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Thanks to Decanter, I recently came across Vinopic, an online UK wine retailer and its Intrinsic Quotient for rating red wines.

What’s the Intrinsic Quotient? Developed by Roger Corder, it rewards wines with “healthy” grape tannins - as opposed to wines made from over-ripe grapes or an over-reliance on oak - and penalises wines with high levels of alcohol, sulphites, and sugars.

Tannins come from polyphenols, especially procyanidins (anti-oxidants that many credit with protecting against various illnesses, especially heart disease), so they’re a good thing. Vinopic also argues that, “polyphenol-rich wines generally taste better, complement food, and have much greater potential to evolve.”

What are some of the wines that have high Intrinsic Quotients? Think of (mostly) Old World wines with tannins and you’ll have it figured out:

• Sagrantino di Montefalco
• Chianti
• Aglianico
• Madiran
• Cahors
• Tempranillo

I’d bet that wines made from Mourvèdre and Pinotage could make the list as well.

 

Of course, scoring wines on “good” things like polyphenols, or “bad” things such as alcohol, sulphites, and sugar requires a sophisticated and reliable laboratory.

 

That immediately makes me think of the LCBO and its Quality Assurance department. Every single product that the LCBO sells is tested; the QA department conducts more than 400,000 laboratory tests and tastes more than 5,000 products each year. Learn more through this short video.

 

The LCBO collects this information on the “good” and the “bad” about the wines they sell. So why not share it with the consumer?

 

Yes, they do share some of it now through the online Product Search. Each wine has a “sugar content” rating. They disclose the alcohol content. I’ve even seen sulphite levels disclosed when they’re particularly low. Why not share all the information about all the wines? Other things like Total Acidity, Volatile Acidity, pH, Residual Sugar, Tartrates, Proteins, and Minerals. How about evidence of colouring agents like Mega Purple? Acidification? Chaptalisation? Or pesticide residues and other contaminants?

 

Maybe, in a few years, all of us aging baby boomers will buy wine based on their polyphenols. But we’d all like to know what we’re buying.

 

Wine is one of the few foods that producers don’t have to disclose what they’ve done to produce it. Whether you want polyphenols or not, it should be your choice.  And if a wine has a lot of additives, we should know that too.

 

It’s another opportunity for the LCBO to show innovative leadership. Give consumers (who the LCBO exists to serve, I hope) the information and let them make the choice.

 

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Everything's Coming Up Rosés - 2011 Edition

Summer arrived last week, which means that rosé wine season is in full swing. I’m a traditionalist: like the BBQ, drinking rosé wine is a summer-only thing. You won’t catch me drinking rosé with Thanksgiving turkey. But while summer is here, I drink rosé and lots of it.

Friends ask me what makes a good rosé. My guidelines are simple:

1. Drink Youngest Available. Winemakers don’t make rosés for aging. You want the fresh, clean, vibrant flavours that define a good rosé. In 2011, every label of every bottle that you buy should say 2010. LCBO/Vintages have done a much better job this summer of offering only the most recent vintage. But make sure of the vintage before you buy.
2. Drink Driest Available. This is my personal preference, but dry, crisp rosés are best on hot summer days or warm summer evenings. And they’re a better match with the type of food we eat during the summer: grill, baby, grill.

There’s a wide choice of rosé wines available from LCBO/Vintages. The good news? Although rosé wines may never make anyone’s list of great wines, it’s also difficult to find a bad bottle.  And they're so inexpensive! 

Here are my recommendations:

From LCBO

First up, my favourites from the LCBO. I do prefer Spanish rosés!

France:

LA VIEILLE FERME COTES DU VENTOUX ROSE 2010, #622134; Price: $10.95; 13.5% ABV

Spain:

CHIVITE GRAN FEUDO ROSE 2010; #165845; Price: $11.95; 13.0% ABV

MARQUES DE CACERES ROSADO 2010; #622142; Price: $12.95; 13.5% ABV

TORRES SANGRE DE TORO ROSE 2010; #233437; Price: $11.95; 13.5% ABV

From Vintages:

Many rosé wines that come through Vintages are gone within a week or two. Here are the better rosés (so far) that should still be available at the larger stores.

