bringing in whites from the Loire (but not enough reds), so there’s hope. On to the picks…

Organic

EMILIANA ADOBE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Central Valley (Chile); #169946; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile’s leading organic producer, Emiliana, part of the Concha y Toro family.  (Emiliana was the wife of Don Melchor Concha y Toro.)  From the Central Valley, a rather large region with many sub-regions, south of Santiago, with a Mediterranean climate (hot, dry, sunny summers; cool rainy winters). Just 20% aged in French and American oak for 6 months. Good value.

Off the Beaten Track 

White

WILDASS WHITE 2006, VQA Niagara Peninsula (Ontario); #85100; Price: $17.95; 12.5% ABV
Wildass: the second wine of Stratus. A kitchen sink blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling. Each wine is aged individually for 2 years in French oak, then blended. Surprisingly good.

Rosé

CARTE NOIRE ROSÉ 2009, AC Cotes de Provence (France); #319384; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV
Do you know the way to St Tropez? A blend of Grenache (90%) and Cinsault (10%). Method Saignée (some juice is bled off early during maceration; that juice becomes rosé, the rest goes on to become red wine). A classic rosé offering from Provence.

Reds

Thinking of some grilled lamb for dinner? Here are 4 candidates to match:

LAMMERSHOEK PINOTAGE 2007, WO Swartland (South Africa); #954594; Price: $18.95; 14.5% ABV
100% Pinotage, the “iconic varietal” of South Africa. Developed there, it’s a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (known in SA as Hermitage). Now, who doesn’t like Pinotage? Oh yeah?  Well, check out what you're missing. Handpicked and hand-sorted. Fermentation in open concrete tanks, then Malolactic fermentation. Aged in French oak barrels (20% new) for 12 months. Unfiltered. Lammershoek is converting this vineyard to organic; they’ve already stopped using chemical fertilizers.

DOMAINE DE PARAZA CUVÉE SPECIALE 2007, Minervois (Languedoc, France); #178467; Price: $13.95; 14.0% ABV
A blend of Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%), and Mourvèdre (20%) from one of the Languedoc ACs. Carbonic maceration, so fruit forward.  Drink up!

LE FERME DU MONT LE PONNANT 2007, AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages; #171371; Price: $17.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (60%) and Syrah (40%). Fermented for 5 weeks. Aged in concrete tubs! Another wine for drinking now.

PERRIN & FILS L'ANDÉOL RASTEAU 2007, AC Cotes du Rhone-Villages (France); #976845; Price: $19.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (80%) and Syrah (20%). From the producers of Beaucastel, one of the best in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. And a great vintage too. Aged 90% in stainless steel, 10% in oak, then 6 months in bottle.

JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA JOSÉ DE SOUSA 2006, Vinho Regional Alentejano (Portugal); #396689; Price: $14.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Trincadeira (33%), Aragónez (aka Tempranillo…22%) and Gran Negro (45%), the last one is a rarity. Fermented 5% in clay pots (clay pots…concrete tubs…is there another theme is this release?) as well as 95% in stainless steel tanks. Aged in new (30%) and one-year-old (70%) American and French oak, then nine more months in bottle. José de Sousa was a legendary winemaker in Alentejo. Ready to drink now or save it for this winter with some braised beef.

BURGO VIEJO CRIANZA 2005, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #168815; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
A traditional blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented in stainless steel vats; aged in American oak for 12 months. If you like the classic (and increasingly hard-to-find) Rioja style, as I do, then this is for you. Perfect with a grilled steak.

CLOS MIMI PETITE ROUSSE SYRAH 2006, Paso Robles (California); #186221; Price: $27.95; 15.0% ABV
100% Syrah, grown in a hot, hot region of Central California. The winemaker (Tim Spear) uses the Biodynamic calendar. Aged 16 months in neutral French oak barrels (used more than 3 times). Throughout the winemaking process, to improve this wine’s “chi”, the winemaker played – 24 hours a day – classical music, opera, Gregorian chant and Chinese meditation music in a cellar designed according to feng shui principles. Unfiltered, too, of course. Bottled on the first day of spring in 2008, which coincided with the full moon. Did I mention this wine is from California?

