Grand, Just Grand

It’s an accepted wisdom that, for most consumers, wine labels are difficult to decipher. What makes them so difficult? Different languages and inconsistency between regional practices. Inconsistent how? Each region has its own customs or regulations on what information should be on the label, where they put the information on the label, and what it means. Beyond that, many regions have their own classification methods, many of which are similar in name, but not what that name means. For example, Grand Cru in Burgundy is the top of the heap. Same in Champagne. In Bordeaux, Grand Cru means very little. Grand Cru Classé, however, in St-Emilion is the second highest in prestige, and Premier Grand Cru Classé is the top. But Premier Cru in Burgundy is the second highest ranking. Confused?

Many regions have tried to simplify their labels, making it easier to figure out what everything means. The latest effort comes from one of my favourite regions, Languedoc in the south of France.

Right now, Languedoc has twelve Appellation Contrôlée (AC), which the French governing body (INAO) grants. These twelve appellations are based on the concept of terroir, and identify wines that come from a specific place and made in a specific way. The 12 AC are:

• Cabardès
• Clairette du Languedoc
• Corbières
• Corbières-Boutenac
• Faugères
• Languedoc (formerly Coteaux du Languedoc)
• Limoux
• Malepère
• Minervois
• Minervois la Livinière
• Muscats
• Saint-Chinian

Outside of these 12 AC, Languedoc wines are designated as Vins de Pays or, more recently, as IGP (Indication Geographic Protégée).

What’s the change?

The top wine areas within Languedoc will now have additional designations, either Grand Cru du Languedoc or Grand Vin du Languedoc. (OK, first question. If you’re trying to simplify things for the consumer, why choose two names that seem so similar? Perhaps to mollify the producers in the second group?). According to the regional wine council, they awarded these designations according to the wines' economic value. The market has spoken! The Grand Crus are:

• Minervois La Livinière
• Corbières-Boutenac
• Grès de Montpellier
• Pic Saint Loup
• Saint-Chinian Roquebrun
• Pézenas
• Terrasses du Larzac
• La Clape
• Limoux (still wines only)

The areas in next level down (Grand Vins du Languedoc) are:

• Minervois
• Corbières
• Limoux (sparkling wines)
• Faugères
• Malepère
• Cabardès
• Saint-Chinian
• Muscats
• Picpoul de Pinet

(Boy, the folks in AC Clairette du Languedoc, which didn’t make either group, must be unhappy.)

All these wines must still comply with the relevant AC regulations. Wines outside these areas that comply with the AC regulations can still use the AC Languedoc designation. In the meantime, some of the Grand Crus are also pursuing their own AC designations.

What’s the idea? The thinking is that, when it comes to shopping for the best Languedoc wines, consumers only have to remember 3 designations: Grand Cru, Grand Vin, or AC Languedoc. Hmmm…how long before some Languedoc producers start putting “Grand” in the name of their wine? Start up the marketing machine!

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