Spain:

FAUSTINO V TEMPRANILLO ROSADO 2010; #700534; Price: $12.95; 13.0% ABV

MUGA ROSÉ 2010; #603795; Price: $12.95; 13.0% ABV


France:

CHÂTEAU VAL JOANIS TRADITION SYRAH ROSÉ 2010, Rhone; #707281; Price: $14.95; 13.0% ABV

GASSIER SABLES D'AZUR ROSÉ 2010, Provence; #33621; Price: $13.95; 12.8% ABV  After re-tasting this one, I've deleted it from the list.  No fruit, no acidity.  A disappointment.

LA BASTIDE BLANCHE BANDOL ROSÉ 2010, Provence; #71084; Price: $21.95; 13.2% ABV

MAS DES BRESSADES CUVÉE TRADITION ROSÉ 2010, Rhone; #950576; Price: $13.95; 13.5% ABV


Ontario:

FLAT ROCK CELLARS PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2010, VQA; #39974; Price: $16.95; 12.5% ABV

TRUMPOUR'S MILL ROSÉ 2010, VQA; #55046; Price: $14.95; 11.5% ABV


Chile:

EMILIANA ADOBE RESERVA ROSÉ SYRAH 2010; #229690; Price: $11.95; 14.0% ABV; (organic)

MONTES CHERUB ROSÉ SYRAH 2010; #37887; Price: $14.95; 13.5% ABV


New Zealand:

KIM CRAWFORD PANSY! ROSÉ 2010; #650325; Price: $16.95; 13.5% ABV


Australia:

PENLEY ESTATE OVER THE MOON ROSÉ 2010; #684316; Price: $17.95; 14.0% ABV

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François Chartier Talks to Robert Parker

Robert Parker was in Montréal this week.  Parker was in the city to participate in a charity function with tickets at $5,000.

François Chartier, author of Tastebuds and Molecules, snagged some time with Parker and you can find their conversation here.

Like him or not, hero or villain, Parker is the most influential wine critic of the past generation and his opinions are worth listening to, especially on what's changed in 30 years, underappreciated regions, and social media.  (He compares Gary Vaynerchuk to fingernails on a blackboard.  Ouch.)  The audio quality is a bit shaky at times and there are frequent interruptions as other folks say hello to Parker and Chartier.

You get the impression that Parker doesn't know who Chartier is, but when you've spent so long as the Sun King of wine critics, perhaps that's to be expected.

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My Picks: Vintages Release - June 25 2011

This week’s primary theme is Argentina (represented by 9 reds and 4 whites) with the suggestion that you put on a parrillada, an Argentinean grill. I’m a big fan of much of what Argentina has to offer, both wine and food. But only one Argentinean wine, a Malbec, made the cut.

The secondary theme is where you should pay attention. “Pure Elegance” is a selection of 15 white wines with all kinds of goodies. Maybe it’s a matter of timing, with summer arriving this week, but 4 of these zippy acidic wines made it on to my list. Plus 3 more white Varietals that I love...Picpoul, Vernaccia, Verdejo...appear elsewhere in the release.

Nothing organic or Biodynamic this week.

Learn more about how I choose wines at My Picks.

Off the Beaten Track 

Whites

MULDERBOSCH SAUVIGNON BLANC 2010, WO Western Cape (South Africa); #933424; Price: $18.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc (92%) and Semillon (8%) from 3 different vineyards. After harvesting, crushing and pressing, they cold-fermented with selected yeast. Left to age on its lees. No oak. Ideal with grilled veggies.

DOMAINE D'ORFEUILLES 2006, AC Vouvray (France); #223966; Price: $18.95; 12.1% ABV
100% Chenin Blanc. Barrel-fermented with indigenous yeasts. Filtered. If you haven’t tried dry Vouvray (the sweeter version is more famous), then you’re in for a great treat. Try it with grilled tilapia.

DOMAINE DU PIOCH D'OR PICPOUL DE PINET 2009, AC Coteaux de Languedoc (France); #219394; Price: $13.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Picpoul de Pinet, the not well-known but delicious white Varietal from Languedoc. Fermented in stainless steel. It’s the perfect summer wine. Surprisingly crisp acidity. It’s great with grilled seafood and perfect with fresh oysters.

