My Picks: Vintages Release -- August 21

A couple of focal points for this release: Iconic Varietals from the New World, and Germany. Another disappointing release of German wines. None of the wonderful bone-dry German Rieslings. It’s a bit of a Catch-22: I'm guessing that Vintages doesn’t order any of those great German Rieslings because they don’t sell…but they don’t sell because Vintages doesn’t order any. Hey, but Vintages is doing a better job of bringing in whites from the Loire (but not enough reds), so there’s hope. On to the picks…

Organic

EMILIANA ADOBE CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2008, Central Valley (Chile); #169946; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile’s leading organic producer, Emiliana, part of the Concha y Toro family.  (Emiliana was the wife of Don Melchor Concha y Toro.)  From the Central Valley, a rather large region with many sub-regions, south of Santiago, with a Mediterranean climate (hot, dry, sunny summers; cool rainy winters). Just 20% aged in French and American oak for 6 months. Good value.

Off the Beaten Track 

White

WILDASS WHITE 2006, VQA Niagara Peninsula (Ontario); #85100; Price: $17.95; 12.5% ABV
Wildass: the second wine of Stratus. A kitchen sink blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling. Each wine is aged individually for 2 years in French oak, then blended. Surprisingly good.

Rosé

CARTE NOIRE ROSÉ 2009, AC Cotes de Provence (France); #319384; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV
Do you know the way to St Tropez? A blend of Grenache (90%) and Cinsault (10%). Method Saignée (some juice is bled off early during maceration; that juice becomes rosé, the rest goes on to become red wine). A classic rosé offering from Provence.

Reds

Thinking of some grilled lamb for dinner? Here are 4 candidates to match:

LAMMERSHOEK PINOTAGE 2007, WO Swartland (South Africa); #954594; Price: $18.95; 14.5% ABV
100% Pinotage, the “iconic varietal” of South Africa. Developed there, it’s a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault (known in SA as Hermitage). Now, who doesn’t like Pinotage? Oh yeah?  Well, check out what you're missing. Handpicked and hand-sorted. Fermentation in open concrete tanks, then Malolactic fermentation. Aged in French oak barrels (20% new) for 12 months. Unfiltered. Lammershoek is converting this vineyard to organic; they’ve already stopped using chemical fertilizers.

DOMAINE DE PARAZA CUVÉE SPECIALE 2007, Minervois (Languedoc, France); #178467; Price: $13.95; 14.0% ABV
A blend of Syrah (40%), Grenache (40%), and Mourvèdre (20%) from one of the Languedoc ACs. Carbonic maceration, so fruit forward.  Drink up!

LE FERME DU MONT LE PONNANT 2007, AC Côtes du Rhône-Villages; #171371; Price: $17.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (60%) and Syrah (40%). Fermented for 5 weeks. Aged in concrete tubs! Another wine for drinking now.

PERRIN & FILS L'ANDÉOL RASTEAU 2007, AC Cotes du Rhone-Villages (France); #976845; Price: $19.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Grenache (80%) and Syrah (20%). From the producers of Beaucastel, one of the best in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. And a great vintage too. Aged 90% in stainless steel, 10% in oak, then 6 months in bottle.

JOSÉ MARIA DA FONSECA JOSÉ DE SOUSA 2006, Vinho Regional Alentejano (Portugal); #396689; Price: $14.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Trincadeira (33%), Aragónez (aka Tempranillo…22%) and Gran Negro (45%), the last one is a rarity. Fermented 5% in clay pots (clay pots…concrete tubs…is there another theme is this release?) as well as 95% in stainless steel tanks. Aged in new (30%) and one-year-old (70%) American and French oak, then nine more months in bottle. José de Sousa was a legendary winemaker in Alentejo. Ready to drink now or save it for this winter with some braised beef.

BURGO VIEJO CRIANZA 2005, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #168815; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV
A traditional blend of Tempranillo (90%) and Graciano (10%). Fermented in stainless steel vats; aged in American oak for 12 months. If you like the classic (and increasingly hard-to-find) Rioja style, as I do, then this is for you. Perfect with a grilled steak.

CLOS MIMI PETITE ROUSSE SYRAH 2006, Paso Robles (California); #186221; Price: $27.95; 15.0% ABV
100% Syrah, grown in a hot, hot region of Central California. The winemaker (Tim Spear) uses the Biodynamic calendar. Aged 16 months in neutral French oak barrels (used more than 3 times). Throughout the winemaking process, to improve this wine’s “chi”, the winemaker played – 24 hours a day – classical music, opera, Gregorian chant and Chinese meditation music in a cellar designed according to feng shui principles. Unfiltered, too, of course. Bottled on the first day of spring in 2008, which coincided with the full moon. Did I mention this wine is from California?

And a Sparkling...

BERNARD-MASSARD CUVÉE DE L'ÉCUSSON BRUT SPARKLING WINE, Luxembourg; #970970; Price: $16.95; 12.0% ABV
Luxembourg? Yes, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, on the banks of the Mosel river, tucked in between Belgium, Germany and France.  Bought a car there once.  The wine?  Made in the traditional method, like Champagne. It’s a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Noir. Ideal aperitif when having friends over…to celebrate having friends over.

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