And a Sparkling...

BERNARD-MASSARD CUVÉE DE L'ÉCUSSON BRUT SPARKLING WINE, Luxembourg; #970970; Price: $16.95; 12.0% ABV
Luxembourg? Yes, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, on the banks of the Mosel river, tucked in between Belgium, Germany and France.  Bought a car there once.  The wine?  Made in the traditional method, like Champagne. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Noir. Ideal aperitif when having friends over…to celebrate having friends over.

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Tell Us What You Really Think...

Decanter reports that Russia's chief sanitary official, Gennady Onishchenko, claims that "Moldovan wine should be used to paint fences." 

Is that the red or the white?



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GREATWALL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1996

I was down at Vintages this morning, picking up a few bottles, when I came across several bottles of this:

GREATWALL CABERNET SAUVIGNON 1996, China; #133421; Price: $12.95; 12.5% ABV

I've been anxious to try a wine from China, which is often touted as the next big wine region, if you're looking out a generation or two.

The Product Consultant didn't know too much about it. The on-line listing doesn't show a release date, so this seems to have snuck its way onto the shelves.

I gave it a pass (a 14-year old wine from China?) but if anyone else out there has tried it, let us know.

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My Picks: Vintages On-Line Exclusives -- August 11, 2010

Here’s my shopping list for this week’s Vintages On-Line Exclusives Release.

Nothing Biodynamic this week.

In the latest Vintages in-store release, I picked a wine from Lebanon. Now, this week, we have two wines from an Israeli winery, Clos de Gat. Clos de Gat is in the Judean foothills, just outside Jerusalem, where there’s a history of winemaking dating back 3000 years. Now that’s Old World! But the winemaker learned his craft in Australia, so there’s New World techniques brought to bear.

Being a fan of obscure varietals, I don’t often pick the BIG varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. But it’s worth seeing what a (so far) obscure wine region is doing.

CLOS DE GAT HAR'EL VINEYARDS MERLOT 2008, Judean Hills (Israel); #183020; 13% ABV; $29
100% Merlot. Handpicked grapes. Fermented with natural yeasts. Aged 14 months in 30% new French oak. Unfiltered. Of course, Israel is a Mediterranean country, so try this with foods that you’d match to wines from Spain, Languedoc, or southern Italy, such as grilled meats.

CLOS DU GAT HAR'EL VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Judean Hills (Israel); #183038; 14% ABV; $29
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (87%), Merlot (9%), and Petit Verdot (4%). Handpicked. Fermented with natural yeasts. Aged 12 months 30% new French oak. Unfiltered.

MARCHESI PANCRAZI COLORINO CASAGLIA 2005; IGT Rosso Toscana (Italy); #109595; 13% ABV; $29
100% Colorino, more often used as a blending varietal with Sangiovese, adding colour and tannins. Aged 12 months in barrel, then 6 months in bottle before release. Expect a big, tannic wine; try it with a grilled bavette.

VINOSIA TAURASI 2004, DOCG Taurasi (Campania, Italy); #172692; 14% ABV; $25
100% Aglianico, introduced to southern Italy by the Ancient Greeks. It’s one of my favourite varietals from southern Italy. The winemakers claim to put “a modern spin on native varieties”. Hmmm. Handpicked. Partially fermented with natural yeasts in French oak, then aged in French oak for 14 months. Maybe over-oaked?  Let's find out.

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Car!

As I wrote last year, the drivers of Montpellier horrify intrigue me.

France’s love affair with the car is as strong as Canada’s. The French have just as many cars per capita as we do. Like Ottawa, rush hour in and out of Montpellier features car after car after car, bumper to bumper, with just one person, alone in their tiny rolling kingdom. (Like Canada, public transit in Montpellier seems relegated to the poor and the young, or the green.)