TRAMIN PINOT GRIGIO 2009, DOC Südtirol-Alto Adige (Italy); #627059; Price: $16.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Pinto Grigio from the cool climate of northeast Italy, where they make a good Pinot Grigio. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Clean, refreshing minerality with citrus aromas and flavour. Perfect for sipping on the patio.

TERREDORA 2009, DOCG Fiano di Avellino (Italy); #120048; Price: $18.95; 13.0% ABV
100% Fiano. Fermented in stainless steel tanks and left on its lees for 5 months. Half of it is aged in French oak barrels for six months and then blended with the other half. One of my favourite Italian whites: look for citrus and tree fruit with floral aromas. Made to match with seafood.

SANTA CHIARA 2009, DOCG Vernaccia di San Gimignano (Italy); #231852; Price: $16.95; 13.2% ABV
100% Vernaccia di San Gimignano, which is a cut above the many other Vernaccia grape varieties that can be found in Italy. Hand harvested. Cold maceration, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with cultured yeasts. No oak. Crisp acidity with a typically bitter finish, it’s another wonderful “food wine” to match with grilled white fish or veggies (like asparagus).

PEDRO ESCUDERO FUENTE ELVIRA VERDEJO 2009, DO Rueda (Spain); #218313; Price: $13.95; 12.5% ABV
100% Verdejo. Fermented and aged in stainless steel. Verdejo is not for everyone: known for its herbal and spice aromas up front, with tree fruit and minerality on the palate. Sounds great to me!


Reds

SALENTEIN RESERVE MALBEC 2009, Mendoza (Argentina); #640854; Price: $19.95; 14.5% ABV
100% Malbec. Hand harvested. Cold maceration of whole berries for 5 days in stainless steel tanks, followed by fermentation with cultured yeasts for 10 days. Maceration continued for another 15 days. Gravity fed into new, second and third-use French oak barrels, where Malolactic fermentation took place. Barrel aging for 12 months, followed by bottle aging for 6 months. No fining or filtration, so needs decanting. Perfect match for grilled red meats in any guise.

CHÂTEAU SAINT-ROCH DE LAURENS 2007, AC Faugères (France); #223685; Price: $18.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache (20%), Mourvèdre (10%), and Carignan (10%). Carbonic maceration for 10 days. 70% is aged in new French oak for 12 months. 2007 was a very good year in Languedoc!  Great with BBQ’d ribs.

ABBONA RINALDI 2008, DOC Barbera d'Alba (Italy); #216416; Price: $19.95; 14.2% ABV
100% Barbera. Fermented for 5 days in stainless steel tanks. Aged 4 months in stainless steel tanks, 8 months in 500L oak barrels, followed by 6 months in bottle. Ever tried pizza on the grill? This is the wine for it.

CARLOS SERRES GRAN RESERVA 2001, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #221945; Price: $27.95; 13.3% ABV
A blend of Tempranillo (85%), Graciano (10%), and Mazuelo (5%), all from Rioja Alta. Handpicked. Fermented in stainless steel for 15 days. Aged 36 months in French and American oak, then another 36 months in the bottle before release. Another of my favourites…but more of a winter wine, ideal with braised meats.


Rosé

LA BASTIDE BLANCHE ROSÉ 2010, AC Bandol (France); #71084; Price: $21.95; 13.2% ABV
A blend of Mourvèdre (at least 50%), Cinsault, and Grenache. The Cinsault and Grenache soak on their skins just 24 hours; the Mourvèdre is a dark, tannic grape, so they can press it immediately without maceration. Bandol rivals Tavel as the “best” producer of rosé wine (hence the price premium). But why not treat yourself and try it with grilled fish, or a niçoise salad, or even a bouillabaisse?


Bonus Pick:  It's still the season for celebrations:  weddings, anniversaries, graduations, Canada Day.  If you're looking for a sparkling wine for one of those occasions, why not try this one?  JACKSON TRIGGS ENTOURAGE SILVER SERIES BRUT MÉTHODE CLASSIQUE 2006, VQA Niagara Peninsula; #234161; Price: $22.95; 12.0% ABV

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What You Can Do

Last week, I wrote about the LCBO’s new standard for lightweight bottles that they will implement in 2013.

But do you know there’s something that you can do now to encourage suppliers to use lightweight bottles? It’s easy…buy wines in lightweight bottles!

Now I know what you’re thinking…do I really expect you to stand in the aisle of the LCBO, weighing different bottles, trying to figure out which one weighs the least?

If only there was a list of available wines in lightweight bottles…

There is! Tucked away in the sustainability section on its website, the LCBO has a list of wines that are in lightweight bottles: click here to access the list.  It's pretty much up to date, according to the LCBO.

Not sure why the LCBO doesn’t blow its own horn more on its sustainability efforts. It should feature this list more prominently…or highlight that a wine comes in a lightweight bottle on its website’s “Product Search” feature…but now you know.

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Mercurey Rising?

There’s no doubt that alcohol levels in wine have been rising. But why? Some argue that global warming is to blame. Warmer temperatures mean fully ripe grapes. Fully ripe grapes mean more sugar in the grapes. More sugar in the grapes converts to higher alcohol in the wine during fermentation.

Thanks to Decanter, I recently came across a paper from the American Association of Wine Economists – I bet they have no trouble getting volunteers for field research – that blows a hole in that argument.

Entitled Splendide Mendax: False Label Claims about High and Rising Alcohol Content of Wine, the authors ─ all come from the University of California, Davis except for George Soleas, who is the VP of Quality Assurance and Specialty Services at the LCBO ─ analysed climate data from 1992-2009 and the alcohol levels in over 129,000 samples of wines from around the world.

According to Decanter,

The research indicates, the authors say, that the average alcohol content in wine has increased by 1.12% over 18 years, from a mean of 12.7%...This, they say, is considerably higher than would be expected when set against the heat index, which predicts an average rise of 0.05% in alcohol per year...The study also found discrepancies between alcohol content stated on labels and actual content in bottle. In 57% of the samples, the alcohol level was understated with the worst offending being New World red wine, which averaged 0.45 percentage points [above] the stated level.

Why would that be?

• Winemakers may be chasing the perception that famous critics, and the consumers who follow them, prefer the sensation of higher-alcohol wine.
• Even though consumers prefer the sensation of higher-alcohol wine, they are averse to buying wines with a high level stated on the bottle.
• In some jurisdictions, they tax higher-alcohol wine at a higher rate than lower-alcohol wine. For example, the US federal wine excise tax is higher once a wine passes 14% ABV.

In their conclusion, the authors state,

[W]e have suggested that the substantial, pervasive, systematic errors in the stated alcohol percentage of wine are consistent with a model in which winemakers perceive that consumers demand wine with a [lower] stated alcohol content that is different from the actual alcohol content, and winemakers are willing to err in the direction of providing consumers with what they want. What remains to be resolved is why consumers choose to pay winemakers to lie to them.

Maybe they were drunk at the time?

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Giving Props to the LCBO

Occasionally I give the LCBO, our provincial liquor monopoly, a kick in the pants. Any government-owned monopoly gets many advantages and we should expect it to show leadership across the “Board”.

Last year, I asked what the LCBO was doing to encourage its suppliers to use lighter-weight bottles. Such a move would lower our collective carbon footprint.

When you’re the largest buyer of wine and spirits in the world, you can push suppliers in the right direction. For several years now, Britain’s Tesco (the world’s third largest retailer) has been pushing its wine suppliers to use lighter-weight bottles. Suppliers listen to big retailers. Wal Mart is well-known for “persuading” suppliers to do its bidding, which can work wonders when used in socially responsible causes.

Fair is fair, though. When the LCBO does something right, they deserve a pat on the back.

The good news?

Earlier this month, the LCBO wrote to trade associations to inform them that the LCBO will implement a new lightweight glass bottle standard on January 1, 2013. After that date, all wine bottles priced at less than $15 must weigh no more than 420 grams. Sparkling wines are exempt. The LCBO has also given a partial exemption to “Hock” bottles, those tall bottles that the Germans and Alsatians use. These bottles are limited to 450 grams.