In Montpellier itself, with its narrow streets, small cars moving unpredictably from one skinny lane to another, motorcycles squeezing in the tiny spaces between the lines of cars...every time I get out of the car in France safely, I feel I’ve cheated death, or at least, the inconvenience of an insurance claim.  It’s a fluid dance of danger. Or so it seems. Yet in the six weeks in Montpellier, on the road to somewhere almost every day, not once did I see a collision in all this seeming chaos. Here’s something else I didn’t see once in those six weeks: a driver holding a cell phone while driving. Yes, it’s illegal in France to use a handheld cell while driving. But it’s also illegal in Ontario and fat lot of good it’s done us here.  (Honest, Officer, I always drive with my hand up to my ear.)

It got me thinking. Is there something counter-intuitive here? Could it be that the demands of more dangerous driving conditions – narrow roads, denser traffic, less respect for what Canadians view as the normal conventions of driving – lead to safer drivers? Does the focus that driving requires in Montpellier mean that everyone is paying more attention?  Simply because they have to?  

In Canada, do our oh-so-wide roads and comparatively sparse traffic circulation lull us into a false sense of security? Talking on the phone while driving – or any of the other myriad distractions that Canadian drivers indulge in – doesn’t seem like much, because driving is so uncomplicated. We add complexity to a simple task, which works…until something unexpected happens.

Interestingly, France has fewer car collisions reported than Canada does (not counting all those parking dings), but France has more injuries and deaths from its collisions. So when something goes wrong in France, it goes very wrong. Or perhaps Canada isn’t the only country that has “unreported crimes”?

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Le Jardin des Sens

Coming twice to Languedoc in the past year, you’d think that our list of “Things to Do / People to See in Languedoc” would become shorter.  Au contraire!  We add more to the list all the time, and bump some things further down.  Like going for dinner at Le Jardin des Sens.  (Note to Ottawa hockey fans:  Le Jardin des Sens is not where local hockey players hang out in the off-season.)  JDS is a Michelin 2-star (“worth a detour”) restaurant, right in Montpellier, about a 10-minute walk from our apartment.  The Pourcel twins, Jacques and Laurent, who focus on Mediterranean cuisine, run it.  Although focus may not be the right word.  The Pourcel brothers follow the conglomerate chef model made famous by the likes of Alain Ducasse, Gordon Ramsey, et al:  13 restaurants in France, Japan, Thailand, Morocco, Algeria…a wine store, many books, cooking workshops…Thank God, there’s 2 of them.   

But dinner at JDS suddenly jumped right to the top of our list when Michèle received a very generous birthday gift:  a voucher for dinner for two – yay! – from Bob (her brother) and Nathalie.  WOW!  Luckily, we snag a reservation for the following Monday evening. 

From the outside, the restaurant looks quite ordinary, sitting on the corner of a busy street.  (Maybe it’s just me but the French seem to put very little emphasis on building exteriors.  Is this a property tax dodge?)  But the interior reception area is modern and subdued.  The reception itself is oh so cool.  Escorted out into the garden for an aperitif, the almost instantaneous transformation from the hustle and bustle of the hot Montpellier streets into the coolness of a tranquil garden, in just 30 or so short steps, is striking.  We take our favourite local aperitif, a glass of the Picpoul de Pinet.  A glass of wine, some appetizers, a quiet garden, this is the definition of an oasis.

Finishing our aperitif, we move into the dining room.  It’s Monday evening and it’s full.  The dining room is a high-ceilinged glass cube surrounded on 3 sides by the garden and a waterfall.  Very modern.

For the first course, Michèle takes Les petites ravioles de foie gras de canard aux cèpes et parmesan, purée de petits artichauts violets, bouillon de volaille au fumet de cèpes, chips d’artichauts.  (Little ravioli of foie gras with cèpes and Parmesan, purée of purple artichoke, chicken stock flavoured with cèpes, artichoke crisps.)  Foie gras, cèpes...it's a winner.