Suppliers of wines sold at more than $15 should expect the standard would affect them eventually. The LCBO says it will give preference to those “premium” suppliers who use lighter-weight bottles.

Although it’s easy to quibble that the implementation period is too long, or that the weight limit should be even lower, let’s give the LCBO a pat on the back for showing leadership in sustainability practices.

Bravo!

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My Picks: Vintages Release -- June 11 2011

This week’s release from Vintages features wines from Veneto, yet another Italian region with it own distinctive grape varieties. Mostly it's Valpolicella in all its glory: Ripasso, Amarone, and Recioto. I can’t get excited about these heavyweights; perhaps it’s the 30-degree weather.

But a couple of lesser-known offerings caught my attention. Bardolino is a light-bodied red that uses the same grapes as Valpolicella, and it’s perfect for lots of summertime fare. There’s also a Soave Classico. Soave wines still suffer from a poor image but wines from the Classico area are generally of better quality. Both the Bardolino and the Soave Classico are less than $14.

No doubt about it.  When summer comes, my mind, and palate, turns to wines that will find a place out on the patio:  something light, refreshing, and crisp...or wines that match up with grilled meats.  That's what, for the most part, you'll find here this week.

Find out more about My Picks.

Organic

EMILIANA NOVAS LIMITED SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON/MERLOT 2008, Maipo Valley (Chile); #685792; Price: $14.95; 14.5% ABV
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (85%) and Merlot (15%). 70% was aged for 12 months in French oak. Certified organic by IMO Switzerland. Fire up the grill and throw on a couple of steaks.

Off the Beaten Track

Whites

DOMAINE CHIROULET TERRES BLANCHES 2009, IGP Cotes de Gascogne (France); #223222; Price: $13.95; 12.5% ABV
A blend of Gros-Manseng (50%) – one of the indigenous varieties of Southwest France and not often seen here – as well as Sauvignon Blanc (25%) and old vine Ugni Blanc (25%), which is most often used in making Cognac. The latter 2 grapes soak on the skins before fermentation, but not the Gros-Manseng. Partially barrel-fermented, partially fermented in stainless steel vats. Aged for 10 months on its lees. A good match with grilled fish and asparagus.

NICOSIA BIANCO 2009, DOC Etna (Sicily); #212928; Price: $13.95; 13.0% ABV
A blend of two indigenous Sicilian grape varieties: Carricante and Catarrato. Both of these varieties offer crisp acidity. Fermented and aged in stainless steel vats. Makes for an easy patio drinking on a lazy summer afternoon, or a match with grilled whitefish.

GIUSEPPE CAMPAGNOLA LE BINE MONTE FOSCARINO 2009, DOC Soave Classico (Italy); #134551; Price: $13.95; 12.5% ABV
This one’s a blend of Garganega (70%) and Trebbiano (30%). Hand harvested. No oak. We used to know Soave for its insipid wines (like so much Pinot Grigio) but quality has improved across the board. Great with grilled seafood.

MARQUÉS DE CÁCERES ANTEA 2009, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #518985; Price: $14.95; 13.5% ABV
A very Riojan blend of Viura and Malvasia. Aged in new oak for a modern twist. Can handle heavier fish (swordfish, tuna) or lobster.


Reds

COLONIA LAS LIEBRES BONARDA 2009, Mendoza (Argentina); #219303; Price: $11.95; 13.5% ABV
Argentina’s Bonarda is a mystery grape. It might be the same Bonarda grown in Italy. That’s what this winemaker says. Or it might be the same grape as Charbono, also found in California. Fermented in stainless steel tanks, followed by Malolactic fermentation. No oak aging. Look for tree and dried fruit flavours with tannins. Try it with grilled lamb…or rabbit.

FALERNIA RESERVA SYRAH 2007, DO Elqui Valley (Chile); #208371; Price: $15.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Syrah from way up north in the Elqui Valley. Thank goodness for that cool Humboldt currant. Hand picked. Cold maceration for 72 hours. Fermentation on the skins in stainless steel tanks. Malolactic fermentation. Half aged in a combination of French and American new oak barrels for 5 months. I feel some ribs coming on.

CHÂTEAU DE CHATELARD CUVÉE LES VIEUX GRANITS FLEURIE 2009, AC Fleurie (France); #207886; Price: $17.95; 13.0% ABV
Fleurie is one of the Beaujolais Cru and if all you know about Beaujolais is Nouveau, you’re in for a big and very pleasant surprise. Hand harvested. Carbonic maceration (fermented in whole bunches with immersion for 12 days in their own juice to extract tannins). Matured on the lees for 8 months. A real summertime treat: chill it and serve with grilled sausages. 2009 is a super year for Beaujolais, so enjoy!

PASQUALE PELISSERO BRICCO SAN GIULIANO 2007, DOCG Barbaresco (Piedmont); #214551; Price: $27.95; 14.0% ABV
100% Nebbiolo, a Varietal I can’t get enough of. Hand picked. Long maceration. Malolactic fermentation. Aged 24 months in oak barrels, smaller barriques and tonneaux, then aged another 6 months in the bottle. Suitable for long aging.

MONTE DEL FRA 2010 DOC Bardolino (Veneto); #134544; Price: $11.95; 12.0% ABV
A mostly-typical regional blend of Corvina (65%), Rondinella (30%), and – a Tuscan surprise – Sangiovese (5%). Cold maceration followed by fermentation on the skins in stainless steel tanks. A wonderful, light, chilled, summertime red! Red wine with fish off the grill? Yes!

BODEGAS HERMANOS LAREDO SENORIO DE LAREDO GRAN RESERVA 1998, DOCa Rioja (Spain); #218347; Price: $25.95; 13.5% ABV
A blend of Tempranillo (80%), Graciano (10%), and Mazuelo (10% -- it’s what the Riojans call Carignan). Long maceration. Aged for 24 months, alternating between French oak and American oak casks, then 3 years in the bottle. A classic treat. I’m putting in away for the winter.


Rosé

WINZERGENOSSENSCHAFT KÖNIGSCHAFFHAUSEN PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2010; QbA Baden (Germany); #168237; Price: $11.95; 11.8% ABV
This one’s here for all those folks who lived and worked, and partied, in the Black Forest. Ah, the memories! Perfect with grilled chicken, a salad, and fries.


Bonus Pick
I'm a fan of Randall Grahm of Boony Doon.  One of his wines is out this week.  A bit over our usual price ceiling, but if you're in a mood to splurge, give it a look:

BONNY DOON VINEYARD LE CIGARE VOLANT 2006, California; #975847; Price: $39.95; 13.5% ABV

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Slapping Back the Cognac

I’m always on the lookout for good writing, new or old, about wine or food. One of the recommended classics is In Search of a Perfect Meal, a collection of articles written by Roy Andries de Groot. Baron de Groot died in 1983 (a suicide) at the age of 73, so his writing belongs to another era. Many of the places and people about which he wrote have passed from the scene, even though at the time of his writing, some of these places and people were the forerunners of nouvelle cuisine. His appreciation for food and wine, perhaps heightened by his blindness, is evident in his writing as is his respect for (most of) the people he meets.

His article on How to Get a Great Meal in a Great Restaurant is unintentionally hilarious: Phone the restaurant and, pretending to be your own personal assistant (use a different voice), make a reservation, inventing an impressive title so that the restaurant will think you’re a VIP. It goes on from there, but you spend your entire meal being someone you’re not. Unless, of course, you actually are a VIP with a personal assistant.

His advice on tasting cognac (learned from cognac makers) is, however, very helpful and very different from wine tasting:

You pour not more than half an ounce into a four-ounce chimney glass [a standard INAO wine tasting glass], stick your nose into the glass, and breathe in slowly....You then take the tiniest sip – no more than a fairly large drop – which you slap with your tongue onto the roof of your mouth, then immediately spit out the excess liquid. Swallow, then open your mouth and breathe through it, slowly steadily, deeply.

I tried out this technique on the weekend with a glass of one of M. Remy Martin’s cognacs and, darn, it works! Well, except for spitting out the excess… Next time that you’re tasting cognac, or grappa, try it.

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