For me, it’s La composition autour de l’huître : en croquette au tourteau, crue au citron, caviar et pamplemousse, en tartare et granité de pomme verte.  (Oyster medley: with crab in a crispy croquette, raw with lemon, caviar and grapefruit, tartare and green apple granité)  Oysters are a regional specialty and you don’t often see them treated with the kind of imagination shown here.  But I am mystified that they haven't separated the oysters from their shell.  Is this to assure the client that the restaurant hasn’t slid some cheap oyster into an expensive shell?  My utensils are about a foot long and the knife is as dull as an accounting convention.  Much wrestling with the oysters ensues.  Messieurs Pourcel, you missed the mark on this one.

With the first course, Michèle and I each have a glass of a 2008 Viognier from Languedoc, which the sommelier recommends with both dishes, not that he has much choice.  (The wine list is comprehensive but it’s almost exclusively in bottle format; just 3 white wines by the glass are available.)  Aromas of grapefruit, almond, and white flowers.  Citrus fruit on the palate, with a pleasantly bitter finish.  Medium-bodied and medium acidity.  But not a great match with either dish.

On to the main course.  My choice is Le filet de bœuf Charolais en brochette aux cèpes, grillée minute, croustillant de pommes de terre au confit d’oignons doux, jus au vin de passion.  (Fillet of lightly grilled Charolais beef on a skewer with cèpes, grilled à la minute, crispy potatoes with caramelised sweet onions, stock with passion fruit wine)  Delicious.

Michèle takes La fine tarte de confit de lapin aux noisettes, escalope de foie gras poêlée, filet de lapin rôti, son jus en vinaigrette tiède, salade de saison et compotée de poire à la vanille. (Fine tart of rabbit confit and hazelnuts, sliced warm foie gras, quick pan-fried fillet of rabbit, vinaigrette with roast meat jus, seasonal salad and stewed pear in vanilla)  More foie gras.  Michèle uses her highest compliment:  decadent!

Dismissing the sommelier, I choose the Ermitage du Pic St. Loup Cuvée Ste Agnes 2007, AC Pic St Loup (Languedoc).  A blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre.  Still a bit young, aromas of cassis, plum and lots of Garrigue (dried herbs), then spices, and liquorice.  The black fruit dominates on the palate, a bit of minerality.  Medium acidity and young tannins.  Great with the beef, perhaps a bit too heavy for the rabbit.

The portions are generous, so we pass on dessert, knowing that some sweet goodies will come our way…and they do.

Merci, Bob & Nat, for a wonderful evening!!!

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My Picks: Vintages Release -- August 7, 2010

Here’s my shopping list for the Vintages Release on August 7.  

Lots of interesting stuff this week.  The main theme is Central and Southern Italy, one of my favourite regions simply because it's a treasure trove of lesser-known varietals.  Quite a few (7) organic wines as well, although not all are worthy of your consideration.  Two Canadian Pinot Gris (Pinot Grises? Pinots Gris?)  Even the rarest of the rare here in Ontario:  2 wines from BC!

Organic

SOUTHBROOK FRESH WHITE 2009, VQA Ontario; #185462; Price: $16.95; 9.7% ABV

100% Vidal, here’s a very light crisp white that’s made for quenching your thirst on the patio on a hot day.  Certified Biodynamic.  Fermented in stainless steel.  Lightweight bottle (400 g) so the winemaker has all her bases covered.

EMILIANA NOVAS LIMITED SELECTION CHARDONNAY 2008, Casablanca Valley (Chile); #4515; Price: $14.95; 14.0% ABV

100% Chardonnay from Chile’s leading organic producer.  Aged 5 months, 70% in French oak and 30% in stainless steel.  Definitely worth trying.

LOAN SEMILLON 2006, Barossa Valley (Australia); #108092; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV

The winemakers say that, “Sustainability is fundamental to our philosophy”.  It shows up in hand-managed vineyards, certified organic growing and production, dry farming, and a belief in terroir.  Aged 10 months in old French oak, then bottle-aged for another year before release.  Aussie Semillon typically shows more fruit and floral aromas.  Take out a Loan!

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

GRAY MONK PINOT GRIS 2008, VQA Okanagan Valley (British Columbia); #118638; Price: $19.95; 13.6% ABV

Move up from Pinot Grigio!  100% Pinot Gris, fermented in stainless steel.  Gray Monk was the first BC winery I visited, on a trip there way back in the late 80s.  Even then, they were famous for their Pinot Gris.  Find out why.

PALA CRABILIS I FIORI 2009, DOC VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA (Italy); #52068; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Vermentino, a Spanish varietal found around the Mediterranean coast; I even came across it in Languedoc.  Fermented in stainless steel.  Crabilis means “ancient goat shelter” in the Sardinian dialect.  Not the most marketable name in the English-speaking world, so perhaps that’s why this is the last vintage to carry the name.  Not surprisingly, it’s perfect with all kinds of seafood.

Next up is the one rosé chosen from this week's list, but I previously recommended MALIVOIRE LADYBUG ROSÉ 2009 back in May and it's re-released this week.

CHÂTEAU ROUTAS ROUVIÈRE ROSÉ 2009, AC Coteaux Varois en Provence (France); #739128; Price: $14.95; 12.7% ABV

A blend of Cinsault (55%), Syrah (23%), Grenache (14%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (8%).  Hand-harvested, they fermented the Syrah and half of the Cabernet Sauvignon in old barrels (>3 years old) with the remaining Grenache and Cinsault fermented in stainless steel tanks.  The two different lots are aged separately for five months and then blended for bottling.  Owned by a Scot, och, but the winemaker’s from Chablis and trained at one of Provence’s premier makers of rosé (Domaine Ott).  And 2009 was a fabulous year in Provence.

Reds

INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN RESERVE PINOT NOIR 2008, VQA Okanagan Valley (British Columbia); #183541; Price: $18.95; 14.0% ABV

The other Inniskillin.  The Okanagan is at the northern tip of the Sonoran desert, it’s dry, dry, dry and cool.  They age this Pinot Noir for 4 months in French oak.  Hmmm…maybe with cedar-plank Pacific salmon?

RAVENSWOOD VINTNERS BLEND PETITE SIRAH 2007, California; #161554; Price: $17.95; 13.5% ABV

Repeat after me:  Petite Sirah is neither Syrah, nor petite.  Often used in blending to add some oomph to other varietals.  A shame, though, because it’s a nicely tannic wine that matches up beautifully with a grilled steak.  Or, when it’s just slightly chilled, it’s great with spicy foods, especially at this relatively low alcohol level (compared to Ravenswood’s more famous varietal, Zinfandel).  With the Petite Sirah (84%), they toss in Syrah (13%) and something amusingly known as “Mixed Blacks” (3%), an old Sonoma County term for an undefined blend of black-skinned varietals.  Fermented for 15 days, then aged in new and used French oak for 18 months.  But definitely a wine to drink with food.

STOLPMAN ESTATE SYRAH 2007, Santa Ynez Valley (California); #185264; Price: $32.95; 14.5% ABV

An intentional homage to Cote Rotie, with a blend of Syrah (95%) and Viognier (5%).  They use no herbicides, fungicides, or pesticides in the vineyard.  It’s not Pinot, but Miles would approve.

BISCEGLIA TERRE DI VULCANO 2007, DOC AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE; #106302; Price: $14.95; 13.7% ABV

100% Aglianico (brought to Italy by the Ancient Greeks) from another new winery in Basilicata.  Aged in stainless steel for 12 months.  A real bargain.  Made to drink now, try it with pasta ragu.  Certified by the Ethical and Environmental Certification Institute for its practices in "environmental protection, workers’ dignity, and collective rights".

GIUSTI PIERGIOVANNI 2008, DOC LACRIMA DI MORRO D'ALBA, Marche (Italy); #180273; Price: $17.95; 13.0% ABV

100% Lacrima di Morro d’Alba!  I love it when I come across a varietal that I’ve never heard of before.  Italian, of course, and grown only in this region.  Fermented in stainless steel, then aged 4 months in oak and 3 more months in bottle.

CHÂTEAU KSARA RÉSERVE DU COUVENT 2007, Bekaa Valley (Lebanon); #443721; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV

A winery founded by the Jesuits, now modernized (the winery, not the Jesuits).  This wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc.  When did you last have a wine from Lebanon?  Worth a try!

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